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Discussion Starter #1
I dont know how to ask anything but start a new discussion since " the change" or it seems to get splattered all over the page x 10, but that is that I guess.
Anyhow nothing is perfect and Im a perfect example of that but my pet-peeve on these L & LI's and such is the lame hood on them especially where it attaches in the front by the PTO. I tightened mine a little or so I thought to help a rattle/shaking I have and the thing just buckled! Looks like crap now.
I know now why everyone said stuff like " dont worry about the looks of it" because no matter what you do as soon as you put it back together and fire it up in 5 minutes it looks like someone took a maddock to it with the wrench knocking paint off of this and putting this and that lever on or a ratchet hitting whatever.
But that hood is a drag, man I worked hard on that thing but I do think they should have come up with something to reenforce the end of it or something as opposed to just a cut-off piece of what seems like 30 or 24 gauge sheet metal, aint much more than a piece of duct work.
Oh well I guess I can wish in one hand and crap in the other and see wich one fills up first like my Grandpa used to say.
Im a bit angry cause I cant post the video I made of it running, its on this computer but when I try to post it it dissapears
 

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Gravely needed a proper nylon flange bushing setup for the hood pivots in my opinion. But where I get my hood rattle is on the other end by the tank. The rubber bumpers seem to be inadequate.

Wait until the paint burns off your new pepper pot muffler. Then you'll be peeved.

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Gravelys rattle. They just do.

Re hood hinges, I always stick a washer in there to act as a pivot. The washer is heavier than the hood material, so I can tighten the bolts as much as I want, and the hood still pivots freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Gravelys rattle. They just do.

Re hood hinges, I always stick a washer in there to act as a pivot. The washer is heavier than the hood material, so I can tighten the bolts as much as I want, and the hood still pivots freely.
Thanks both of you for the replies. I have some large (1" or so) rubber grommets that I thot I put on there but guess I didnt and I have all kinds of big washers to so I guess I'll have to reinstall it again.
And to PA RedRider those top bumpers dont seem to work no matter what I do and they are new but look nothing like what came on it but I saved the old presumeably stock ones and may put em back on but they are hard now and may be useless, 50+ yr. old rubber aint what it is today Im sure.
But what was really shaking was my right handle bar but the brackets that hang on the fuel tank and bolt to side of fan shroud came loose so I put them back on and am yet to try it because I wanna fix or tighten everything I can before starting it again because drill starting is not the way to go so I gotta do it as less as possible.
pic #1- my muffler after 5 mins of running two times, is this normal so soon? Its just the center of it.
Pic #2- left side of hood that buckled after tightening
Pic # 3 & 4- Right side, what left side used to look like before tightening. And it was tightened also.
 

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Gravely1964
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washer or lock washer between handle bar and casting. That will fit threw hood opening. They just rattle there a long stroke single cylinder. Just par for the course. also why I think you see alot with out hoods lol
 

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pic #1- my muffler after 5 mins of running two times, is this normal so soon? Its just the center of it.
Pic #2- left side of hood that buckled after tightening
Pic # 3 & 4- Right side, what left side used to look like before tightening. And it was tightened also.
Muffler looks fine. Once you've run it a little more the heat will remove the rest of that paint for you :) I don't know why they even bother to paint the things.

The hood looks like you have no spacers in there. If you tighten down the bolt on the bottom of the bar, it will lock the hood in place until you move it and distort the end like that. You need a washer on each side. Per steve, put a 3/8 flat or lock washer on each side. That will allow you to torque down the bolt while leaving the hood free to pivot.

Don't worry about the rattling. That means it's running correctly :)
 

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Hood? What hood? Never had one, don't see it being necessary. Might keep the weather off it a little bit if it's parked outside all the time, but mine is not. Take it off, problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I guess I could be using the wrong word, its not a actual "rattle" Im talking about and if I could post my video that I made of it running it would let yall know exactly what Im trying to convey. Actually my right handle bar is shaking side to side like crazy prolly 2" back and forth and the L.H. side doesnt do it.
I didnt wanna start it back up w/drill again till I had all the little things I could find tightened up or snugged and like I said the other day I dont guess I had the looped looking fittings that attach to the fan shroud to the fuel tank bands tightened up for some reason prolly because I had to beat the tank in the shroud with a rubber hammer and into the bands cause man that was some fit, Im sure there is a trick to it that you guys know but I sure dont.
But I'll post the pics again so you will know what I had to reinstall and I hope it took it out, and hopefully someone can say something like "yea that could have caused the h-bar to shake like that".
But the two nuts washers and bolts all hit the ground and I used red thread locker when putting them back on just incase they rattled loose but both at the same time? I doubt it so I prolly just loosened them to get the surrounding stuff on and didnt tighten them back up.
#-1 nuts & bolts that hit the concrete
#-2 L.H. carb side
#-3 R.H. muffler side
24 hr. dry time on thread locker lol
 

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They just vibrate. There's a boatload of low-frequency vibration coming off the engine. Anything part of or attached to the machine will be exposed to it.

The handlebars are particularly susceptible to resonating with all that vibrational energy around. You've got a section of steel pipe about 5 feet long, supported in the middle and one end, but not at the other end. Of course it's going to resonate.

Quick test: Start it up and let it idle. Watch one or another bar doing this crazy dance. Slowly add throttle to increase the RPMs. Watch the ends of the handlebars change the way they resonate with the throttle, and both behave differently. When up at a couple thousand RPM, see the bars mostly stop their high amplitude bouncing, and just sit there jittering a little. Those are classic symptoms of resonance.

Re your tank bands and the mounting brackets which hold them to the shroud: You shouldn't have to beat on anything. The easy way to assemble that whole works is
1. Bolt the brackets to the shroud, but don't tighten them down.
2. Put a long (2" or more) bolt through the eye end of each bracket, and the ends of the tank bands.
3. Locate the tank under the top edge of the shroud. You can hold it in place with a scrap of rope or a big rubber band. It will probably just stay there if the whole assembly is upside down on your bench.
4. With the long bolts loose, rotate each of the tank bands over the end of the tank and the edge on the shroud.
5. Jigger the tank around so that the fuel filler opening is centered in the hole in the shroud.
6. Tighten the long bolts which go through the ends of the tank bands.
7. Tighten the short bolts which hold the brackets to the shroud.

If you care, once you get the long bolts more or less tightened down, you can swap them for short bolts, by putting a clamp on the flat parts of the tank band, backing the long bolt out, and putting a short one in its place. But you only do that after you're done horsing around with the alignment.

I always recommend lock washers or shakeproof nuts in vibration areas. Thread locker is fine, but IMHO a mechanical solution works better for high vibration, esp when there's heat involved.
 

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The hood helps keep weeds and bushes form tugging around on your spark plug wire when bush hogging, but I took mine off long ago and never looked back. I have OCD with oil pressure, so I want to readily see the gauge while I'm working it. I also think should run cooler without the shroud, but that's probably just my imagination.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The hood helps keep weeds and bushes form tugging around on your spark plug wire when bush hogging, but I took mine off long ago and never looked back.
Yea Im sure they are on there for a reason but I just wish it attached them better at the front of them.
Every day I get on here and try for an hour to post a video of that thing running but I just cant bring it up to post it. I just watched it again but it wont post, drivin me nuts
 

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I just cant bring it up to post it. I just watched it again but it wont post, drivin me nuts
Stick it on youtube and post the link
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Stick it on youtube and post the link
Dont know how to do that either, never have. Its just a 45 second video of it running and it sounds good and you can see the h-bar shaking.
I have texted it to two people and it works that way.
I wish a moderator would give me a number to text it to and then they can post it on here.
 

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Dont know how to do that either, never have.
It's very easy. Got to youtube.com. Look in upper right corner, you'll see an icon of a camera with a plus sign in it. Click that and it will ask you to upload your video.

If you've never used youtube before it will probably ask you to create a username and password.

Once you've uploaded, your video will show up in "My videos", and you can copy/paste the link in here.
 

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If you want to see an old L shake, run a sickle bar mower in front of it. You have to "catch" the handlebars to hold onto them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's very easy. Got to youtube.com. Look in upper right corner, you'll see an icon of a camera with a plus sign in it. Click that and it will ask you to upload your video.

If you've never used youtube before it will probably ask you to create a username and password.

Once you've uploaded, your video will show up in "My videos", and you can copy/paste the link in here.
I'll give it a try now.
Man that didnt work at all. I clicked on the camera with the plus sign and all kinds of crap came on there including some Asian guy telling about a month long transition to the new way and bla bla bla. Guess Im gonna just forget about it. I made another one today that was 2 mins + long so I could show how its smoking a bit from where head and gasket meet but I could never read that stupid torque wrench I bought, I dont like any of this new crap thats around anymore. I remember a torque wrench that was simple and it had a thin rod down the center of it that went to a dial of an affair and you saw how tight you was tightening something, and the price for some of them? Sheew.
Well I just tightened the head down as evenly as I could but does anyone think it might not be tight enough? Twenty lbs. aint much is it?
Those videos has me wanting to chew nails, they are on my phone, on my computer but if I try to post them anywhere they dont even come up. Even the new ones from today are on here and I have the # of them written down to.
I texted my son and told him it runs and sent him the video by text and now I wish I wouldnt have said anything because its apparently far from actually running enuf to do anything with it.
Oh well is has to get better I guess.
 

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I have to say, there are plenty of times when the new-fangled torque wrenches that click so you can feel when it reaches a specific torque value is very useful, as there are lots of spots where it would suck to try to get enough light at just the right spot to be able to read where that needle is, or where I have to apply a large torque value where it would be difficult to both apply the torque and read the needle position at the same time (for example, the pitman arm nut on my truck is like 280 ft/lbs or so, at an odd angle, with the rest of the steering gear getting in the way).

And you have be exactly perpendicular to the pin to read it's position accurately, as there's parallax error if you are off to one side or the other of the pin when reading it...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have to say, there are plenty of times when the new-fangled torque wrenches that click so you can feel when it reaches a specific torque value is very useful, as there are lots of spots where it would suck to try to get enough light at just the right spot to be able to read where that needle is, or where I have to apply a large torque value where it would be difficult to both apply the torque and read the needle position at the same time (for example, the pitman arm nut on my truck is like 280 ft/lbs or so, at an odd angle, with the rest of the steering gear getting in the way).

And you have be exactly perpendicular to the pin to read it's position accurately, as there's parallax error if you are off to one side or the other of the pin when reading it...
I understand that Dave but the problem I had was the inch-pounds, I can do the math or someone confirmed it with me and the marks to set the wrench on are no more than a mili-meter away from each other and I had it adjusted where it was supposed to go and started to tighten it and I kept turning and turning and nothing happened and Im thinking "20 lbs.? Im about to snap this bolt in half and I sure dont want to do the easy-out stuff, something isnt right here cause it feels more like 200 lbs."
Am I wrong or is 20 lbs of torque not really very much at all? I guess I can go get a different T-wrench but like $50 to use once in my life probably, just spent $120 on a 1/2 drill to start it and I havent worked since march 23 rd.
The wrench was just so ..I hate to say but complicated. I have a pic on here somewhere I'll try to show you what I mean.
Take care
 
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