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The 4X8 Is Finnaly Almost Done (PICS)

2045 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  89YT12
Ok I know I been posting up the little fix its here and there but now finnaly on the home stretch

New rear "bumper" piece
New 3/4 Marine Floor
6 1,000 tie downs
New 2500LB (total) springs
New 2500LB hubs
New 5.70 - 8 Load Range "D" Tires/Wheels
New Jack
Old Tire as a spare
Fliped axle to lower
Made a rise on the tongue to it would tow level
New Coupler
New Clear LED Lights
New Wires

All thats left is to build some different sides ..... Any Suggestions??
Also waiting on the spare tire cover to come in
















Even got some of the storage tire covers like for the motorhome but to fit the trailer, save them from the sun

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Looks nice! I run load range D tires in the same size on one of my trailers, too. No worrying about if they are overloaded.

If it were me, I think I'd trim down the bolts holding the coupler onto the tongue. I can feel my shins bleed just looking at them.
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Looks nice! I run load range D tires in the same size on one of my trailers, too. No worrying about if they are overloaded.

If it were me, I think I'd trim down the bolts holding the coupler onto the tongue. I can feel my shins bleed just looking at them.
I'm glad u thought of that before I hit the bolts one day

Any thoughts on how to make or modify my sides on the trailer
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Looks good to me.The only thing I would is use four short bolts on the coupler.I put a new on my trailer and it would twist on me everytime i drove around a corner and would have a heck of a time geting it off the ball.So I put the four bolts on and no more foul words on hooking.Just a thought.
Since your locking it onto your truck I would suggest a lock for the spare also.
Very nice looking trailer.
I am assuming you painted it also ? Can I ask what you used to paint it ?

I will be painting my trailer in the spring and I plan on using Rust-O-leum professional enamel with hardener. I have used the same paint in the spray can form before but it was not as hard as I wanted it to be and got scratched easily.

I just finished painting the ramps for it in the garage using the brush on type paint with a little hardener added. It seems to be much harder but also much glossier than the spray can version.

On all the sides I have built for trailers I have used pressure treated wood. I have been using the 1x treated wood instead of the decking. It is usually plenty strong and it is about 40% lighter. I will through bolt into the 2x4 that sits in the stake pockets. I use carriage bolts that I hammer in so they seat and nylock nuts on the outside. That way it never comes loose and it will last until the wood rots out eventually.

On a side note I did notice that you have the 3 light marker light on the rear. I doubt you will ever have any problems with it, but they are actually reserved to indicate that a trailer is over 80" wide.
You may get in trouble with a wide trailer that is missing the lights, but I don't think anyone will complain about it being on one that does not need it.
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Alan~

I used the spray bomb bed liner

On the sides I been thinking about having 1 foot up solid, and then another foot up to a top rail but then weight is a issue, its hard enough to remove the sides by myself as it is

Yea I know the 3 id bar is over 80", but I had it laying around for the boat trailer, but it would of been the only "clear lense" lights on it, so I just stuck it on lil tyke ..... I know they would never say anthing about it, if they did say OK crawl under and snip the wire ....... then they would prob write me up for 3 out of service lights :biglaugh:
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Two other small things I noticed - sorry if I'm nitpicking.

You have rubber valve stems in the rims. They're only rated for 60 psi, so if you want to run the tire pressure higher than that you'll need to replace them with metal bolt-in style stems. I used them on mine and they are easy to install.

If it were me, I'd flip your safety chain hooks over where they attach to the receiver. Now, they are bouncing against the safety latches but if you hook them from the bottom up rather than the top down they will ride on the closed side of the hook and be less likely to pop off if the latch were to fail.

What are you looking for as far as different sides? Solid, lower than you have now, or something else?
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Two other small things I noticed - sorry if I'm nitpicking.

You have rubber valve stems in the rims. They're only rated for 60 psi, so if you want to run the tire pressure higher than that you'll need to replace them with metal bolt-in style stems. I used them on mine and they are easy to install.

If it were me, I'd flip your safety chain hooks over where they attach to the receiver. Now, they are bouncing against the safety latches but if you hook them from the bottom up rather than the top down they will ride on the closed side of the hook and be less likely to pop off if the latch were to fail.

What are you looking for as far as different sides? Solid, lower than you have now, or something else?
oh I know about the rubber stems ......... i was like :dunno: when they came in and had rubber ones in it, so I got a set of metal ones, need to put them on ...... But Im glad you pointed it out, more people need to know about it!!!

IDK why I hooked up the chains that way on that hitch up :banghead3

And dont worry about nitpicking, thats why I post up get all opinions and ideas or thoughts

As for the sides you must of been writing as I replyed to Alan but look on my post to him about the sides
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Looks good to me.The only thing I would is use four short bolts on the coupler.I put a new on my trailer and it would twist on me everytime i drove around a corner and would have a heck of a time geting it off the ball.So I put the four bolts on and no more foul words on hooking.Just a thought.
Hmmmm I have never had a issue like that, are you talking about adding 2 more bolts, maybe post up a pic of your set up please so I can see where you are comming from

:thanku:

Since your locking it onto your truck I would suggest a lock for the spare also.
Its not the "locking" Im worried about, its something to assure the latch does not pop up ........ altho its locked at my house, I was thinking of welding an eye to the tire rack and then running a cable lock through the eye and wheel. But locks only stop honnest people from stealing stuff, Ill probably add that to my list one day when I need a project
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