This was my highly scientific method of reaching my desired 1,450 psi:

Andreas

Andreas
Probably, that's why I specified it.Question. In the first post you stated "cold engine". Isn't the engine supposed to be at operating temperature to get accurate pressures while shimming?
pictures can be found here:Andreas,
Is the washer the rubber looking piece in the cap? Flat on one side and rounded on the other? An O ring actually!
I wish I had talked a pic!
Bruce
As a side topic.... I assume you're increasing the pressure for a 45 loader... What's your experience with the loader? I heard people were popping the rear steering links when the loader was loaded on 4WS tractors.Thanks Mattman,
That is the thread that I reviewed before my first pass at adding the shims. I don’t have the washer, just shims:dunno:
I have now reduced the X729 from 1,450 psi to 1,275 and my X700 is now at 1,350.
Probably, that's why I specified it.
Probably a dumb question, but does the pressure increase as the fluid warms up? I’m pretty sure I shimmed mine when cold. From the factory, I was at 95si, added one 1mm washer and went to 1250. Added another one, and went to 1550. I took that washer back out and am happy at 1250psi.Question. In the first post you stated "cold engine". Isn't the engine supposed to be at operating temperature to get accurate pressures while shimming?
Probably a dumb question, but does the pressure increase as the fluid warms up? I’m pretty sure I shimmed mine when cold. From the factory, I was at 95si, added one 1mm washer and went to 1250. Added another one, and went to 1550. I took that washer back out and am happy at 1250psi.
At lower temperatures, the hydraulic oil has a higher viscosity (thicker), which means that you can see higher pressures at lower temps. (The pump will have to work harder and build up more pressure to move the oil). Having said that, the relief valve should negate that effect in most cases, as long as the higher viscosity oil can easily pass through the small hole in the relief valve. Its always recommended for the oil to heat up a bit so that the relief valve can easily do its job, and you will get more accurate readings.I'm not sure, but every write up I've read said to have the engine at operating temperature. Maybe someone more knowledgeable about hydraulics will chime in here on whether the engine should be hot or cold when doing the test.
Hi,Hi - the JD High-guard hydraulic oil is thin even when cold, temp does not matter much. I think you are needlessly worrying about the valves set point. I stacked washers in mine like a roll or quarters - at - I have run my 45 FEL shimmed for 12 yrs w/o an issue or a leak. At idol, I have 1500 PSI at the hose connect. At 1/2 throttle, I have 3,200 PSI, at full throttle, I have 3,600 PSI :tango_face_devil:
I have measured the lift capacity of the loader - it was still going to full height w/o a problem with 1500 lbs in the bucket. I ran out of payload! I heat w/wood, and move 24" diameter x 6 to 8 ft long green oak logs all the time. Shim-it and forget it!!
The pump in the K92 is rated for 1502 psi. I'd be more concerned about pump breakage than leaks in lines rated for 1900-4100 psi or fittings rated for 3500 psi.Hi - the JD High-guard hydraulic oil is thin even when cold, temp does not matter much. I think you are needlessly worrying about the valves set point. I stacked washers in mine like a roll or quarters - at - I have run my 45 FEL shimmed for 12 yrs w/o an issue or a leak. At idol, I have 1500 PSI at the hose connect. At 1/2 throttle, I have 3,200 PSI, at full throttle, I have 3,600 PSI :tango_face_devil:
I have measured the lift capacity of the loader - it was still going to full height w/o a problem with 1500 lbs in the bucket. I ran out of payload! I heat w/wood, and move 24" diameter x 6 to 8 ft long green oak logs all the time. Shim-it and forget it!!