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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this GT for quite a few years now and was never happy with the cutting height. It cuts too low. I adjusted the deck to the highest it will go which is a hair before rubbing the frame. Last year I had 1/2 acre of KBG sod installed and I want to make sure I do it right this time. In prior years in the heat of the summer I always felt the lawn was burning since it is cut too short and I'm not about to go through that again after spending this much on sod. This spring I've already noticed that I cut on Tuesday and then today (Saturday) and it grew so much and feel I'm taking too much off and would like the option to raise the deck a bit. I'm mulching and with a lower deck, grass really growing fast, etc. it's been a nightmare keeping the underside clean, not to mention the clumps left behind. So, I'm thinking it's possible to get taller tires to fit on these wheels and was wondering if anyone has done it and if there are any clearance issues. Also, what exactly would I be looking for? Same size except taller? What about front vs back? Just increase both by the same height? I still want a turf tire as I'm just using for grass. Any help would be appreciated.

Currently:
Rear: 23x10.5x12
Front: 16.5x6.5x8
 

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look at the tires you have on their right now, and see how close they come to the deck and frame/fenders, that'll tell you how much bigger you can go. Check the clearance for the fronts with the wheels from lock to lock...
 

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I modified a fabricated deck on a 52XLS so it raises about an inch higher. You have to cut approximately an inch of metal from the deck mount towers so it clears the frame. Before and after pics shown below.
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I measured and marked, then used a reciprocating saw to cut. I painted afterwards.
This mod doesn't affect durability. I also do this to the stamped 54" decks.
 

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I have this GT for quite a few years now and was never happy with the cutting height. It cuts too low. I adjusted the deck to the highest it will go which is a hair before rubbing the frame. Last year I had 1/2 acre of KBG sod installed and I want to make sure I do it right this time. In prior years in the heat of the summer I always felt the lawn was burning since it is cut too short and I'm not about to go through that again after spending this much on sod. This spring I've already noticed that I cut on Tuesday and then today (Saturday) and it grew so much and feel I'm taking too much off and would like the option to raise the deck a bit. I'm mulching and with a lower deck, grass really growing fast, etc. it's been a nightmare keeping the underside clean, not to mention the clumps left behind. So, I'm thinking it's possible to get taller tires to fit on these wheels and was wondering if anyone has done it and if there are any clearance issues. Also, what exactly would I be looking for? Same size except taller? What about front vs back? Just increase both by the same height? I still want a turf tire as I'm just using for grass. Any help would be appreciated.

Currently:
Rear: 23x10.5x12
Front: 16.5x6.5x8
rpoitras, The suggestion from B440 makes sense. Raisng the dack will be better than raising th whole mower with larger wheels. I also have a GTH24 series Husqvarna and have experienced your problem. The max cut height is too low. But also, the ground speed is really fast. Larger tires will increase the effective gear ratio and increase the ground speed (if they will fit). I actually had to buy a John-Deere for Mrs. to use here after one season with the Husky. Small wheel Husky would get stuck on slopes the JD mows with ease. I took the Husqvarna to the boat dock property which is flat and it does fine there, but when the grass is thick and the summer is hot I still wish it would cut higher. As one reply on my Husqvarna forum post said, "Husqvarna wants you to have short grass".
 

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I put 18x8.5-8 and 24x10-12s on my Cub XT3 for the same reasons--cut too low for my rough fields. I did some careful measuring before ordering tires. The factory 23x10.5-12s actually measured 21.75" tall so the 24-10-12 ATV tires were actually 2" taller for a 1" overall height increase.

I'm extremely happy with the result. It made a huge difference in reducing hitting rocks and scalping and it rides smoother as well. Also doesn't get stuck like it used too hanging up on the deck.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow, all great replies. Thanks, guys!

So I hadn't really looked in too much detail what exactly was hitting between the deck and frame because I stupidly/blindly assumed it was just going to be... everything. If I can gain an inch by cutting away a bit I'd have no problem going that route, so thanks @B440 !! You have no problem raising the front to the typical 1/8" - 1/4" lower than the back with this method?

Seriously, all great replies. If for whatever reason I can't notch the deck then at least I know it IS possible to install larger tires as long as there is clearance, which I believe there is. Looks like they get quite a penny for these small tires but at this point I don't care I just need a little bit more height available.

Thanks, all, I really appreciate the help.
 

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On my Craftsman, I shortened the stops that the deck snugged up against in the highest position not so much to raise the cutting height but rather to raise the carry height when driving over rough terrain. In the carry position, the deck pulleys touch the linkage rod for the brake and the belt angle might be too much to engage the PTO.

I have is no clearance for larger tires either front or rear so the only option would be to install spacers between the frame and the hydro. All that is moot now since I no longer mow with the Craftsman and so run it without the deck as a pulling tractor.
 

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If it were my mower, I would go for the fix to the lift mechanism rather than taller tires. While your machine is designated "GT" the transmission manufacturer specifies "maximum wheel diameter" or tire size. This is to keep the torque loads on the transmission within their design specs. Larger diameter tires exert more stress on transmissions as well as increase over the ground speeds..

You would need to verify this but I think your trans is a HydroGear G7 and if so, those are rated for a maximum tire diameter of 23". Again, verify the transmission and its max tire size before making tire selection.
 

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Wow, all great replies. Thanks, guys!

So I hadn't really looked in too much detail what exactly was hitting between the deck and frame because I stupidly/blindly assumed it was just going to be... everything. If I can gain an inch by cutting away a bit I'd have no problem going that route, so thanks @B440 !! You have no problem raising the front to the typical 1/8" - 1/4" lower than the back with this method?

Seriously, all great replies. If for whatever reason I can't notch the deck then at least I know it IS possible to install larger tires as long as there is clearance, which I believe there is. Looks like they get quite a penny for these small tires but at this point I don't care I just need a little bit more height available.

Thanks, all, I really appreciate the help.
No issues getting the deck leveled. As was mentioned; watch the pulleys. If they rub anything, then adjust the deck a little lower.
 

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I pulled the rear axle out of a Husquvarna YTH2348 to service it. When I was pulling it out, I found several mounting bolts were broken. While i was looking everything over, I noticed the cross brace on the front of the transmission had two positions to bolt to the frame, where it was stock and another set of holes one inch lower. So I made a set of one inch spacers to sit on top of the axle shafts where they bolt to the frame. Then I dropped the cross brace to the lower set of holes in the frame. I gained an inch in deck height without changing anything else. Cost was minimal, because I had to replace the broken off mounting bolts anyway.
 

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I pulled the rear axle out of a Husquvarna YTH2348 to service it. When I was pulling it out, I found several mounting bolts were broken. While i was looking everything over, I noticed the cross brace on the front of the transmission had two positions to bolt to the frame, where it was stock and another set of holes one inch lower. So I made a set of one inch spacers to sit on top of the axle shafts where they bolt to the frame. Then I dropped the cross brace to the lower set of holes in the frame. I gained an inch in deck height without changing anything else. Cost was minimal, because I had to replace the broken off mounting bolts anyway.
We need pictures of this modification.
 

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That tractor is not here, but as soon as I get to where it is I will take pictures.


At the bottom of the parts picture you will see the axle with bolts 73 and nuts 116 on each side. Two of them were broke on the tractor I was working on. Those are the bolts I replaced with longer bolts, grade 8 this time and added a 1" spacer on each side between the axle and tractor frame.

About half way up the picture is bracket 80 that bolts side to side inside the frame. Bracket 226 bolts to bracket 80 and the front of the transmission to take the torque off of the bolts 73.
There was two holes in the frame where bolts 125 could go through the frame rail, one high and one lower. They just happened to be 1" apart vertically, and were originally installed in the upper holes. So I just moved them to the lower holes. Also where bolts 125 went into the axle to secure bracket 226, they were both broken off. So those got drilled out and replaced.

You may have to read that two or three times while looking at the picture, but I think you will see what I did.
 

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I understand exactly what you did. Husqvarna Outdoor Power even sells certain models with a lift kit like what you did. I assumed you had a GT transaxle, not a K46 though. This is a K46 from a HOP Craftsman FS5500. It has factory spacers. The FS5500 is a GT-sized tractor, but only designed to cut lawns.
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If you do have a K46 transaxle, then your current tire size is possibly at, or slightly over the maximum diameter that Tuff Torq specifies for the transaxle. Using a taller tire will definitely shorten the lifespan.
 

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I pulled the rear axle out of a Husquvarna YTH2348 to service it. When I was pulling it out, I found several mounting bolts were broken. While i was looking everything over, I noticed the cross brace on the front of the transmission had two positions to bolt to the frame, where it was stock and another set of holes one inch lower. So I made a set of one inch spacers to sit on top of the axle shafts where they bolt to the frame. Then I dropped the cross brace to the lower set of holes in the frame. I gained an inch in deck height without changing anything else. Cost was minimal, because I had to replace the broken off mounting bolts anyway.
Did you have to raise the drive pully an inch to keep it in line with idlers or guides? Did all the brake and shift linkage work without modification? I have a DLT2000 that I mowed with for several years. Maximum deck height was often lower than I wanted.
Cannon
 

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It was on a K46 transaxle lawn tractor.
I changed nothing but what I listed.
I would call YTH 2348 a lawn tractor.
The boy that has it, needs a bigger tractor, but that is what he could afford.
He does have several Bolens large frame tractors that we are working on, but they all have a way to go yet.

The problem was on level ground, position 3 on the deck height was as low as the deck would go.
And in the highest position, the deck got high centered on everything, grass was cut about 2 inches high.

My original reason for pulling the axle, change the oil, it would barely pull up a hill.
Changed fluid, cleaned magnet and screen in axle, it will pull front tires off the ground at wide open throttle.

So I noticed extra holes on the mounts and thought that would be cheap and easy way to get a little more ground clearance, and it worked.
Changing the broken bolts to keep the axle solid mounted, did wonders for smooth control of motion.

In your picture, those black spacers are exactly what I made and installed, did need longer bolts.
In picture 1, I see one of the bolts that hold bracket 226 to the axle is either removed or broken off on your axle as well. Both of those were broken off on the one I was working on.
That let the axle twist back and forth going from forward to reverse.
 

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It was on a K46 transaxle lawn tractor.
I changed nothing but what I listed.
I would call YTH 2348 a lawn tractor.
The boy that has it, needs a bigger tractor, but that is what he could afford.
He does have several Bolens large frame tractors that we are working on, but they all have a way to go yet.

The problem was on level ground, position 3 on the deck height was as low as the deck would go.
And in the highest position, the deck got high centered on everything, grass was cut about 2 inches high.

My original reason for pulling the axle, change the oil, it would barely pull up a hill.
Changed fluid, cleaned magnet and screen in axle, it will pull front tires off the ground at wide open throttle.

So I noticed extra holes on the mounts and thought that would be cheap and easy way to get a little more ground clearance, and it worked.
Changing the broken bolts to keep the axle solid mounted, did wonders for smooth control of motion.

In your picture, those black spacers are exactly what I made and installed, did need longer bolts.
In picture 1, I see one of the bolts that hold bracket 226 to the axle is either removed or broken off on your axle as well. Both of those were broken off on the one I was working on.
That let the axle twist back and forth going from forward to reverse.
The bolt is broken off. Very common to strip out or break off. For those two bolts, I drill straight through the case and replace with longer bolts and locknuts.
 

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The rear tires on the tractor I worked on are 20 x 8 x 8. From what I have read, that is the max size Tough Torque recommends for the K 46 axle. Like I said, lawn tractor, definitely not garden tractor.
 
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