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Van, Great to hear! The problem totally unrelated to the title is fixed! He he.
You mentioned starting a new thread about the pto issue. I wouldn't! You've got (what I believe to be) a following of knowledgeable people on this! I took the liberty of copying & pasting your first post in red below so we don't need to go back 5 pages!

Hey -- I just replaced the PTO clutch on this 94 STX38 with an 8TEN aftermarket unit but now it won't engage when connected to the tractor. Here's what I tested:

-Ran a jumper to straight to the battery leads - The new 8TEN replacement PTO clutch clicks on at battery voltage about 12.5v.
-Tested the blue wire at the PTO switch - it has battery voltage.
-Tested the connector coming from the harness with the PTO switch 'on' and the key on 'Run' - it has battery voltage at the tractor connector but the PTO doesn't engage. If it has power, the PTO should engage, right?
-Tested continuity of the 8TEN unit. It has about 2.8ohms. Which is actually low - the JD tech manual says it's supposed to have 3 - 10 ohms


These tests lead me to a bad connection, either power plug to pto or ground wire to ??.
When you checked voltage on power to pto from harness, did you check from terminal to terminal on tractor plug or power terminal to ground? Verify tractor plug had good ground connection..."0" ohms.


We'll be here! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Good to hear, as for my post about the starter/solenoid, I was basically seeking to compare the setup on my Black deck STX38 with what I thought I was understanding you had ordered.
After checking, mine has the starter part on the Kohler Command 13 hp engine, and the solenoid part under the seat where the battery compartment is. Good luck with the PTO.
Thanks -- my understanding is that the black deck and yellow deck are dissimilar in so many ways, that if it weren't for the fact that they have the same chassis and hood they'd be completely different tractor models. Makes in complicated when looking for aftermarket parts, for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Van, Great to hear! The problem totally unrelated to the title is fixed! He he.
You mentioned starting a new thread about the pto issue. I wouldn't! You've got (what I believe to be) a following of knowledgeable people on this! I took the liberty of copying & pasting your first post in red below so we don't need to go back 5 pages!

Hey -- I just replaced the PTO clutch on this 94 STX38 with an 8TEN aftermarket unit but now it won't engage when connected to the tractor. Here's what I tested:

-Ran a jumper to straight to the battery leads - The new 8TEN replacement PTO clutch clicks on at battery voltage about 12.5v.
-Tested the blue wire at the PTO switch - it has battery voltage.
-Tested the connector coming from the harness with the PTO switch 'on' and the key on 'Run' - it has battery voltage at the tractor connector but the PTO doesn't engage. If it has power, the PTO should engage, right?
-Tested continuity of the 8TEN unit. It has about 2.8ohms. Which is actually low - the JD tech manual says it's supposed to have 3 - 10 ohms


These tests lead me to a bad connection, either power plug to pto or ground wire to ??.
When you checked voltage on power to pto from harness, did you check from terminal to terminal on tractor plug or power terminal to ground? Verify tractor plug had good ground connection..."0" ohms.


We'll be here! Bob
Thanks Bob. As it turns out, the saga continues now where it started -- the PTO did not engage after running the engine for a minute or two and making sure the system voltage was over 13.2, which the aftermarket PTO clutch documentation says is required. The system shows 13.9 v, so the it's charging as it should. Next steps -- retest the key switch and PTO switch and check the ground connection from the PTO clutch, which will probably require (ugh) removing the deck again. If I apply power and ground directly to the PTO clutch wires, it clicks on, so the problem is in the tractor. Will report again tomorrow -- today is a day off!
 

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Van, when you get back into it...tonight, tomorrow, next week!... , make up 2 jumpers. Strip one end on each about 1/2" and the other end about1 to 1-1/2". Plug/push short end into pto plug going to tractor wiring, plig/push long end into pto wire plug. This will give you the ability to check voltage to clutch when clutch is "On" and not just power from tractor with no load on switch & wires. Then! Make 1 more jumper to go from pto clutch connector straight to Neg battery post. If nothing changes, at least you know if ground is good!

My only other thought is that you have 12.5 volts from switch, but no idea of amps. DC clamp on ammeters are expensive, so not sure how to check amps going to the clutch. Bob
 

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Thanks -- my understanding is that the black deck and yellow deck are dissimilar in so many ways, that if it weren't for the fact that they have the same chassis and hood they'd be completely different tractor models. Makes in complicated when looking for aftermarket parts, for sure.
Motorhobo, I totally can believe what you say here.
I am fairly new to Green lawn tractors as from my first effort to make a quick fix on a lady friend's 80's or 90's one, led me to decide Deere engineers over complicate things to make it hard to reach or get at the simplest of maintenance issues, so I preferred to stay away. But when one gets 1 mower free and another for $40 they are worth a little learning on. I am pretty sure my 2 are a Kohler 13 hp Command in the STX and a Kaw in my 14 hp 176. 2 totally different animals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
So all it took was a quick peek under the chassis to see the loose ground for the PTO clutch connector dangling there. When I jump this ground to the cold wire on the PTO clutch connector, jump the hot wire from the PTO connector on the tractor and hit the switch, the PTO clicks on.



2499546

What I have under there looks like this:

PTOConnectorAndLooseGround.jpg


It looks like whoever 'worked on' this tractor before me just jammed that loose ground wire into the recess for the ground connector on the tractor's PTO connector without bothering to fasten it to anything. Which is exactly what I did today to get the lawn mowed...I'm not giving those lawn dudes any more $50 bills!

Having said that, I can't live with that ground wire just jammed in there and need to know what's the 'right way' to connect it. It looks like that white-ish connector is a male connector with no mate, and I can imaging that the loose ground should mate with the black wire in that white-ish connector. What I have now is in the pic -- yellow looks like it's from the switch on the harness, blue is power on the harness, and the loose end is the ground from the engine which I'm holding in position there. Does anyone know where that loose ground end is supposed to go?

BTW it took about 20 minutes to find the loose ground, splice in some additional wire with a butt connector, heat-shrink the connection and get the PTO clutch working. So as it turned out, all the previous 5 pages of this post had nothing to do with that, and everything to do with the starter/solenoid issue. Which just goes to show -- 2 things fail at the same time, and when they do, it sucks.
 

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Glad you found it Motorhobo. Try driving your Full size truck in sketchy rain/sleet type stuff into the edge of Baltimore City one foggy grey winter night and get blinded by an MTA bus' lights so bad that before your vision clears, you just ran over a concrete median in the center of the road and flattened both left tires and bent the one rim beyond repair. We all know, one is lucky if they have one fully inflated spare. But then what do you do about the 2nd Flat tire? What sucked was the stupid median was there and the road marker line went UNDER the median instead of parallel and NEXT TO the median. I was not happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
The connector in post #106 appears to be for the accessory headlights, so I'll probably just splice the loose ground in with a splice connector. So it appears this whole thing is resolved. Thanks to all!
 
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