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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been a while since I was last here. Still have the GT2254 but now have a problem. A mouse decided to build a nest in the engine right above the right side cylinder. causing that side to over heat and the intake lifter rod to pop off. Well the shop has it and has found that the intake valve is stuck. they free it up put everything back and the engine runs fine. Shut off the engine and let it sit and cool down and the valve becomes stuck again and has to be freed. They think a small amount of old gas was left in the tank and the varnish is causing the valve to stick. Also the head gasket might need to be replaced. Any Ideas out there am I looking in the right direction with this?? The Tractor is 3 years old, I have used it every season. It has a B&S 22hp V-twin ELS engine and about 25 hours of run time. :praying:
 

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More like the stem got warped from the heat...
You will need to sand it smooth...
If your lucky you can take an old screw driver and bend it in a L shape and stick it down the spark plug hole and push the valve shut...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The problem is that the valve gets stuck closed and then the intake push rod pops off again. this only happens after the engine cools. while the engine is hot everything is fine you can restart the tractor and have both cylinders running. but let it cool for 15 min to a half hour and the valve sticks and off comes the push rod. Since it is a V twin the other cylinder takes over still runs but alot less power
 

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"The problem is that the valve gets stuck closed and then the intake push rod pops off again. "

Doubt that is what is happening, sticking open, maybe. IF stuck closed, push rod would be bent. Are you sure the Rocker Arm isn't cracked thru the pivot? I would get some Marvel Mystery Oil and use according to directions on the can.

Walt Conner
 

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One of the things I've seen happen on overheated Kawasaki V-twins is that the valve guide will start to move in the head. Once the engine cools, the valve can be stuck partly open, or the guide will prevent it from opening all the way resulting in a bent and disconnected pushrod. Were bad gas the problem, it would affect both cylinders.
 

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You know... I have heard that "Bad gas, stuck valve" issue brought up before. Frankly I dont buy it!!! If the gas was THAT bad, that it would varnesh up the valve stem in the guide [were it normaly does not flow too!] the carb would be so plugged up, that it would not run. Im with Kevin. Somehting warpped. When hot, it expands enough to move, but as it cools everything shrinks back down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well carb is clean, the shop I had look at it is a Husqvarna dealer. He said this has him stumped. something has to be warped just as you said. I just hope it is not too expensive
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I got it back. Cost $196.00 cause-gum. The mouse nest on the right side of the engine over heated the cylinder. This in turn caused the old gas in the bottom of the tank to gum up the valves. The guy at the shop said he would get the valve out as far as it would go and release it. it would Slowly return back and I mean slowly. told me to run a higher octane gas in it and not to keep the gas more than three weeks out of the pump. good thing I have an ear for engine noises a little longer and the cost would have been a new engine / tractor
 

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"told me to run a higher octane gas in it and not to keep the gas more than three weeks out of the pump. "

Phooey!

Walt Conner
 
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