My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
just thought I'd share some info as people here have been helpful to me , 1st tip: as a temporary repair i needed a carb bowl 'O' ring asap but could not find one in town so i bought "self forming stem repair-tef valve packing" at home depot for $3.00,put it in place of 'O'ring and worked flawless with not one leak at bowl to carb connection !
2nd tip: had a hydrostatic trans axle slipping problem (on my riding mower)so i removed the old fluid and replaced with 10W30 oil and so far has been working without any problems (this will not work with all transmissions depending on the potential problem with individual units).
3rd tip: had a 5.5 OHV engine that was very hard to pull start so i removed the OHV cover and found the round plastic cam gear where the lobes are attached (for I/T & E/H) had worn down (the lobes are what had rounded)so i replaced the cam gear in about 10 minutes and starts very easy now.
hope this info may help someone.............I'm not an expert,just wanted to share what worked for me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
630 Posts
Expert or not, it's always nice to share tips and tricks. That's what makes this such a great site.
Thanks Daytona!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
21,320 Posts
Those are some great tips! Thanks for sharing. Never know when a person might have to pull one of those tips out and use it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter #4

·
Certified Technician
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
Here is one.

a foot of recoil rope down the plug hole will make a good makeshift piston stop for clutch, flywheel nut removal/installation.

Cutting hardwood to use in a smoker but dont want to get any tainted flavor from your guide bar oil in the saw? Use vegetable oil.

On briggs opposed twin engines, they are known for their ability to go through starters and being hard to crank sometimes, common problem is excess carbon on the piston and heads, raising compression, remove and scrape or do a seafoam application, fixes it nearly every time.
 

·
Jack of All Trades
Joined
·
1,337 Posts
Cutting hardwood to use in a smoker but dont want to get any tainted flavor from your guide bar oil in the saw? Use vegetable oil.
Best one I ever heard!! I smoke with nothing but orange wood or occasionally apple wood. Always have to use the small stuff that I can cut to size in either my miter or table saw. You can bet I will clean out and dedicate a chain saw to vegetable oil from now on!!!
 

·
15,000 +posts!
Joined
·
20,689 Posts
I've made temporary carb bowl gaskets for Tecumsehs out of the insulation on a peice of #14 wire,I put some Permatex #2 hardening gasket sealer where the end of the insulation meets each other--also used "Valvelon" teflon valve packing too,with good results..once ata friends shop,I was fixing a mower someone left there and I found an oil filter in his drain bucket happened to have a gasket that fit with a little stretching,so I could get it to run awhile and see if it was worth buying a carb kit for--it worked great,and I never did buy a kit for the carb..

One day I busted the rope in my tractors recoil starter,and had none to replace it with that was strong enough--regular nylon solid braided rope didn't last but a few pulls,then snapped again...disgusted,I sat there dreading the thougts of having to shovel the snow,rather than plow it...

Then I remembered an old REO engine I had on a reel mower,that used wire rope,instead of nylon...and I had a spool of it hanging on my wall,that I'd used to repair the cables on my overhead garage door...I figured I had nothing to lose,so I tried it!--it worked excellent,with one exception..you just cant tie a knot in that stuff,and expect it to hold...an the resulting large knot rubbed against the flywheel,and didn't work too great in the rubber handle end either....but I dug through my old parts heaps and drawers,and found two "cable stops" that were from my old air cooled VW Beetles heater box control cables--they slid right on,and were small enough not to rub against the flywheel...
Eventually the wire rope busted the plastic rope sheave pulley though--but if I had a metal one I'd have the steel cable on it still...

A friend of mine used to use parachute cord on his mower engines recoils--but he was in the national gaurd and had access to it...its very strong..someone else suggested using synthetic wich rope instead,I haven't seen any for sale though locally..

One old engine I had came with no air cleaner...couldn't find the correct one anywhere,so I decided to make one--I bought a cheap "Cal-Custom" air cleaner at an auto parts store that fits a 2 bbl carb that was the perfect sized filter,all I had to do was fab up a custom "base" to bolt it to the smaller carb throat..

I went to Lowes and bought a round electrical outlet box cover--for 99 cents!,that couldn't have fit better if I made it myself--all I had to do was knock out the "hole" in the center of it,and drill two holes to bolt it to the carb!..and it looked cool too,as well as being fully functional...the air cleaner was about 10 bucks..
 

·
Jack of All Trades
Joined
·
1,337 Posts
I have had a couple machines in from one particular customer that had replaced the rope with trimmer line. Got them through the day!
 

·
Certified Technician
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
The best is shoestring for a recoil rope...

The best non-recoil one has to be 14ga electrical wire on a trimmer spool...not kidding.
 

·
15,000 +posts!
Joined
·
20,689 Posts
I tried using a peice of old bycycle brake cable wire on my string trimmer once--it worked,but threw sparks all over,ended up starting a fire in some dry grass!...copper wire is too soft,and the right nylon "string" actually works better than metal does!..

One day I was scraping paint off my garage that was all flaky,and soon tired of doing it--it took too long,my arm was sore...I looked at my weed whacker,and though--hmm,what if a 6" wire brush would fit where the spool goes??..

About ten minutes later,I had it mounted and working...got my goggles on,and soon had the whole endwall buffed almost to bare wood!...:D...then I thought about using a n old circular saw blade on it to cut brush---that wasn't quite as sucessfull,but it did a great job of removing the grass growing out of the cracks in my driveway...when I was done,the blade was about 2" in diameter!...ooops!..:rolleyes:

I've done a lot of "temporary" Sunday afternoon repairs to get my lawn mowed on my only afternoon off in past years...some worked so well I never did fix them "right"...others nearly got me killed,or set something on fire--like the day I decided to put a gas tank off a weedwhaker on my chain saw by duct taping ot to the handle--I only wanted to cut a few logs and knew it would take all afternoon to clean the gas tank built into the saw...it worked great,unti l Iturned the saw sideways a bit,and some fuel trickled out of the vent hole in the gas cap!...WHOOOF!..I was lucky the garden hose was close by,or I'd no longer have that saw!..:eek:

I've used 3/16" brake line tubing to splice a busted choke or throttle cable conduit back together so I could finish mowing...you do what you got to do on a Sunday,when all the mower shops are closed up...here if you need a part after noon on a Saturday,your boned until Monday morning ,maybe longer if they had to order something!..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
3rd tip: had a 5.5 OHV engine that was very hard to pull start so i removed the OHV cover and found the round plastic cam gear where the lobes are attached (for I/T & E/H) had worn down (the lobes are what had rounded)so i replaced the cam gear in about 10 minutes and starts very easy now.
hope this info may help someone.............I'm not an expert,just wanted to share what worked for me.

3rd tip on the cam, was this a briggs horizontal intek? I have one that has great lobes (at least they appear to be correct in shape) but is hard to start and down on power. I'm wondering what your cam looked like...also do you know the model # of the engine?
 

·
Certified Technician
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
3rd tip on the cam, was this a briggs horizontal intek? I have one that has great lobes (at least they appear to be correct in shape) but is hard to start and down on power. I'm wondering what your cam looked like...also do you know the model # of the engine?
Hard to pull over, or takes alot of pulls?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Red,

Its the 6.5 intek I can't make run right, takes lots of pulls. I can hear it come off of decompression after it stuggles to get the rpms above 800 or whatever it is set to. Then then it builds power.

I think I have the lift specs-

Mag-Side Journal .499 in. (12.67 mm) .498 in. (12.65 mm)
PTO-Side Journal .499 in. (12.67 mm) .498 in. (12.65 mm)

Intake Lobes 1.112 in. (28.24 mm) 1.098 in. (27.29 mm)
Exhaust Lobes 1.112 in. (28.24 mm) 1.098 in. (27.29 mm)

For instance (taking one side of the tolerances) the net lift for the intake side is 1.09-.49 = 0.6 inches....is that right ? I'm thinking the base cirlce of the cam has the same radius as the cam journal. This could be wrong...!

I plan to measure the older intek's lift this week and post the #'s anyway. The rocker arm ratio looks to be ~1:1. I (for some reason!) refuse the temptation to tear into the 'new' one I just bought to replace it, to compare various aspects. It runs so nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
Have an Onan on a suburban that is hard to start/starter dragging? Remove the blower shroud and using a half inch wrench loosen the starter mounting bolts and push the starter towards the block then tighten the bolts back up. The starter gets pushed away from the ring gear over time and it cannot engage properly.

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
[QUOTE} A friend of mine used to use parachute cord on his mower engines recoils--but he was in the national gaurd and had access to it...its very strong..[/QUOTE]


You can still get the cord you have to go to a Army sure plus store to get it if you have any around were you are at. a buddy of mine has a 100ft roll of it he uses for various things and that stuff is strong
 

·
Certified Technician
Joined
·
8,420 Posts
I dont know right off what the exact life numbers are for the 6.5 Intek, but I wouldnt expect more than .225" @ the valves. The Briggs Animal 5 race engine, which is based off the Intek, gets .255" at the valves.

But anyways, basically you set the throttle to say, 1/2 full, flip it to full choke...pull the rope and it takes say 5 pulls for it to catch. you open the choke and it labors to rev up?

Almost sounds like a partially sheared flywheel key, or a burnt valve...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,661 Posts
This should fit in here, been looking for grease caps for the front spindles, SIL brought home some kind of rubber cap that fit perfict, but only found one. After positng pictures in the "what is it" section it was determined to be a furnature leg bumper, After a quick..... well leasurely stroll through Home Depot I found these. They do the trick to keep the grease in, hope they don't look too cheesy.
Tight fit, and only $2.98 for the pair.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
On the little B&S push mower engines - the bolt holding the top housing on
(just above the sparkplug) - you know, the one that works loose and tears out the hole at the edge of the sheet metal. Easy fix is a fender washer about the size of a quarter with 1/4 inch center hole.

Position the washer over the housing aligned on the original hole, and clamp with a pair of vice grips. Drill a 1/8 inch hole in the edge of the washer at the 3 o'clock position and pop rivet it from the inside. Move the vice grips and drill and pop rivet at the 9 o'clock position, then one at the 12. Takes as long to describe as it does to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Almost sounds like a partially sheared flywheel key, or a burnt valve...
Do Inteks have two magnets attached to the flywheel for inducing a spark (like a double or long duration spark event) ? This engine broke the PTO side snout off the crank, but the (new) crank is (therefore) not twisted and is keyed into the flywheel in normal fashion.

BTW, when you get a new crank from Briggs, it comes with the key for the timing gear, along with the new gear, and a new flywheel hold down nut, but not a new flywheel key. Also, have to reuse the shim up against the timing gear to maintain lateral side to side clearance. I'm thinking I might have big time retarded timing, possible though only if I'm down to one flywheel magnet versus two ??

Since you can get to the inside of this engine in record time (tilt it over on its side, remove 8 10mm bolts, careful with the crankcase (PTO side) cover gasket, and you are there (leave the oil in). I even thought about jumping the timing one tooth between the crank and cam gear, but more realistically, the original tree limb impact event broke off one of the (two ?) magnets on the flywheel.

On the valves, I thought when I had the head off to maybe fill the combustion chamber with alcohol and see through the ports whether the fluid would leak across the seat-valve interfaces, but the seats and valves looked so good, I didn't suspect them and test that way.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top