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Sears-o-holic
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Discussion Starter #1
My suburban is having key switch issues. It still uses the original switch(as best I can tell) where the heavy guage wires from the battery run right to the switch, not to a solenoid. The previous owner did away with the solid state ignition, and this tractor now uses a regular coil/points set up. The coil is wired to a separate switch already, since he couldn't figure out how to power the coil while on the start position of the switch. So, all I need is the start function. I would just install a starter button and solenoid and be done with it, but I have a feeling there is more to it than that since it has a starter/generator. Anybody wanna give some insight? Thanks
 

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Both of my 12 HP Suburbans ('67 and '68) have the same setup with a starter generator..I need a new ignition switch for one of mine too,the one with points,the '68 has the SSI ,and I pray it never croaks while I own it!..

As far as I know the ignition switch just "jumps" the 2 heavy battery sized cables together in the "start" position to energize the starter/generator,so the switch has to be capeable of handing the amperage..I see no reason you cant wire the coil to one of the other terminals that is hot only with the key in the "ON" position though..(assuming its a car type coil,not a magneto one!)..

My switch's lock cylinder is all hogged out,like someone drilled it or something,otherwise it works,IF you can get the key to turn the tumbler in it..
I have 2 similar switches from old Sears dear engine riders that are real close,they have the same screw terminals and had the battery sized cables going directly to the starter,so that portion is the same--however,they lack one terminal,I think the one that runs the red lamp for "charge" indicator on the Suburbans dash..
I'm not sure if I could use those switches or not,for that reason,I'd hate to fry the voltage regulator if they are different wired ,I know those rear engine riders had a transistorized voltage regulator for a flywheel altenator and a typical starter,not a starter generator..

I'm still trying to find the wiring diagram I found on a website during a google search I didn't "save"..I may use a toggle switch and a heavy duty push button to crank it until I find more info or the correct switch (and money to BUY one!)..
 

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BTW,instead of using a heavy duty "foot button" switch,its also possible to use a ford type starter solenoid and a push button to "jump" the 2 battery cables off the ignition switch too,its just more wiring and things to drill holes and mount..
I already have a foot button off a hydraulic tailgate I can use,or the other ignitions I mentioned,I'd rather use what I have if possible,to save money..I'd re-wire it to use a "universal" car ignition switch and use a solenoid with it,but the fact they wont ground the magneto in the "off" position makes that option not worth the effort to me..still have to use another switch to shut it off!..
 

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Sears-o-holic
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Discussion Starter #4
So since mine is already on a coil set up on a separate switch, I can just add a solenoid and switch to energize the starter and I should be ok? So how does this thing charge then....?
 

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Thats one question I cant answer, until I see a wiring diagram of the factory setup--I know on an older auto with a generator,the voltage regulator has one "hot" (or battery +) wire on it,usually to close a set of points inside it,that activates the charging system,and two or more other wires on it,that go to the field and armature of the generator,to regulate the amount of volts and amps output..but on starter/generators on some tractors I've had like a Bush-Hog and a Cub Cadet,the regulator is what also switches it from a starter to a generator--on our Suburbans however,I dont think the regulator has anything to do with the starter circuit,since they use the ignition switch that can handle battery current..I need a diagram and to STARE at it awhile,before I can figure out how the regulator works ..:)..one of my Suburbans still charges, despite the "charge" light never shutting off !..
 

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Sears-o-holic
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Discussion Starter #6
haha ok. I think I am gonna try it and see what happens. It's pretty easy to figure out if the generator is charging, just turn the headlights on and run it for a while :) Either it works, or it don't. Then nothing hurt just back to square one ......
 

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When my switch went out I added a solenoid and used the generic switch. There was a black wire that came up from the voltage regulator to the battery side of the old switch. I assumed that was the charging circuit. When I put the solenoid on I place the wire onto the battery side of the solenoid along with the heavy battery cable. So far no problems and my battery seesm to stay charged.

Mine has the starter generator setup.
 

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Was that the "always hot" cable directly from the battery,or the one hot only with the key "ON" you hooked that black wire too?..

If I knew the other Sears switches I have that is nearly identical other than that one "missing" terminal,I'd use it,but I'll have to figure out how to hook the charge indicator lamp up,not sure where to hook it to..my switch has a rivet where the missing terminal would be crimped onto,I'm betting the switch is otherwise identical..IF I could attach a wire to it somehow, I bet it would work..otherwise I'll end up using the foot button and a toggle switch..since the switch is a real pain to get at,I may just take the easy way out--I need to get the thing useable soon!..and fix it "right" later,when I can find the right ignition switch..
 

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Sears-o-holic
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Discussion Starter #10
There was a wiring diagram on another thread. As best I can tell from that there are nothing that would stop me just switching to a starter ignition since my tractor is converted to points!!!!!
 

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A solenoid can be added to any starting circuit.

Basically you can use a solenoid from a car. That is what I do.

To add the solenoid you would just take the positive wire from the battery
and go directly to the "In" terminal of the solenoid. Then run a wire from
that terminal to the ignition switch where the battery would go.

Now from the ignition switch that would normally go to the starter, that
wire you now run back to the terminal on the solenoid that activates
the solenoid.

Now from the "Out" going terminal of the solenoid, that wire goes to the starter.

That's all that is to it. later paul
 

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That diagram helps a lot!..

I knew how to wire up a ford solenoid though,it was hooking up the regulator wires that I wasn't sure about..

I haven't looked real close at the regulator yet,it might have more than 3 terminals possibly?..my Suburban has a red "eyeball" charge indicator lamp on the dash near the steering colum,that is what I dont know where to connect it too,if I use either that other old Sears switch that is lacking the one terminal that wire would go too,or a car style ignition..another problem using the car ignition is it wont ground the magneto in the "off" position,so I'll still need a toggle or push button to "kill" it!..

I'll get it going one way or another,for now I'm using a jumper cable right to the starter generator to crank it,and stalling it with the choke to shut it off..I know that aint good for it,so I'm going to add a kill switch instead for now..and probably use the foot button for the starter,just hook the existing cables from the ignition switch and battery right too it..
 

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Sears-o-holic
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Discussion Starter #14
Solenoid is on and everything seems to work like it should(even charging:) LOL ). One question.....although I bought a new solenoid, it was unmarked which terminal was battery side and which terminal was starter side. I just put her on there and forgot about it, it seems fine. Any ill effects to wiring it back wards? I couldn't really figure it to be, I just don't know for sure.

I just mounted the solenoid to the very back of the battery tray, nearest the dash. Still plenty of room for the battery. Pretty sure it could've held a car battery before LOL. It really cleaned up the look under there because the tractor was rewired for a coil, and he just wired the switch directly from the battery. I was now able to put that new wire on the terminal with the battery cable, along with the existing regulator wire which was mounted to the battery cable prior to the upgrade, as well as the power lead for the new starter button that now lives in the same hole as the old key switch.

I feel this really completed the job that the previous owner starter. He had good intentions keeping the key switch, but the only thing the key switch was still required for was the starter.
 

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Nope,it dont matter which of the larger posts on the solenoid the battery positive and starter cable go on,since all the solenoid does basically,is connect those two posts together inside when you activate it with the ignition switch..

I haven't had the ambition to mess with my Suburbans yet--raining today,and possibly tomorrow,and I hope to go to CT for a concert friday,if I feel well enough..maybe this weekend I'll fool with it..
 

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So i just wired my suburban up with a solenoid and it wont even turn over. so can someone tell me what i did wrong. I ran the wire from the battery to one post of the solenoid. then from the post i ran my battery cable to i ran a wire to my switch. then from the other post on my switch i ran a wire back to the little post on the bottom of the solenoid. then i ran my other big cable from the other big post on the solenoid to the starter generator. now wht post do i run my wire from my voltage regulator to. also what post do i put the wire from the front of the motor that runs to the points and stuff. i know my post is confusing.lol
 

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Well i tryed that site but i dont know what my model number is because it is worn off the shifter plate. So i still need help.
 

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I'm not sure if this is the same as yours but this is how it's done. The 2 big post on the solenoid go to the battery and the Generator

Then you need a little wire from the S on the key switch to the small post on the solenoid.

Before...



After....

 

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That diagram definatly helps. But the reason i put the solenoid in it is because the old switch is junk. i wanted to put a new switch in it and a solenoid because i had the stuff laying around and i didnt want to pay for a new replacement switch. the switch i have is only 2 prongs so were do i runn my wire from the front of my motor that runs to the points and the coil and were do i run my wire from my regulator. or do i just need to find a differnt switch.
 
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