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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys I need help again !! On one of my Pro-12's I have a problem with the stupid safety switches on the handles. On the right side you have to have the drive handle engaged to start it when it should be in the neutral position instead. It did work fine but now its doing this. I'm trying to figure out the wiring problem using the manual and a test light but it has me a bit stumped probably because we have 20+cm comming and I'm in a rush so I'm missing the obvious problem. Any sugestions ??

Troy.
 

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Uh...this may sound stupid or smart alecky but my suggestion is to use another tractor. Seems like you have a few (!) to choose from. (that's a not too funny joke to cover up my jealousy)
 

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On the right side you have to have the drive handle engaged to start it when it should be in the neutral position instead.
Drive handle? Do you mean the fwd-rev lever?

Are you saying that for the starter to operate that the fwd-rev lever has to be locked into the forward position?

What else doesn't work right? OP switches working OK? PTO switch OK?
 

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If you have a model number, I have the electrical troubleshooting manual from Gravely. Is it the metal presense switches or the micro switches in the handles? The interlock switch on the F-N-R is a normally open switch on ones with the plastic and micro switch presense controls. If it is one with metal presense levers, the F-N-R interlock switch is a N.C switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Guys.
Sorry for the delay with this and thanks for the feed back.I ended up jumping the switch with a small piece of wire as a temp fix. But now it wont start at all unless I use my booster pack and put "-" on battery and put "+" on starter post. I used the piece of wire for a while and it started great without a single problem. For some reason its acting up again. There is still the puzzling part of why I had to put the small jumper wire in the FWD/REV switch to get it to start in neutral. It would only start in FWD before but was not always like that. Every thing else is working fine. Here is the wiring chart and what switch it is. Any help would help please.
 

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I've been dealing with some of the interlocks on the Pro series lately. Are you sure your starter solenoid is working correctly?

When you put your finger near it, you can feel a very distinct clunk from that solenoid when it is activated. This will only happen when all the interlock switches are in the 'safe' states.

If you have a solid clunk from your solenoid but no cranking, I think your problem is a solenoid problem and not the interlocks.

Have you tested each of your interlock switches with a multimeter to make sure they are responding properly?

Have you physically checked each of the interlock switches to make sure it is being activated correctly? ie: little ball on the F-R lever or on the shipper shaft linkage is depressed at the right times?

Based on what you said about that F-R interlock switch, did you check to make sure the little ball on that switch is moving in and out properly? I have one on a Pro 12 that just rusted up and got stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Going out to garage right now to check with my multi-meter.As for the ball being seized is not the problem. It does function and it does interrupt current. I keep the switches clean and put Di-electric grease on them. Thanks for the tips,I will let you know what I figured out.
 

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SInce the problem seems to be in the cranking side of things, here is how the power flows.

First two principles. The solenoid coil need to have +12 volts on one small terminal ( the terminal with the orange wire). This +12 volts only occurs when the switch is in the "Start" position.

The "ground" side of the solenoid coil has to have zero volts on it for the starter to engage.

So, here is how I would approach things. All tests are done with the key in the "START" position.

1 - verify that +12 volts is present on the small terminal with the orange wire.

2 - Since it is not cranking, you likely have +12 volts on the other small terminal (the terminal with two brown wires. If you measure +12 at the terminal with two brown wires than means that one of the switches or wires is bad.

3 - Measure the voltage at the PTO switch. With the PTO disengaged (make sure the brackets aren't loose) there should be 0 volts on both terminals. If 12 volts in on one and zero on the other, the switch is likely defective. If both terminals measure 12 volts then the PTO switch is likely good.

4 - Measure the voltage at the fwd/rev switch terminals. If both terminals measure +12 then there is a broken wire. If one side measures +12 and the other zero, then the switch is likely bad.
 

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One more thing. If the hour meter does not work the there is a break in the dark blue wire. The dark blue wire is supposed to be ground.
 

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Let me come up with a troubleshooting guide that is a little better before we put this one in the archive.

I have to admit that the diagram Gravely provides isn't the best one I have seen. It isn't the worst either.
 

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Revised version

Since the problem seems to be in the cranking side of things, here is how the power flows. This guide is for the tractor with the wiring diagram above only.

Prerequisites:
The battery is good and is charged.
All tests are done with the key in the "START" position and that the spark plug wire(s) are disconnected and the tractor is in neutral

First two principles and the solenoid test.

First rule is that the solenoid coil must have +12 volts on the small terminal with the orange wire.

Second rule is that the other small solenoid terminal with two brown wires has to be at zero volts.

If both of these conditions are met (+12 and zero on the respective terminals) it has to crank. If it does not crank, then the solenoid and/or starter or associated cable is likely defective and proper solenoid and starter tests should be performed.

If +12 volts is missing on the terminal with the orange wire, then the ignition switch or orange wire is defective. Test and repair as needed.

PTO switch test.

Measure the voltage at the PTO switch. With the PTO disengaged there should be 0 volts on both terminals. If 12 volts in on one and zero on the other, the switch is likely defective. If both terminals measure 12 volts then the PTO switch is likely good and the defect is downstream from here.

FWD-REV switch test.

Measure the voltage at the fwd/rev switch terminals. If both terminals measure +12 then there is a broken wire. If one side measures +12 and the other zero, then the switch is likely bad or there is a broken wire.

Below is a schematic of just the starting circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I recieved a scolding for someone thinking I wanted to by-pass safety handles ! NOTE:: I do not want to by-pass them !! I need them in proper working order as I have employees and my son operating them and safety is of the utmost importance!!

Troy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Richard after viewing your comment on my question and after reading so many other helpful answers to mine and others questions you are a DARN GOOD MAN !! If we lived close to one another I would be glad to bring you a case of beer or etc to say thank-you for all the help.

Troy.
 
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