My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to all you fine people here at MTF I have learned enough about lawn tractors that I feel like puking....let me explain...

I did my research and thought I bought the best "Mower with a cup holder:(JD135se)00000057: I could afford. It seems now that "Nobody makes what they claim". This yard is not hilly by any means, although it has slopes and small hills I must go up and down. It does seem that Deere,(and others) are making things to fail, according to what I read here.

After mowing today, about an hour, I reached under and felt the T40 transaxle....it was hot, not warm, I could hold my hand on it for more than 4 seconds, but I have enough sense to not get a burnt hand. This is afterall a 2000 dollar machine and should survive a "little" hill, ...I dont know anyone that mows ice rinks.

JD is putting this trans. in low end machines with 10w-30 Dino, even though Tufftorq recommends synthetic,(and from what I've learned here,a non-servicable tranny, is just stupid).

Finally, my question....
1) Should I try to burn the tranny up under warranty and "Factory Recomended Limits" and get them to replace it and pay the dealer to change to synthetic oil while its out?....

2) Upgrade the tranny if the above was an option?.

3) Return it to Deere until common sense rules these companies and buy some goats and a fence?.

Or, will this T40 hold up to light duty(small hills and slopes,thatching,aerating), under proper maintenance and care?:hide:

c1tobor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
After mowing today, about an hour, I reached under and felt the T40 transaxle....it was hot, not warm, I could hold my hand on it for more than 4 seconds, but I have enough sense to not get a burnt hand.
When performing a “wheel spin test” on these Deere’s with the K46 etc. transmissions, we are instructed to test the units while the transmission oil is at operating temperature (hot, approximately 160 degrees F) so if you are concerned that you can’t hold your hand on the case very long, because it’s hot and not “warm”, don’t be.

Second, I have personally replaced four of these transmissions in the past nine months and none of them were what I would call “warranty” issues. All but one were several years old, and almost every unit was PACKED with dirt, had broken or damaged cooling fans and or superficial damage. There was even one that had a bent control linkage (simple fix) with a two inch tow ball attached to the rear of the bent frame. :thThumbsU

Has there been issue’s with these transmissions?

Sure, most of which surrounds the transmissions Internal Dampening system, which is a cost effective (cheap) way to allow smooth forward to reverse transition.

I agree they should be more user friendly, and be readily serviceable. But it all comes down to one thing.

MONEY.:trink39:

...Or, will this T40 hold up to light duty(small hills and slopes,thatching,aerating), under proper maintenance and care
Anything is possible. Take care of the system; it will take care of you.

As far as the other questions, do what you feel best fits your needs. Good luck.:drunkie:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Great answer....two years after warranty i'm gonna change the oil...but I'm a prisoner of educated pepole that have not alot of common sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,611 Posts
I'd change the tranny oil every 100-200 hours tops. I changed the oil in my L120 K46 tranny after 200 or 250 hours, and it showed signs of breakdown. Once the oil breaks down, it begins to accelerate the internal wear from even normal useage. Changing the oil, even if you have to drop the tranny, takes about 2 hours and $15-$20 for synthetic oil. Small investment of time and money, with big benefits.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top