Steiner

39036 Views 47 Replies 13 Participants Last post by chex313, Aug 18, 2021

eburwell

Discussion Starter · Dec 25, 2011

I bought this older Steiner. My plan is to fix it up, give it a paint job then work it. The p.o had said it leaks real bad oil and smokes bad and he only used it to tow cars up his steep incline driveway, He had said the tractor was never under any cover for its hole life just sat in the open. But had said the guy he got it off put a new engine it?
I had bought the tractor it had such a bad oil leak the hole tractor was coated, and had its own smoke cloud that would follow you around.

I had give it about 3 different engine degreaser baths to see where the leak was coming from but it still would hardly clean up. But it was better than it was. I had put on my spare mower deck that i have for my newer Steiner and i mowed with it.

Seems the oil leak was the crank seal, I pulled the motor gave it some more engine degreaser baths. After the motor is simi clean I can see all newer gaskets hiding under the covers/ Pull the covers and see written in crayon (REBUILT IN 2001) Turns out the had put a wrong crank seal in it when they rebuilt the motor. fixed that, no more oil leak.
Now i started to give it a paint job, Painting it with Valspar IH red, from TSC. I only painted the hood so far and the wheels.

I building a snow blade for it to, i am using a rusted up cub cadet blade. going to cut the wear edge off of it. then weld a newer but longer edge on it then I'm going to put aluminium over the blade part and bolt the two together so i have a smooth blade part.

New fast hitch built for the blade

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Logorhea

· #13 · Mar 9, 2012

The oldest models were the S16, first one I bought, and S18. I currently own a 420, 425 (50% heavier,) 430 (only 10% heavier than the 420,) and a 525, 10% bigger than the 425. Getting high-centered is easy, but you just push down with the front and/or rear lift, throw rocks or logs under the wheels, and repeat until you're off. I mowed hillsides the sheep wouldn't walk on. If you think that rear axle's jammed, you should see one with the category 0 three-point hich on it!

You're taking pictures with the camera you haven't bought yet (look at the dates!) The 440 will have bigger wheels, by the way.

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Logorhea

· #16 · Apr 3, 2012

For your info, until this year Steiner used the same transaxle for all their units. The housing costs about $900, the cover, gaskets, and seals about $400, or the assembled unit for $1350 with all the gears inside! The transaxle housings are aluminum, so don't overtorque the bolts, and don't put a long bolt in a short hole or it may cut or crack through into the oil. You can use a 12mm helicoil and bolt to repair a stripped hole.

The only part that's not available for anything before the 430 is the front frame, so don't overload the front hitch. No flip-up 5' or 6' mower, no 4' bucket, no 5' or 6' bulldozer blade. That's why I scrapped my 420 - too many overlapping welds.

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Logorhea

· #18 · Apr 4, 2012

1982 seems a little late for an S-18, but they made that model for more than 1 year. I forgot how funny they looked. The part that's squeezed onto the axle is called a bushing; the hub has the wheel studs in it. I thought the wheel bushings were always cast iron, but I've only ever had to replace one because I traded so often. They're a P1 split-taper bushing, often found on ebay, whichever diameter your axle is. I know they used 3 different axle sizes.

I see you have the rear mounting rod for the loader. It makes a good steering pedal for when the steering piston breaks off or tears out of the floor board.

I have a hydraulic three-point hitch mounted rototiller if anyone's interested. It runs off the auxilary power pack for the loader, not the secondary hydraulics. The valve lets you run it backwards for fine tilling, or to throw out a rock. The front tiller tends to go straight down if you hit a soft spot, because of all that weight on the front. Good luck.

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Logorhea

· #20 · Apr 4, 2012

The axles were never tapered, but they went to a two-piece hub sometime after yours. The manuals for the 420-on-up models are at www.steinerturf.com. Click on Parts, do a Contains search on your model number, and click on the Literature tab. Almost everything but the front frame and wiring harness is still available from Steiner, but most of it is standard industrial parts you can find cheaper. They were sold out 3 times, so the older manuals are only available online, occassionally. If you need to move it without the motor running, put the transaxles in neutral. Wait till you try to replace the deck belt on the mower. (Hint: you have to unbolt the arms on the older mowers.)

The rear of the loader frame fastens to the bar sticking out above the floorboard. They needed something wider than the motor and couldn't use the rear or an underframe like all the other loaders.

Sounds as if you have the tiller kicking toward the engine. The Steiner one kicks forward and weighs 305#. I got tired of going back and my neighbor had this hydraulic-driven one made by Case in the mid-70s, so I converted it and balanced the tractor. My neighbor was complaing about the tire marks when I went forward with the front-mounted one, so I picked it up and went backward. Presto! No tire tracks. Then I had him step into a track I made in the softest dirt to show him that his shoe left a deeper impression!

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