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More Liberty, Less Tyrany
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Discussion Starter #1
I've been thinking about some of the things around the house that I could do a better job with if I had hydraulics on my tractor.

My L130 has only 132 hours on it. The new K66 I installed has about 20 hours and I love it. I've added some of the concrete wheel weights and now I don't have to use the push mower any more.

Using the plow this winter was a pain fighting with the arm and clasp to raise and adjust the blade. If I could just move levers.

We have lots of garden beds that need mulching and emptying a truck bed with a shovel is getting harder every year. With a Johnny bucket or equivalent I have all the much I need delivered, dropped and I could scoop, drop, and spread with the rake. I also have a large tree area that I want to fill with white rock so I only have to mess with weeds and not constantly have to mow and trim around the trees. I could also scoop snow if necessary. After last years 72" of snow here (Almost unheard of) I'll probably never see the need but the 'Boy Scout" in me...

I was looking under the mower this morning and to me it looks like I could.

Mount an offset pulley to the top of the K66 shaft above the fan.

Add the hydraulic pump in the cavity in front of the K66 toward the right side with a tension pulley to keep the belt tight.

Find a set of JD control valve and levers and fab up a bracket/box for it.

I'd have be careful plumbing the lines forward and be mindful of the muffler as it mounts below the motor.

There is another thread here where a pump was added to an LA series mower, mounted off the vertical shaft of the engine but I don't want to go that route because it would require more precise welding and balancing to add a pulley there.

I don't see where the additional pulley on top of the K66 would add additional stress to the shaft to make it harmful.

I'd have no problems making the brackets and plumbing it up. I'm a fair fabricator.

I could replace the L130 and locate GT. I.E. 21x 31x or x3/5 series but I've grown fond of the L130 and I've grown used to the foot pedals. I've got less than $1000 in it all, mower, K66, blade and weights. I'd spend a lot more for another tractor.

The frame should hold up for what I want to do, I don't use ground engaging equipment with this tractor and I expect a max of 500 lbs of whatever will go in the front bucket I am thinking of making but that is another project entirely.

I've already made a good brace out of box tube for the front axle and will add bearings to the front wheels, up from the bushings so that shouldn't be an issue.

This is probably going to be a winter project. I should have the Model A Ford I'm restoring about done so I need something else to get me into the shop.

I've thought about this hard and weighted the options, I haven't gone mad.. I think it will work out well.

What have I overlooked?
 

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the front axle won't hold up to it for long if you work it hard. maybe if you use a small bucket and light loads, but not large loads of 500# plus the bucket and ramming dirt/gravel piles. my L130 has never had any additional weight on the front and has broken 2 spindles, 1 steering arm, the entire steering gears, and 2 front axles, all from riding on a trailer and going across rough ground. adding that much weight in front will result in similar issues.

i would find an older GT of some kind with at least 1" front spindles and a better front axle.
 

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More Liberty, Less Tyrany
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Discussion Starter #3
the front axle won't hold up to it for long if you work it hard. maybe if you use a small bucket and light loads, but not large loads of 500# plus the bucket and ramming dirt/gravel piles. my L130 has never had any additional weight on the front and has broken 2 spindles, 1 steering arm, the entire steering gears, and 2 front axles, all from riding on a trailer and going across rough ground. adding that much weight in front will result in similar issues.

i would find an older GT of some kind with at least 1" front spindles and a better front axle.
Well aware of the front axle problems. I've made a 'spine' with box tubing that runs along the bottom that is bolted on and should be OK.
If I break irt then it'll be $6,000,000 man time.. :thThumbsU.
If I build my bucket based on an old snow plow and purposely make it no larger than a Johnny bucket Jr (if I could find the measurements) I doubt that I could get a scoop of rock or wet mulch to be over 500 lbs. I'd never expect to work with that kind of a load with this.

I've been wrong before but If I keep just the 2 suitcase and wheel weights I have, about 180lbs plus the 200lbs of me I'm sure I would be fine to help gauge the load. But again it would go back to the strenght of the front axle and I'm adjusting for that added stress now. I may have to rework my theories in the event of failure.
 

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I am interested: Did you get any further on this project? How did the hook up for the Hydraulic Pump work out?
 

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More Liberty, Less Tyrany
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Discussion Starter #5
I am interested: Did you get any further on this project? How did the hook up for the Hydraulic Pump work out?
Alas with 3.5 hours of commuting each day, a father-in-law who lives with us with Alzheimers, 2 acres of yard, a restoration of a 1929 Model A Ford, and all the other things that go into my life this hasn't made it past the idea stages yet.

I've now got the deck off and the blade on for the winter so maybe I can get some time to do some measurements to start mocking it up.
 

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i am sure i have seen a post here with pictures of a guy who put a tiny fel on a 115 or 120, he had a chain sprocket just under the engine driving a pump , he also built a airconditioned cab if i remember correctly, i also saw a picture of a version of the same loader with the electric actuators somewhere, i got the impression it started electric and was modified to hydraulics.

Pat S.
 

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More Liberty, Less Tyrany
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Discussion Starter #7
i am sure i have seen a post here with pictures of a guy who put a tiny fel on a 115 or 120, he had a chain sprocket just under the engine driving a pump , he also built a airconditioned cab if i remember correctly, i also saw a picture of a version of the same loader with the electric actuators somewhere, i got the impression it started electric and was modified to hydraulics.

Pat S.
It has been done and there are pics here where the pump was driven off the engine shaft.

I was looking at the feasibility of driving the pump via V-belt off the shaft of the top of the K66 transaxle. There is enough space for the pump under the pan in front of the transaxle. In learning more I'll need to find room for a reservoir, cooler, lines, and ways to mount the controls. The more I learn about how this would all come together I may find that its more than I have time for and is it worth it.
 

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IMHO If you can restore a Model A Ford, you can restore a 318 or such.
A much better use of you talents, which you seem to have, and time ( once again IMHO)
The ideal tractor is a used X500 series it already is set up to take all that you outlined.:sorry1: and probably wrong :banghead3
 

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I've been thinking about some of the things around the house that I could do a better job with if I had hydraulics on my tractor.

My L130 has only 132 hours on it. The new K66 I installed has about 20 hours and I love it. I've added some of the concrete wheel weights and now I don't have to use the push mower any more.

Using the plow this winter was a pain fighting with the arm and clasp to raise and adjust the blade. If I could just move levers.

We have lots of garden beds that need mulching and emptying a truck bed with a shovel is getting harder every year. With a Johnny bucket or equivalent I have all the much I need delivered, dropped and I could scoop, drop, and spread with the rake. I also have a large tree area that I want to fill with white rock so I only have to mess with weeds and not constantly have to mow and trim around the trees. I could also scoop snow if necessary. After last years 72" of snow here (Almost unheard of) I'll probably never see the need but the 'Boy Scout" in me...

I was looking under the mower this morning and to me it looks like I could.

Mount an offset pulley to the top of the K66 shaft above the fan.

Add the hydraulic pump in the cavity in front of the K66 toward the right side with a tension pulley to keep the belt tight.

Find a set of JD control valve and levers and fab up a bracket/box for it.

I'd have be careful plumbing the lines forward and be mindful of the muffler as it mounts below the motor.

There is another thread here where a pump was added to an LA series mower, mounted off the vertical shaft of the engine but I don't want to go that route because it would require more precise welding and balancing to add a pulley there.

I don't see where the additional pulley on top of the K66 would add additional stress to the shaft to make it harmful.

I'd have no problems making the brackets and plumbing it up. I'm a fair fabricator.

I could replace the L130 and locate GT. I.E. 21x 31x or x3/5 series but I've grown fond of the L130 and I've grown used to the foot pedals. I've got less than $1000 in it all, mower, K66, blade and weights. I'd spend a lot more for another tractor.

The frame should hold up for what I want to do, I don't use ground engaging equipment with this tractor and I expect a max of 500 lbs of whatever will go in the front bucket I am thinking of making but that is another project entirely.

I've already made a good brace out of box tube for the front axle and will add bearings to the front wheels, up from the bushings so that shouldn't be an issue.

This is probably going to be a winter project. I should have the Model A Ford I'm restoring about done so I need something else to get me into the shop.

I've thought about this hard and weighted the options, I haven't gone mad.. I think it will work out well.

What have I overlooked?
Besides the things you mentioned, you will need to find space to add a hydraulic reservoir.
 

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i think you would be better off getting a heavier duty tractor. just my opinion but why engineer and push the L130 to do things that will cause failures in the machine when you could just pick up a machine that was biult to handle all that you need?

not trying to spoil fun because i love tinkering with my 316 too. just my opinion, take it for what its worth.
 

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You might want to use some G110 parts whatever you do:

- front spindles. They are hardened on the G110

- bolt-on rear frame reinfocements. They will keep that stronger trans from cracking out the L130 tranny mounting flanges.
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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Hi enginetech,

If banjoman did the K66 upgrade as wally2q suggested, then he already has the reinforcement brackets in place, but a good idea to mention it.

I see the replacement spindles for the L100 series now uses the G110 part. I'm assuming the old part numbers are no longer available?

If banjomans spindles are still in good shape and not like mine at 150 hours:



then I might suggest going with the ball bearing upgrades. It was part number AM127304 when I did the swap. The four bearing replace the four bushings in the front wheels. Oh, that picture was taken BEFORE I used the L120 with the JB Jr, snowblower, etc. Since I replaced the bushings with the bearings, the fronts have show no wear issues and have put up with the above mentioned attachments without a problem.
 
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