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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been working on my Ford 3000 (gas) and I need to change out the fuel lines. How they wrap around the motor and back drives me crazy. I noticed a fuel pump at the auto store for $40 and I am thiniking of getting it and putting it between the tank and carb a straight shot. Has anyone else done this? I would just plug the in and out lines on the regular fuel pump and leave it. Unless it absolutely had to come out.
I am in the process of a thorough tune up. I am cleaning and painting as I go. Somebody had painted over dirt, grease and whatever.
:thanku:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks
 

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Running through the OEM pump sets you up for the possibility of pumping fuel into the crankcase should the OEM diaphragm leak, but without fuel pressure against the diaphragm the spring (which was regulating fuel pressure) will have the pump working non stop & cause an early failure. Seems to me that the best alternative is to either bypass the OEM pump & put a block-off plate in its place, or to remove the spring &/or the arm to save the wear on the cam & OEM pump. There were some low pressure electric pumps which were originally used on Vegas (go ahead & sneer) which we used to replace the OEM on Corvairs (yeah, sneer again) that only produced around 5.5 psi. On the 'Vairs we'd take the guts out of a failed pump & epoxy the extraneous holes shut & remove the valves so the OEM pump became non-functional, but still looked original & served as a junction block for the three fuel lines. That worked beautifully!
 

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If you choose an electric pump make sure it is for Carbs not Fuel Injection. A pump for Fuel Injection would require a regulator but a Carb version should not.
 

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The OEM system has worked on these tractors for YEARS, adding a pump is just adding additional problems.
 

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JohnW, I like original too, but only when it works with current conditions. Does anyone know of a source of fuel pumps, or pump rebuild kits compatible with the ethanol laced gas that we have to use today (unless we can get Avgas, or racing fuel)? I have given up on fighting 'progress'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I decided to stay with the original pump. I added a small inline pressure gauge right above the pump. I can't see it while driving, but its there to look at while tuning and tweaking. It reads 4 lbs of pressure. The gauge was $10 or $15 at the auto store.
 
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