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My JD 314 has the same or similar sundstrand hydro in it as your Cub. Mine looked just like that. It was an "O" ring leaking where the fan shaft comes out of the housing. Clean everything up good and run it a little and see if that area comes up wet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My JD 314 has the same or similar sundstrand hydro in it as your Cub. Mine looked just like that. It was an "O" ring leaking where the fan shaft comes out of the housing. Clean everything up good and run it a little and see if that area comes up wet.
The one without the mark wiped through it is the one that is leaking. Out through that hole on top. I am guessing a releif of some sort?
 

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Must be one of the "O" rings in that valve assembly. I think there are 3 different ones in there. I would take it out and clean it first to see if that helps. Be careful as there is a spring under the plug for a relief valve.
 

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Gunk it off and get it absolutely clean before taking anything apart or you'll have a lot bigger problem than a leak.
 

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GANG GREEN GIZMOW KILLER!
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Over on WFM there is a thread about rebuilding these valves. Two O-rings and a check ball/spring IIRC.
 

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Is it possible that the gunge is acting as insulation, causing overheating, necessitating pressure relief? If so, could simple de-gunge-ing solve or ease the problem? And if so, it might be easier to just keep it clean rather than do brain surgery?

ditto on what gburnett said - clean it first before opening - once spec of dirt can trash the whole thing. filters for these things have a 23 micron specification.

just my .02
 

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The steps, in order:
1. Steam clean or pressure wash the entire transaxle. The clogged up fins are restricting the cooling of your hydraulic oil.
2. When the outside is clean(and NOT before), unscrew the hex cap that you have marked in the picture above. You should find a spring and ball under it, which act as a pressure relief valve for a circuit in the hydro. You should also find that there are one or two o-rings around that cap. Match them and replace them.

3. Re-assemble.
 

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GANG GREEN GIZMOW KILLER!
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What Steevo said.



Theres also reason to rebuild these further, but I forget what the symptoms were regarding this. Taht step requires grinding off a swedged crimp which allows you to poen the internals and replace them. Then you need to tack weld the cap back on to hold the new guts in.


Sorry I cant be more clear on this. I looked for the thread and cant find it cause the other sites search function sucks worse than most.:banghead3


Clean it real good, pop the valve out and try replacing the O-Rimg and see what happens. If this works.......10min fix for about .50c, if not you didnt loose much.

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Same problem on my 1811 rebuilt the whole thing, drove it 10 minutes and it was leaking again. I ordered one from lJ fluid power, the cheapest i could find at 57 bucks. Phone for LJ fluid power- 269-623-4150. Good luck, hope your rebuild works. Part number 9500085
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Same problem on my 1811 rebuilt the whole thing, drove it 10 minutes and it was leaking again. I ordered one from lJ fluid power, the cheapest i could find at 57 bucks. Phone for LJ fluid power- 269-623-4150. Good luck, hope your rebuild works. Part number 9500085
Thought i had it fixed but it started leaking again so i ordered one from there. Question i have is why are they half the cost?
 
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