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I've been noticing over the past few weeks that I was loosing reverse on my 3225. I remember the "good old days" when reverse was quick and the tractor would bounce when I let go of the pedal. (Some call it jousting.) Now, with the pedal mashed to the floor, the wheels would barely move. Forward seemed OK. If I pulled UP on the forward pedal, it would zip backwards... Hmmm...

So I got into it and found that the plastic flanges on the reverse pedal shaft and the plastic flanges on the linkage between the forward and reverse pedals were shot. In reality, there was a lot of slop in the reverse pedal motion, but I hadn't really noticed. Three of the four flanges were worn completely through.

I cost me about $12 plus shipping to get the four flanges and about 30 minutes to replace it all. You'll need to take off the reverse pedal (14mm wrench) and then pull three cotter pins. Pretty easy job!

The flanges are parts #41 and #42 in this diagram.
Specifically, I needed 2 of 941-3073 (replaces 741-3073) and 2 of 741-3074.

Now it's all like "new". The linkages are tight. There's no slop in the pedal shafts and the tractor is "frisky" again!

I know I've seen similar inquiries about how to speed up reverse and the suggestion made is usually to adjust the linkage between the forward and reverse pedals. However, it may also be worth looking at the flanges and for "slop" in the reverse pedal mechanism. This sure worked for me!
 

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10K and Climbin!
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Nice job Steve.. Those plastic bushings are also on the 21** series cubs and are the weak links which causes the tranny linkage travel to reduce when the parts wear.

Good thing they're replaceable! Some engineer was thinking ahead huh? (See- they aren't all bad!:fing32:) Mine were shot too.. I just swapped a couple around to get the travel more acceptable. Replacement will be in the future for all of them though.

We should make a 'sticky' thread about this? How bout it Mods?
 

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Nice! I found after searching through the previous maintenance records of my Cub that those same flanges had been replaced at a very early age on my 2186. I give all the pivot flanges a shot of fluid once in a while to make sure they don't wear prematurely. Even so, I still consider them a wear item. They're plastic :( Would be nice if someday I could fab up some greaseable bearings there, eh? :)
 

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So I got into it and found that the plastic flanges on the reverse pedal shaft and the plastic flanges on the linkage between the forward and reverse pedals were shot. In reality, there was a lot of slop in the reverse pedal motion, but I hadn't really noticed. Three of the four flanges were worn completely through.
Seriously? Mine are GONE. No wonder. I never knew there was supposed to be something there.
 

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Good job Steve :fing32:
A little maintenance now and then keeps these tractors running like new.
DMAC
P.S. The nylon flange bearing on the lift links can also give us trouble, they can overlap themselves and bind reducing hyd. performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Good job Steve :fing32:
A little maintenance now and then keeps these tractors running like new.
DMAC
P.S. The nylon flange bearing on the lift links can also give us trouble, they can overlap themselves and bind reducing hyd. performance.
You know I'm in total agreement with you... These are terrific tractors. For those of us that don't take it to the dealer for an annual checkup, it would be nice(r) if we had a list of the "common" maintenance items not described in the owner's manual!

As for the nylon hydro flange bearings, I presume that you're talking about the white ones on the spool valves. Yeh, I can see how they could bind and limit the return of the lift levers. The good news for me is that I haven't seen them for a while. For the first time since owning this tractor, I haven't had to rebuild the hydraulics in a year!! HOOT!!
 

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Hoot Man! (It's a Scottish thing)
As we post these items on maintaining our 3000 we are making a list for those who need the info. :trink39:
It only takes my son 15 mins to strip the 3000 down to this

He says 25 mins if I help (more than lifting the fender off, floor pan assembly)
Open it up and keep it clean. It will run for decades, no debris on the hydro, retaining heat for example.
DMAC
 

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I was surprised at how easily the floor and fender pans came off my 2186 as well. I agree - a good thorough cleaning and inspection once a year in this manner can go a long way!
 

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Hoot Man! (It's a Scottish thing)
As we post these items on maintaining our 3000 we are making a list for those who need the info. :trink39:
It only takes my son 15 mins to strip the 3000 down to this

He says 25 mins if I help (more than lifting the fender off, floor pan assembly)
Open it up and keep it clean. It will run for decades, no debris on the hydro, retaining heat for example.
DMAC
Love those 3000's - look at the real frame they put on that tractor. I just might fix it so one follows me home some day.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11


Here are belated pics of worn (through) flanges.
 

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Thanks for the pics! It's nice they're replaceable, but would be nice to have an actual bearing in there, wouldn't it?
 

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Here are belated pics of worn (through) flanges.
Good info, thanks thunderbirl. I just picked up a Cub and noticed that reverse is a little slow. I'll be checking tomorrow to see if I'm having the same problem.
 

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On your 2550, the reverse pedal linkage does have similar bushings. Also, you can adjust the reverse easily on those models as well. PM me if you need any info :)
 

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On your 2550, the reverse pedal linkage does have similar bushings. Also, you can adjust the reverse easily on those models as well. PM me if you need any info :)
Thanks for the info Justin! I'm going to take a look at it either tomorrow or Wednesday. If I have any questions I'll be sure to shoot you a pm! :fing32:
 

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Shop = My Therapy
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I picked up a 3235 this winter that needs some TLC and it has the same issue of being really slow in reverse. I bet when I check mine, I will find the same thing. Thanks for the post. Man, MTF saves me headaches!
 

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I've always been unhappy about the speed of reverse on my tractor. This summer I noticed additional slowness and some "stickiness" to the reverse pedal, so I figured while I was getting my tractor ready for winter I'd replace the reverse pedal bushings. Here's what I found:



Not bad...not bad at all really. So why am I having this trouble? Could this be it?



See how there is a slight bend to the linkage arm? Here's another shot...



A question for anyone that has done this maintenance, do you remember seeing a slight bend in your linkage? It's easy enough to straighten, but I wont if it's not necessary. I'll replace the bushings anyway, since it's all apart and the one is grooved.
 

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Shop = My Therapy
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That is interesting. I bet that has a lot to do with them wearing out quicker. I've been going to take mine apart and replace them as my reverse is terrible too. I may try to tear apart in the next couple days to see if mine is bent. If I were you - I would bend mine straight.
 

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In the Ozone
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I've always been unhappy about the speed of reverse on my tractor. This summer I noticed additional slowness and some "stickiness" to the reverse pedal, so I figured while I was getting my tractor ready for winter I'd replace the reverse pedal bushings. Here's what I found:



Not bad...not bad at all really. So why am I having this trouble? Could this be it?



See how there is a slight bend to the linkage arm? Here's another shot...



A question for anyone that has done this maintenance, do you remember seeing a slight bend in your linkage? It's easy enough to straighten, but I wont if it's not necessary. I'll replace the bushings anyway, since it's all apart and the one is grooved.

I welded in a fillet on the inside of the bends because of cracking in that part of the linkage.

Also, does anyone have the specs on these bushings? I would like to make mine out of delrin or a teflon material. They would still wear but certainly not as quickly as the nylon does!
 

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Thank You for this thread.I was having the same slow rev problem (3235) as noted above.So this last weekend i did the replacement.After Getting into it i had very little wear and had by doubts this would work for me.I was very happy that it did work :fing32::bananapow

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Cub Cadet 3235
Cub Cadet 2165
Cub Cadet Super 1882
Cub Cadet Super 1872
Cub IH 123
 
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