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Master Cranker!!!
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Love this thread. Looks like a long journey and a lotta hard work made for a beautiful house. Keep the updates coming!
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #322
Love this thread. Looks like a long journey and a lotta hard work made for a beautiful house. Keep the updates coming!
Thanks, Ellis. It has been an interesting journey.
Touches today include builder out swinging the small bathroom door, TP and towel dispensers I swear times 30, procurement of mailbox, house numbers, sanded countertop in laundry room, and builder putting up this REALLY cool barn wood wall.
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #323
Tonight saw the partial exhumation of the forgotten mechanical room sump crock and installation of the stripper pole. I’ll suck the rest of the sand out some time after it dries. It’s 99.99% out of there. I filled a five gallon bucket with sand like 7 times with the spoils! It isn’t a leech basin unfortunately, but it has drain tile exits!
One more forgotten crock in the walk in closet. Dunno if we’ll get to that one anytime soon or not. It’s really just there in case of catastrophic plumbing failure more than high water. It’s connected to the other crock via drain tile.
 

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Thanks, Ellis. It has been an interesting journey.
Touches today include builder out swinging the small bathroom door, TP and towel dispensers I swear times 30, procurement of mailbox, house numbers, sanded countertop in laundry room, and builder putting up this REALLY cool barn wood wall.
Your starting to see shiplap on the wall behind bed headboards in bedrooms.
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #325
Last few weeks have seen lots of little stuff.
Attic access installed in the garage.
All closet wire shelving finished.
All garage lights hung.
All gutter drain extensions buried.
Garage drain extension buried.
Leaves at folks’ house and a few in our backyard.
Mirrors tomorrow.

The current project is hanging the sliding door on the living room closet. This is a roughly 100+ year old Amish sliding barn door, 4’ wide and about 7’ tall. The rollers and track are all original ad far as I was told. Kind of looks like maybe they could be, so I guess that could be.
I had to free up the rollers, which really wasn’t any big deal... penetration oil and patience mostly, then rinsed with simple green and applied silicone spray for lube.
I completely stripped the track of all probably 6-7 layers of red/white/black paint with Zip Strip and finished with wire wheel. Clear coated the results and it looks awesome.

The beam was cut from the same stock as the railing, and is lag bolted to the studs in 3 places with 3/8” lags because that’s what I had. The track is then lag bolted to the beam, and THROUGH the beam into the studs at both ends and one in the middle with 5/16” lags. That sucker is over engineered and STOUT, on par with many other things in this place.
Tomorrow I’ll pick up a tube of liquid nails and laminate a piece of 1/4” or 3/8” piece of plywood, because the elements have really taken their toll on this door, so it’s a bit flimsy. I’m going to leave the door itself au natural because I think it looks cool, and it might disintegrate if I hit it with the power wash it.
Last I’ll rig up a side shield to the left side wall to hide the gap, and mount some spacers behind it to keep it from banging into the wall.
 

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Minding my P's & Q's
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Nice looking door.
Love the detail in the upper left corner. I think those are called an "Oppsy Shim". I wouldn't change a thing.
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #327
There we go!

Need a couple finishing touches such as stops, swing control (to keep it from swinging in and out at the bottom), an extension for the top of the door and a vertical valence to close the gap between the door and wall so it looks like it’s in a full frame.
 

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not quins. but sextuplets
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There we go!

Need a couple finishing touches such as stops, swing control (to keep it from swinging in and out at the bottom), an extension for the top of the door and a vertical valence to close the gap between the door and wall so it looks like it’s in a full frame.
did u get weather problems.. we has thunder/snow today with lighting..
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #331
Did you get your seed and straw down before winter sets in?
I’m thinking an actual lawn will be down the road a bit. I still need more topsoil, UG sprinkling, and border/stones around the house and under the deck and stuff.
Pretty much we just smeared the topsoil we had stripped off, but it’s pretty sandy stuff so I’ll need more decent stuff for over the top of it.
I’m still not sure what to do with the rain gutter drains, either. Probably little faux culvert exits around them.
 
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I’m thinking an actual lawn will be down the road a bit. I still need more topsoil, UG sprinkling, and border/stones around the house and under the deck and stuff.
Pretty much we just smeared the topsoil we had stripped off, but it’s pretty sandy stuff so I’ll need more decent stuff for over the top of it.
I’m still not sure what to do with the rain gutter drains, either. Probably little faux culvert exits around them.
Well the gutter drains are draining away from the house. I have nine downspouts that drain underground and go out about 30 or more feet away from the house. They are shallow so when it rains the water comes out unto the surface of the grass and spreads over the yard. At the ends of mine there's a green plastic drainage emitter that pops up and discharges the water onto the grass. Water pressure forces it to open and let the water out. Home Depot sells them for about $15 each.
green-matte-nds-pop-up-emitters-422g-64_1000.jpg
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #334
I can see advantages and disadvantages of the pop ups...
I’ve HEARD that they can clog with pine needles and leaves. They will also by design retain water in the pipe and thus freeze. I suppose that can be overcome with a short piece of drain tile between the pipe and emitter, though.
We’re high enough on a steep enough hill that I was able to simply daylight the end of the pipe, so theoretically the pipe will completely drain, and any debris in them can wash out.
However, I can still add the pop ups if I do so choose at some point.
 

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Minding my P's & Q's
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I’m still not sure what to do with the rain gutter drains, either. Probably little faux culvert exits around them.
It would be more work to do what I did. But the rumor is you work pretty cheap.
I have a pretty heavy clay soil here. So this is what I did.

I had a slight hill to run my drain tile down. Used cloth covered slotted drain tile. At the end of each run I dug a 24" deep x 18" wide x 4' long trench.
Cut the drain tile about 3' short of the trench and installed a tee. Ran tile from the tee up to grade and capped with a 8" square green colored drain grate.

Extended drain tile from the tee into the trench. Lined the trench with landscape cloth, with enough left at the top to cover the top.
Filled the trench with 3/4" crushed and round rock to about 6" from the top.
Folded the cloth over, from both sides, to cover the top of the rock.
Filled the top with top soil to grade.

From the trench back to the Tee I also used landscape cloth, and packed tile in pea gravel, folded over the cloth on the top. Then top soil to grade. Did the same with the drain tile all the way back to the 3" PVC I used to go the first 3 or 4 feet under ground.

I used a lot of high grade, thick, landscape cloth to keep dirt from filtering in and filling the space between the rock in the end drain trench, and filing the drain tile.

Trench can hold a lot of rain water. But if it fills and backs up the line, water will over flow out the drain grate before it ever reaches back to where down spout enters. Drain grate is at grade so can mow right over it.

In my set up the drain grate is about 5' lower than the bottom of the downspout. Drain tile lines are about a foot deep.
I have 3 lines like that. 4th one I did not make a drain grate. But made the trench about 8 feet long and filled with rock. 3 other downspouts I just let drain out on a hill side under the deck.

Remember to take a lot of pictures with the lines and the buildings in them for reference. And draw a map measuring off the building and any trees to your tile. Could save a lot of digging if you need to find them later. Like when you want to add under ground sprinkler system.

Just looked through all my pictures. None show the drain trench and overflow grate.

Hint: Can pound pipe or rods in ground at points you want to find later and rent a cheap metal detector to find them.

I would put the drains in before you do any retaining walls. The PVC pipe can run under them, and the wall built right over them.
2440661
2440662
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #336
While I might not duplicate that exactly, I might take a few pages from it, and add some style of my own. I like the idea of stone & trenches, but I need the end of the pipe open. I COULD make a hollow spot around the end of the pipe, and cover it with a man hole or hand hole cover, as i’m Employed by a company that makes composite infrastructure products. Every now and then we get scrap that goes to the landfill. Maybe a couple more covers and frames will follow me home...
 

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Minding my P's & Q's
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Out of curiosity, why open ends?
I had though about that too, for clean out if needed. But decided I would be getting too many critters going inside the pipe. Figured I would be getting too many mouse nests inside.

Are you thinking along the lines of ended it in something like an underground sprinkler control box and cover?
 

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Professional Homeowner
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Discussion Starter #338
Out of curiosity, why open ends?
I had though about that too, for clean out if needed. But decided I would be getting too many critters going inside the pipe. Figured I would be getting too many mouse nests inside.

Are you thinking along the lines of ended it in something like an underground sprinkler control box and cover?
Mostly for cleanout, yes.
As far as critters, I actually expect some intrusion, but i’m Not concerned about it. Ever hear the song Itsy Bitsy Spider? I picture something like that. If I ever see a chipmunk or red squirrel go in one, I’ll cap it and gas ‘em with the mower exhaust.
Yes, something like a sprinkler box possibly, so I can easily remove any washed out debris.
 

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close enuff works for me
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In michigan the ground will freeze 3 feet deep ,,any drain pipe will have to be open and drain completely dry. If there is any standing water it will freeze solid ,plugging the pipe with ice ,and splitting the pipe as the ice expands.
 
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