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Discussion Starter #21
Number 12 is the one I thought you were referring to. They are usually a 7/16th inch fine thread bolt torqued to around 40 ft-lbs and a right hand thread. With the impact wrench, you can try a quick tightening and then a longer untightening. That should break any rust or foreign particles in the thread.
 

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Drain the oil and fuel first before you turn it on it's left side and support the steering column. Once it is on the side, you have easier access to it
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Cool.. i think we are on the same page here.. i did wonder about trying that.. was slightly scared of doing that in case it made it worse..
Initially.. i had got iy turned to the right.. (before i found out wrong way) it moved slightly.. now completely stuck .
Probably.. if id backed myself for starters,and done what i thought was right initially rather than someone elses post on the net, job would be done by now..
Easy enough to get at,once deck is off.. and thats a piece of cake...
Being worried about doing it wrong in the 1st place was my biggest downfall i think.. i found a thread that lead me to believe.. bolt was left hand thread🤦‍♀️
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Plastic bag i was going to put under gas tank lid.. and if i turn the side opposite air filter... i shouldnt need drain oil .. it has screw on cap on it..

Down to about 3 hrs sleep for two days over this darn thing.. im getting very short in the grain..
Ive been on google and you tube loooking for answers..
Prevous owner did admit to hitting a warratah (you might call them Y POSTS) so that also may not be helping things ..
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Best to take a break & get some sleep as mistakes happen all too easily then.
Too late for that.. ha ha.. i have to get it done.. i wont sleep until it is..
If it were my lawns only,it would be fine.. but i have others relyinb on me keeping things tidy!
 

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Have you tried any penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, WD40)?

or heat? Don’t heat the screw, but rather what it’s screwed into. The heat causes the part to expand, hopefully from the screw. Don’t over heat. Try to remove the screw while there’s a significant temperature difference. Impact wrenches can be the solution, but they also can tighten things too tight, making them more than difficult to remove.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Have you tried any penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, WD40)?

or heat? Don’t heat the screw, but rather what it’s screwed into. The heat causes the part to expand, hopefully from the screw. Don’t over heat. Try to remove the screw while there’s a significant temperature difference. Impact wrenches can be the solution, but they also can tighten things too tight, making them more than difficult to remove.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yes.. i tried that.. and it didnt work.. with wd40..
Bit reluctant to put heat anywhere near it as its the main shaft that goes up to motor.
I think my safest bet it make sure its on properly.. use an impact socket on a breaker bar maybe with another lump of pipe on the end for leverage. The impact socket probably a better more true fit.. spray more wd40 at the top of pulley and around hex bolt.. and give it heaps.. worst that can happen i snap the bolt right?
Just want to get this sorted today if i can.. that way i can make sure i get another bolt before xmas day..
I generally mow lawns on xmas day..
I'll give it another crack.. resign myself to hex bolt snapping.. thats the worst that can happen,right?
I think ive done everything i can including removing spark plug and stuffing a rope in cylander.. so surely its just more muscled needed.
A bit reluctant to put rattle gun near it now..
Yes.. im a rookie .. doing this particular task.. but fact is.. taking to a shop ain't an option.. over an hour away.. (no way to load in its current state)and this is xmas time.. surely this chick can win on this task... this is the worst bit.. fitting replacements will be easy!
Cheers for the luck.. i think i might need it 👩‍🌾🧙‍♂️🍀🍀
 

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First off...there is a reason a pipe wrench is called a pipe wrench...it is for pipes, and although it will work on this it will deform the bolt head and possibly break the bolt off....if all else fails, drain the engine of gas and oil before tipping it on its side...then soak it in a good quality product like WD40 or PB blaster or Kroil...I like automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with acetone ( I always get beaten up for suggesting that, but it works) ...keep soaking it every day for at least 3 or 4 days and give it a bang with a hammer a few times...not hard enough to deform the bolt head...after about 4 days...give it a shot of heat with a torch and have the proper size socket ready with a 1/2 inch drive handle....try both directions until you feel it loosen....that being said...the belt guides should come off ...are you saying that they are welded on? I have never had to remove that pulley to change a belt
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Belt guides are NOT removeable.. trust me.. if they were.. they would have been off already..
The club cadet ones are.. but not this MTD..
Basically.. breaker bar is what il use with a lump of pipe over the end of it for leverage
.. you guys call it something else.. (yes we speak a slightly different language in new zealand.. for instance.. you say counter clockwise.. we say anti clockwise as an example)
I dont have acetone here.. (im a chick that doesnt wear nail polish.. thats too girly!)2 hr round trip to go get some , so il have to make do..

We have something called CRC.. (similar to wd40) il drown in that again.. let it sit for an hour while i muck around taking off blades,sharpening and rebalancing them..
This already has been a coupla day mission that is testing my patience... i keep walking away..having a think and going back to it.. but it is NOT getting the task done.
I can see im going to have to be very clear in describing things.. because some things are called different names to what we do out here.. but hey.. you guys might get a laugh out of some of our lingo out here..
Just think of me as one of the blokes...
Cheers for your suggestions😉
 

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that bolt turns COUNTER (ANTI) CLOCKWISE to loosen and I find it hard to believe that the impact won't loosen it. I'm guessing the belt guide is the style of being frame pieces bend down. I have in a case bent them enough to replace belt. In case where even when the bolt comes out but the pulley won't come down some people actually remove motor mount bolts and lift motor to r&r the belt.
 

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Is there a space, or room enough, to put a cheater bar, or pipe extension, on the socket wrench handle and run it out the side of the tractor? With a socket wrench, and a 6" extension between the wrench and the socket, may have just enough room to get just a little travel on the bar, then one click back to start again. Do you have a helper to help hold the socket on the bolt head?

Helped a neighbor change his motion drive belt on a Simplicity GT this fall. Same thing. Had to drop the pulleys off the crank shaft in order to change the belt.
Belt keepers around pulleys were not removable, or bendable.

But we did put his front axle up on tall jack stands to give us more room under the tractor. He held the socket and socket extension up in place on the bolt, whilst I pulled on the cheater bar from the other side.
Use a 6 pt socket if you can.
Engine turned clockwise so bolt needed to turn counter clockwise. (Lefty looesy, righty tighty).
We stuffed 1/2" cotton rope in the cylinder through the spark plug opening. That kept the crank shaft from turning.
Should be able to put as much force on the bolt as you need to. Engine will not turn.
 

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Belt guides are NOT removeable.. trust me.. if they were.. they would have been off already..
The club cadet ones are.. but not this MTD..
Basically.. breaker bar is what il use with a lump of pipe over the end of it for leverage
.. you guys call it something else.. (yes we speak a slightly different language in new zealand.. for instance.. you say counter clockwise.. we say anti clockwise as an example)
I dont have acetone here.. (im a chick that doesnt wear nail polish.. thats too girly!)2 hr round trip to go get some , so il have to make do..

We have something called CRC.. (similar to wd40) il drown in that again.. let it sit for an hour while i muck around taking off blades,sharpening and rebalancing them..
This already has been a coupla day mission that is testing my patience... i keep walking away..having a think and going back to it.. but it is NOT getting the task done.
I can see im going to have to be very clear in describing things.. because some things are called different names to what we do out here.. but hey.. you guys might get a laugh out of some of our lingo out here..
Just think of me as one of the blokes...
Cheers for your suggestions😉
Well, it sounds like this is not your first time fixing things. The heavy hammer hit on the head of the bolt will sometimes help break it loose, but it would be easier if the tractor was upside down ... just kidding. Somewhere I thought I read the bolt might have to be broken off. Trust me, You don’t want to break it off. Trying to get the rest of the bolt out then will be an even tougher job. That’s one reason putting a cheater bar on the ratchet can be a mistake. There’s likely a locking feature on the head of the screw or a lock washer. The bolt is made to not come out easily. Otherwise the bolt would come loose and the pulley would start flopping around. There may be some tension on the belt which may be pulling on the pulley which will make the bolt removal harder. Turning the tractor on its side would help get the WD40 or alternative CRC to work its way up the threads. The heat will sometimes overcome rust that may be in there. That’s why you don’t heat the bolt, but rather what it’s screwed into. The expansion will break any rust loose first, but I understand your hesitation in heating the engine crankshaft, which is what the bolt is screwed into.

By the way, a bloke with big arms may be of help pulling on the ratchet even with a pipe extension or lump of pipe. 😊 Hope I didn’t offend you.
 

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In this application the pipe wrench would be used only to hold the pulley & engine from turning as you apply torque to remove the bolt...the pulley's bolt is in a deep recess no pipe wrench could grab..it requires a deep socket...impact gun works well here because it can unscrew the bolt so fast the engine hasn't got time to spin or resist,but you must be SURE which way you need to turn that bolt in order to loosen it..

I have yet to come across one of those pulley bolts with a left hand thread,but that doesn't mean none exist,and in fact I wouldn't put it past the manufacturer to switch from right hand to left hand thread to ensure heartaches when someone goes to take one out and instead tightens it and twists it off..

I actually have used a pipe wrench to get some badly rotted nuts and bolts out,but it does mutilate the head of the bolt (which was junk anyways and should be replaced)..but its not their intended purpose..
 

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The heavy hammer hit on the head of the bolt will sometimes help break it loose, but it would be easier if the tractor was upside down ... just kidding...
I'm glad you are only kidding as beating on it could be detrimental to the engine.

It boggles my mine that an MTD engineer would have come up with such a terrible design that requires the pulley be pulled to change a belt. That engineer should be sentenced to 6 months of hard labour in a repair shop replacing belts.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
That is correct.. or as we call it out here.. anti clockwise...

Well.. UPDATE.. bolt snapped off..
So now the joy of getting that out 🤣

About two threads showing..
I guess il have to have a crack at welding a nut to this sucker..unless anyone else has a better idea🤦‍♀️
Is there a space, or room enough, to put a cheater bar, or pipe extension, on the socket wrench handle and run it out the side of the tractor? With a socket wrench, and a 6" extension between the wrench and the socket, may have just enough room to get just a little travel on the bar, then one click back to start again. Do you have a helper to help hold the socket on the bolt head?

Helped a neighbor change his motion drive belt on a Simplicity GT this fall. Same thing. Had to drop the pulleys off the crank shaft in order to change the belt.
Belt keepers around pulleys were not removable, or bendable.

But we did put his front axle up on tall jack stands to give us more room under the tractor. He held the socket and socket extension up in place on the bolt, whilst I pulled on the cheater bar from the other side.
Use a 6 pt socket if you can.
Engine turned clockwise so bolt needed to turn counter clockwise. (Lefty looesy, righty tighty).
We stuffed 1/2" cotton rope in the cylinder through the spark plug opening. That kept the crank shaft from turning.
Should be able to put as much force on the bolt as you need to. Engine will not turn.
Not sure if you seen my update..
The bolt broke😭..
So now.. i have to get that out..
On discussion with an old guy last night.. we came to the conclusion that before i owned this mower.. it may have hit something..
Any how ... now todays mission.. try get old bolt out.. tell me.. if bolt is a yellowish color.. chances are its heat treated??
 

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You sound quite resourceful.....do you have some good drill bits, motor and easy outs?....Can't imagine getting a welding stick or mig behind a nut to weld it together...if you were afraid of too much heat with a torch....welding will really do it..that yellow color just indicates that it has a zinc chromate corrosion resistant finish
 
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