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Discussion Starter #1
So I had a uncle who sold his garden tractor collection and I got 2 140 from the auction.

plans is to get the non runner running and get a tiller for it and to use the runner for grass mowing duties.

I just need to know where to start on the non runner as far a what to check get going from there.
these are my rainy day work projects and I don't have a pressing need for either right now.

these are the only pics I have for now I need to get the serial numbers from them so I know what years these are and start my search from there and get a plan of attack going.

this is the first the Non running 140 got it for $250
and the Running 140 got this for $450
 

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They both look very good and they should serve you well for a long time. From what I see, they both are late 140's.

I'll be following along.
 

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An engine needs 3 things to run....Compression, spark and fuel. I would see if it has compression first.
 

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Nice! if no spark check the points and clean them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I got pictures of the Serial numbers

first on is of the Running 140 thinking it a 1969 H1,
Type T0581 Serial 021159 M
12HP Kohler engine I think


2nd one is of the non running on and thinking that is a 1974 H1,
Type T0585 Serial 063669 M
14HP Kohler engine I think

is what I read on the plates

I need to look at the engine plates and double check them as well.
 

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So I got pictures of the Serial numbers

first on is of the Running 140 thinking it a 1969 H1,
Type T0581 Serial 021159 M
12HP Kohler engine I think
Something is wrong here. With that serial number, it's a '69, but the engine should be a k 321 (14hp), and not a K 301 (12hp). The only thing I can think of is that serial number early enough in '69, that the engine change must of come very shortly after this tractor was made. If you go to this thread, there is a lot of info on the 140's.

https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/700713-john-deere-140-model-year-differences.html



2nd one is of the non running on and thinking that is a 1974 H1,
Type T0585 Serial 063669 M
14HP Kohler engine I think
That will be a nice tractor once you get it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
REdington,

thanks for your advice I'm a learning as I go on these.

will look at the thread you mentioned and also I need to look for the tag on the engine also to verify what it is.


yea the page I was using to reference the TO581 had a 12hp engine for 1968 and that's what I must have used,

Had it listed for 14hp for 1969 down father.

Page I used was here

https://www.jdfanatics.com/threads/120-140-serial-number-breakdown.28/
 

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Here is the info the weekend Freedom Machines has on the 140.


For the 1968 model year, Deere took on all comers with the all new model 140. Marketed to commercial users, truck farmers, nurserymen, and estate owners, it had the power and features to take on many tasks formerly relegated to larger equipment. Advertising of the day stated that the 140 could be purchased for roughly the same amount as "5-weeks wages of one good handyman". Based on an all-new design, the 1968 140 incorporated several new design features as standard never before used on a Deere Garden tractor:

Twelve horsepower, air cooled, Kohler model K301AS cast iron engine with Bendix style starter
Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission, unlimited forward speed to 6 > mph
Hydraulic attachment lift, with three spools optional (H3)
Quick -Tach style mounting of attachments
Electromagnetic PTO clutch for front and center mounted attachments.
1 > gallon fuel tank with gauge
High back deeply cushioned seat adjustable for height and reach
Live rear power take off, used to operate the #33 tiller.

Introduced as a 12-horse model featuring the Kohler K310AS powerplant with a Bendix style starter, the 140 benefited from a hydrostatic transmission, allowing a seamless transition from forward to reverse travel, as well as static braking. A single large lever on the right side of the pedestal controlled this. The transmission was directly coupled to the engine via a steel driveshaft. A cone style clutch was provided to disconnect the engine from the transmission to aid in cold weather starting. For the 68 model year, this clutch was actuated by a single pedal on the left side of the tractor, which also applied the brakes. No provision was made to force the hydro lever back into the neutral position.

The hydrostatic transmission also afforded a new feature formerly only found on large farm tractors; hydraulic lift. The charge pump on the transmission fed a single spool valve on all models. The H3 models used the power beyond output of the single valve to supply pressurized oil to a separate two spool valve. The three levers on the left side of the pedestal were closely spaced to allow them to be "palmed". Pioneer style couplers were utilized on the front of the tractor to control attachments and an optional rear set of outlets powered a Category "0" three point hitch or other rear attachments. Deere advertised the ability to use multiple integral attachments at the same time, something the other manufacturers could not accommodate. The option of a front blade in conjunction with a rear mounted tiller was a popular choice.

Triple safe starting, a Deere feature from 1964 was incorporated on the 140. The PTO needed to be disengaged, the transmission in the neutral setting and the key be used before the tractor could be started. This feature was advertised by showing children playing and climbing on the tractor. Including sitting on the hood!

The model 140 H1 weighed approximately 730# with the H3 version tipping the scales at about 770#. The 140 was designed as a garden tractor, and as such, the work tools for it were heavily built. Deere designed options included:

Model 41 or 48 mower deck
Model 54 front blade with hydraulic lift standard and hydraulic angle optional
Model 49 front snow thrower with hydraulic lift
Model 33 rear tiller with a 26, 34, or 42 inch width and live PTO
Model 80 dump cart
Model 5a sprayer
Front and rear wheel weights
Tire chains, hub caps, cigarette lighter, and headlights
A Category "0" three point hitch
Tire equipment options



With a tractor the size of the 140, allied suppliers were quick to adapt it to their equipment. Front end loaders were available, as were groundsaws, post hole diggers, hard and soft sided enclosures, landscape rakes, numerous gardening tools like plows and discs, and other tools and attachments aimed at commercial users. A more comprehensive listing of these can be found in the allied attachments section of the site.

For 1969, the 140 received a 15% upgrade in power with a move to the 14 horsepower Kohler cast iron K321AS. Also new for the '69 model was individual rear brakes. These allowed sharper turns, as well as the ability to feather a wheel if it was spinning. A change a little more difficult to detect was a switch to a true three spool valve on the H3 models.

At Serial number 30001, for the 1971 model year a change was made in the type of hydrostatic unit used. This change incorporated a pinion and ring gear design rather than the bull gears used on previous models. The rear axle diameter was also increased. Rear brakes were changed for the disc type used up to this time to a more reliable drum brake system. Individual rear wheel brakes were retained on the H3 models.

Other changes were made throughout the run from the 1968 through 1974 model years. Additional John Deere attachments were added such as the 54C center mounted grader blade and the 542 front mounted PTO.
Serial number breaks are as follows:


Year Serial Number Engine
1968 1,001 - 10,000 Kohler K301 (12HP)
1969 10,001 - 22,400 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1970 22,401 - 30,000 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1971 30,001 - 38,000 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1972 38,001 - 46,500 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1973 46.501 - 56,500 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1974 56.501 - ? Kohler K321 (14HP)


Summary by Robb Kruger, Photos from John Deere advertising literature. 01/03/2002
 

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Here is the info the weekend Freedom Machines has on the 140.


For the 1968 model year, Deere took on all comers with the all new model 140. Marketed to commercial users, truck farmers, nurserymen, and estate owners, it had the power and features to take on many tasks formerly relegated to larger equipment. Advertising of the day stated that the 140 could be purchased for roughly the same amount as "5-weeks wages of one good handyman". Based on an all-new design, the 1968 140 incorporated several new design features as standard never before used on a Deere Garden tractor:

Twelve horsepower, air cooled, Kohler model K301AS cast iron engine with Bendix style starter
Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission, unlimited forward speed to 6 > mph
Hydraulic attachment lift, with three spools optional (H3)
Quick -Tach style mounting of attachments
Electromagnetic PTO clutch for front and center mounted attachments.
1 > gallon fuel tank with gauge
High back deeply cushioned seat adjustable for height and reach
Live rear power take off, used to operate the #33 tiller.

Introduced as a 12-horse model featuring the Kohler K310AS powerplant with a Bendix style starter, the 140 benefited from a hydrostatic transmission, allowing a seamless transition from forward to reverse travel, as well as static braking. A single large lever on the right side of the pedestal controlled this. The transmission was directly coupled to the engine via a steel driveshaft. A cone style clutch was provided to disconnect the engine from the transmission to aid in cold weather starting. For the 68 model year, this clutch was actuated by a single pedal on the left side of the tractor, which also applied the brakes. No provision was made to force the hydro lever back into the neutral position.

The hydrostatic transmission also afforded a new feature formerly only found on large farm tractors; hydraulic lift. The charge pump on the transmission fed a single spool valve on all models. The H3 models used the power beyond output of the single valve to supply pressurized oil to a separate two spool valve. The three levers on the left side of the pedestal were closely spaced to allow them to be "palmed". Pioneer style couplers were utilized on the front of the tractor to control attachments and an optional rear set of outlets powered a Category "0" three point hitch or other rear attachments. Deere advertised the ability to use multiple integral attachments at the same time, something the other manufacturers could not accommodate. The option of a front blade in conjunction with a rear mounted tiller was a popular choice.

Triple safe starting, a Deere feature from 1964 was incorporated on the 140. The PTO needed to be disengaged, the transmission in the neutral setting and the key be used before the tractor could be started. This feature was advertised by showing children playing and climbing on the tractor. Including sitting on the hood!

The model 140 H1 weighed approximately 730# with the H3 version tipping the scales at about 770#. The 140 was designed as a garden tractor, and as such, the work tools for it were heavily built. Deere designed options included:

Model 41 or 48 mower deck
Model 54 front blade with hydraulic lift standard and hydraulic angle optional
Model 49 front snow thrower with hydraulic lift
Model 33 rear tiller with a 26, 34, or 42 inch width and live PTO
Model 80 dump cart
Model 5a sprayer
Front and rear wheel weights
Tire chains, hub caps, cigarette lighter, and headlights
A Category "0" three point hitch
Tire equipment options



With a tractor the size of the 140, allied suppliers were quick to adapt it to their equipment. Front end loaders were available, as were groundsaws, post hole diggers, hard and soft sided enclosures, landscape rakes, numerous gardening tools like plows and discs, and other tools and attachments aimed at commercial users. A more comprehensive listing of these can be found in the allied attachments section of the site.

For 1969, the 140 received a 15% upgrade in power with a move to the 14 horsepower Kohler cast iron K321AS. Also new for the '69 model was individual rear brakes. These allowed sharper turns, as well as the ability to feather a wheel if it was spinning. A change a little more difficult to detect was a switch to a true three spool valve on the H3 models.

At Serial number 30001, for the 1971 model year a change was made in the type of hydrostatic unit used. This change incorporated a pinion and ring gear design rather than the bull gears used on previous models. The rear axle diameter was also increased. Rear brakes were changed for the disc type used up to this time to a more reliable drum brake system. Individual rear wheel brakes were retained on the H3 models.

Other changes were made throughout the run from the 1968 through 1974 model years. Additional John Deere attachments were added such as the 54C center mounted grader blade and the 542 front mounted PTO.
Serial number breaks are as follows:


Year Serial Number Engine
1968 1,001 - 10,000 Kohler K301 (12HP)
1969 10,001 - 22,400 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1970 22,401 - 30,000 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1971 30,001 - 38,000 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1972 38,001 - 46,500 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1973 46.501 - 56,500 Kohler K321 (14HP)
1974 56.501 - ? Kohler K321 (14HP)


Summary by Robb Kruger, Photos from John Deere advertising literature. 01/03/2002
:thThumbsU great info!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So for the 74
h1,

Thinking I'll need a manual for that one is there a place I can download one at all?


The 69 for now I'll just use as is, change engine oil and check hydro level and go for this year with it.
Can I run shell T6 rotella 5w-30 synthetic? Reason I ask is I have that on hand that I run in some old Honda atv's that the kids have.


Thanks in advance.

I've been doing a bunch of reading up on 140 as well when I have time.
 

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I bought a CD version from JD about 15 years ago. I think it was around $30 then. JD guards their tech manuals pretty good so you have to buy one or barrow one. I have seen some on ebay once in a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
got the 69 140 out and changed the oil and did a little mowing with it and that thing is a tank!

goes' places that my other mowers spin out

just grinds through stuff.

couple of Pics of the 69 out on the oil change stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
also did some work on the 74 140,

put a battery in it and it turns over but no spark.

I have 12V to the plus side of the coil and wondering should I just buy a coil to put in it and new spark plug while I'm at it?



thanks for your thoughts.
 

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Check voltage on - side of coil, should be around 5-6v. If no voltage, coil is prolly shot. Crank engine while checking - side...voltage should drop then come back...quickly! This indicates coil, points, and condenser are OK. Last, remove plug and lay on engine...make SURE plug is contacting engine. Cramk engine, look for spark. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Check voltage on - side of coil, should be around 5-6v. If no voltage, coil is prolly shot. Crank engine while checking - side...voltage should drop then come back...quickly! This indicates coil, points, and condenser are OK. Last, remove plug and lay on engine...make SURE plug is contacting engine. Cramk engine, look for spark. Bob
thanks will check that tonight. Me and small engine trouble shooting is a learning as I go type of deal.

and with the coil being $100 ish from Deere I don't wanna throw money away on parts that are working.
 

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I helped my cousin swap his electronic ignition to battery & points. Coil, Kohler part number KO-231281s, was $28.45 (+$9.99 shipping) from Small Engine Warehouse. Bob
 

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also did some work on the 74 140,

put a battery in it and it turns over but no spark.

I have 12V to the plus side of the coil and wondering should I just buy a coil to put in it and new spark plug while I'm at it?



thanks for your thoughts.
I would also check your points and point gap. If the tractor has been sitting around they could have corroded and may need to filed/sandpapered or at worst replaced. Double check all connections too for good contact to terminals, ground etc.
 

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thanks will check that tonight. Me and small engine trouble shooting is a learning as I go type of deal.

and with the coil being $100 ish from Deere I don't wanna throw money away on parts that are working.
Go to advance auto and get a cheap $20 coil for a car, I have a mopar coil on my 300.

I would also check your points and point gap. If the tractor has been sitting around they could have corroded and may need to filed/sandpapered or at worst replaced. Double check all connections too for good contact to terminals, ground etc.
X2 on that. Pull the points cover left side under the carb on the front of the engine. Clean them with a file or double folded emery cloth then reset them to matchbook cover thickness. .015-.02

Some advice, when you pull the points cover cut a slot in the lower hole, thumb screw the lower screw in and slide it back on then tighten. BELIEVE ME those lower screws are a pain. :tango_face_devil:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm a novice small engine mechanic kinda learning as I go.

put new Coil on and no spark,
new spark plug no spark
CLeaned the Points and no Spark.
put New Condensor on no spark.
put new points on and got spark put plug back in

sprayed some starting fluid in the carb and she rumbles to life blows out a bunch of oil from the exhaust and white smoke.
Engine smokes alot as well let it run for 3 min or so.

shut it down let shop air out.

Put the Hood back on and front grill and all that stuff. Had to take off to put points on to set the gap.

I have started it 2 times since the first time it ran and it has run without smoking and all that.
Need to get it off the jack stands and car ramps and out to the oil change stand or change oil where it sits before I run it for very long.

so I'm making progress on the 2nd non running unit that I got.

watched the video from ISavetractors on setting the points that really helped me out.

 
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