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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 70's IH856D that I bought a couple years back it's got a cozy cab and a koyker K5 loader on it, rubber is almost new on the back and one of the front tires is new, the other has lots of tread on it but has some deep scars from getting cut by stuff.

My tasks that I complete with the tractor are
snow blowing (8ft two stage 540RPM PTO)
Round Bale moving (roughly 1200-1350lb each)

I also have a hole auger
and will be buying a rotary mower for the field trim work.

Locally there is a tractor sales place that has a few tractors, I called him to see if they'd be interested in trading
http://mitchellstractors.com/about.html

The ones I'm looking at are the
460 Gas
560 Diesel
706 Gas

I've been told that the 656's hydros are good tractors but he said the one he has needs the pump rebuilt and that he's going to be taking it off the website until he can get it repaired by a shop

My goal is to get the smallest tractor that will still perform the functions listed above. The reasons for wanting to 'downgrade' is that the 856 weighs several tons more then I need and when I drive it in the spring/summer/fall (whenever the ground isn't frozen) it trenches the yard, the rear tires are liquid filled and they have weights hung from them. Also the axle stub shafts are hard to see from inside the cab and the break off lots of my wooden fence posts during the course of a winter. And my 856 has only a 1000rpm pto (that currently doesn't work, I'll start a thread for that later).

So thoughts suggestions? Any idea what would be a reasonable trade given the options above? My 856 is no beauty queen and half of the tins aren't on it (I have them but not on it)

Thanks in advance,
-ron
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I've seen y'all in action on another thread where a guy asked for advice on a potential purchase of a Case-Ingersol 4016 I know that y'all know your stuff. So what additional information do you need/want from me to help me with this?

Serial numbers?
photos (I'll be getting these when I go to check out the tractors)
engine sizes
transmission type on the tractor?
Is any of them easier or harder to get parts for?

I realize that any of these tractors will fit the bill just fine. My CoOp E4 worked just fine, just a little light in the rearend but this was before I bought a snowblower. I'd be willing to bet that if I built a 3pt for it and moved the wheel weight to the other side it would work perfectly for me (again)

Maybe it would help if I told you what I'm trying to avoid.

With the 856d
I've gelled it up twice (but I know how to avoid that now so this is a non-issue)
The axles stick out too wide and I break off 3-7 wooden fence posts per year
The cab prevents me from
1. seeing the axles and their proxity to things
2. being able to park it inside so that I can work on it in the heated shop
The weight of the 856D is atrocious. FWIW it's got liquid filled rear tires and wheel weights. If I keep it I will be asking about the best way of removing the liquid and weights. I will hang a snowblower off the rear for times that I need weight.

Limited hydraulic connections
Right now there are 2 levers in the cab. One has to be pressed forward at all times to keep fluid running to the triple hydraulic levers that are used for operating the loader. The other lever raises and lowers the aftermarket 3pt. I would prefer that the loader be hooked up to a full pressure hydraulic port (and I think this can be done on the 856D by either finding the correct end plate adapter or having the neighbor build me one, which is how I'll have to go if I keep the 856d)

And lastly the PTO
I need a 540 for my implements and currently I have only a 1000. I have already located a dual 540/1000 for $500 so again if I keep the 856 it will get an 'upgrade'.

so I am looking for
better visibility off the sides of the seat
lower profile so it fits inside
more hydraulic options
less weight

Must have 3pt
external hydraulics
drawbar (my 856d does not have one of these)

thoughts, concerns, opinions?
Thanks,
-ron
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just got my yearly call from the hay delivery guy.. 14 round bales later this is what my IHC856D looks like


I have a lot of the tins in a pile in my shop, I just never got around to putting them on, when I bought it they were off. The rust colored patches on the loader are 'reinforcements' from the previous owner. I asked a couple times what he was doing that caused such damage and his only response was "I don't remember". If I keep it this fall I will be taking off all the random pieces and making symetrical patch panels for the right and left hand sides of the loader whether it needs them or not, with rounded corners and I'm still debating 'speed holes' (would mean more fabrications and welding). I guess that will depend on what the metal looks like under the patches.

-ron
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Funny thing.. I have been purposefully running it out of fuel all summer so I can reseal the gas (fuel) tank. Every winter when I get busy pushy snow it jostles more chunks lose, so this year I planned on resealing it, putting in a new fuel sending unit and drain bung/shutoff valve. So today I get home with 5 gallons of fuel, I planned in starting it and letting it idle while I dumped the new fuel in. And the darned thing ran out of gas 20 seconds after starting it! The bad news is that I had to bleed the whole fuel system, but the good news is that I know how to do that AND I now know there is less then 5 gallons in the tank so when I get around to repairing that tank later this summer/fall I don't have to worry about having too much in it.

The first time I ever had a 'blockage' in the fuel system a chunk of 'foreign material' (same thing as scat) got lodged in the fuel bung/shut off valve and I had to drain almost 20 gallons of fuel to determine the cause of the issue and fix it, that sucked and was not a very good initiation to the world of diesels.

The other cab door is sitting in my trees gathering cobwebs, the frame is cracked and I find that I get hotter inside the cab then I would without it, and on days like today (90°f and 69% humidity) it is down right miserable in there even with the push out windows open.

-ron
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's a pic of the 706 (diesel) with rotary mower that I used a couple weeks ago to mow the grass around the outside of my shelter belt

(I tried to link to a thumbnail and I hope that works, if not I'll fix it later)


This 706 is a nice tractor, hold the glow plug button for a while with the key on and it will fire right up, I used it for the very first time this spring to test out one of my 8ft snowblowers. It worked great, the 8spd trans (plus DA) was perfect for finding just the right speed for backing into the heavy drifts and when i say 'heavy' I mean they were over 4ft high and compacted so much that this 250lb guy could walk on them without fear of falling through. The downside is that the factory 3pt (on this tractor) does not work very well, when you move the lever to raise/lower the implement it takes forever to go up (it drops like a stone) and either I wasn't using it right, or the factory 3pt lower links are very 'floppy'. They extended to hook up to the blower but the never seemed like they 'locked' back into place afterward. (My guess is user error). And both tie rods are shot, in need of replacement.

-ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The compare function wouldn't let me just straight compare these

460
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/3/3/334-international-harvester-460.html
560
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/3/4/340-international-harvester-560.html
656
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/3/4/346-international-harvester-656.html
706
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/3/5/353-international-harvester-706.html
856
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/3/6/360-international-harvester-856.html

When I get some more time it looks like I'll be able to mark a couple of these off my list..
the 46 and 560 for example appear to require a PTO mounted hydraulic pump for use with implements.

the 706 is rated at about 67hp (PTO) (the 856 is 95hp)

Weights are close enough that it doesn't matter
(856) Weight: 10290 to 12035 pounds
(706) Weight: 8100 to 10710 pounds

It is starting to look like the only real tractor of interest on there might be the 656 (I would like the hydrostatic for blowing snow) and *maybe* the 706 if I can get some extras thrown in..plus I might just need to hold out until we get a real barn built, eventually I am going to buy something new(er) that is fully hydrostatic with AWD ROPS and as physically small as possible while still being able to move round bales. But then again the wife says if we have a 'real barn', then we will start feeding more square bales in the barn so moving round bales might be a moot point by then...

Still hoping for some reviews from the driver's seats.

-ron
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It appears that Imy photos didn't link properly and that I also cannot edit my old posts, so

My 856d after bale unloading yesterday


My neighbors 706d after mowing around my shelterbelt

-ron
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another thread that can be considered 'dead'. I decided to keep the 856. After reviewing the options I just don't think it is worth the trading headaches at this time, mine isn't perfect but I know how to deal with it when it throws a tantrum.

In the next 5 years or so we will be building a new barn for the horses. At that time we will quit feeding round bales and feed squares exclusively (for reduced wastage and less cleanup in the Spring). When we do finally get a barn I am going to be moving to a new(er) tractor. I've called around and between the Bobcat, Case, or Kubota I'm looking at 25-36k (minus whatever I get for trade or sell my 856 outright). I'm not opposed to looking at used it will be completely dependent on what is available at the time and how I feel about the payments.

thanks for reading,
-ron
 
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