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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this older Steiner. My plan is to fix it up, give it a paint job then work it. The p.o had said it leaks real bad oil and smokes bad and he only used it to tow cars up his steep incline driveway, He had said the tractor was never under any cover for its hole life just sat in the open. But had said the guy he got it off put a new engine it?
I had bought the tractor it had such a bad oil leak the hole tractor was coated, and had its own smoke cloud that would follow you around.




I had give it about 3 different engine degreaser baths to see where the leak was coming from but it still would hardly clean up. But it was better than it was. I had put on my spare mower deck that i have for my newer Steiner and i mowed with it.


Seems the oil leak was the crank seal, I pulled the motor gave it some more engine degreaser baths. After the motor is simi clean I can see all newer gaskets hiding under the covers/ Pull the covers and see written in crayon (REBUILT IN 2001) Turns out the had put a wrong crank seal in it when they rebuilt the motor. fixed that, no more oil leak.
Now i started to give it a paint job, Painting it with Valspar IH red, from TSC. I only painted the hood so far and the wheels.



I building a snow blade for it to, i am using a rusted up cub cadet blade. going to cut the wear edge off of it. then weld a newer but longer edge on it then I'm going to put aluminium over the blade part and bolt the two together so i have a smooth blade part.







New fast hitch built for the blade


 
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Steiner makes some great tractor that really mow nicely. A guy going to where I work has one (has a steep yard) and he has one of the nicest lawns in the area!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I want one. 4x4 right?
Yes its a 4x4 with hi and low range, The price on these are not cheap. If you find one. I paid close to 6000 for my newer used Steiner 4x4, it came with a bunch of attachments and had a new rebuilt motor, before that I was at a auction and a another Steiner went for 6500 and was not near the condition as mine and it only had a mower. I think a brand new Steiner costs around 11,000 with no attachments just a basic tractor. now this older Steiner i paid 600 for it. But these tractors are high valued in my area

you can just about do anything with the tractor, Changing a attachment on it takes less than a minute if that.
 

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Small Engine Collector
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Thanks for the info. If I ever see one of these tractors for sale cheap im definatly going to buy it. $600.00 doesent sound to bad for one but my problem is where would I find one. I've seen a few for sale on tractorhouse.com but they were all newer exspensive models and far away from me. If I ever see one near me for cheap I will buy it for sure!I could really use a 4x4 at my house. I have a very hilly yard and also my woods is very hilly with a big ravine and a small stream running through it. Any thing I have ever taken back there has always gotton stuck. You have some really nice machines!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update Painted the the rear trans axle
Camera makes the red look like pink but its red


sanded the rear box and spot primed

masked of the middle part of tractor

primed fully


might spray red tomorrow night
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
sprayed red last night



rear box and seat put on tonight







hood put back on




waiting for the decals to be made, and all that is left to to do is engine tins and front axle area for paint which is going to be a nightmare with all of the hoses and cramped spacing. I need a new camera my old one makes the red look like pink and fuzzy
 
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Steiner Guy
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The oldest models were the S16, first one I bought, and S18. I currently own a 420, 425 (50% heavier,) 430 (only 10% heavier than the 420,) and a 525, 10% bigger than the 425. Getting high-centered is easy, but you just push down with the front and/or rear lift, throw rocks or logs under the wheels, and repeat until you're off. I mowed hillsides the sheep wouldn't walk on. If you think that rear axle's jammed, you should see one with the category 0 three-point hich on it!

You're taking pictures with the camera you haven't bought yet (look at the dates!) The 440 will have bigger wheels, by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On my 420 i have the 3 point, but plan on making one for this to. As for high centered never had it happen yet but i did get my 420 stuck in a mud hole, had to get the backhoe out pull it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Little update
The old steiner is done for the most part painted the mower deck for it. So i got board with it and bought two more Steiner projects and picked up another mower deck and a stump grinder.:trink39: Steiner #1 came with a 20hp Onan not running, dealer couldn't figure out why it would not run:dunno: so they sold it for cheap, turns out they had no gas in it. pour some fresh gas in it now purrs like a kitten.:trink40:
Steiner #2 came with a Kohler command 22 with a blown head gasket, fixed that its running good now.
 

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Steiner Guy
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For your info, until this year Steiner used the same transaxle for all their units. The housing costs about $900, the cover, gaskets, and seals about $400, or the assembled unit for $1350 with all the gears inside! The transaxle housings are aluminum, so don't overtorque the bolts, and don't put a long bolt in a short hole or it may cut or crack through into the oil. You can use a 12mm helicoil and bolt to repair a stripped hole.

The only part that's not available for anything before the 430 is the front frame, so don't overload the front hitch. No flip-up 5' or 6' mower, no 4' bucket, no 5' or 6' bulldozer blade. That's why I scrapped my 420 - too many overlapping welds.
 

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Hey there, I was googling for some information on a different brand GT and stumbled upon this thread. I have a old Steiner as well. I have no idea what model or year but the briggs 18hp has a manufacture date of 1982. My father in law bought it back in the late 80s from the original owner and he ran it hard until the late 90s when he started having serious motor troubles so he junked it. Later I found it in the steel scrap pile and pulled it out and cleaned it up. The motor troubles I dealt with for years. Blown head gasket, plugged carb, bad valves. Regardless it tested way low on compression test and had no power at just over 3k hours and then last summer the motor seized and then it broke a rod. This winter I pulled the motor and rebuilt, machined the bores 20 over, crank 20 under with new pistons rods and all new valve train. Basically everything is new except the crank and block which were machined. Before it ran like it was a 5hp and would bog on any load, now it runs like a 20hp and the motor hasn't flinched yet. When I rebuilt the motor I made a new wire harness (proper) with fuses and accessory attachments. I also added a new hour meter with tach. The old is still there working continuing up from 3k, but the new one tells me how many hours are on the new motor as well reminds me of service intervals and shows RPM while running which is handy as the rototiller I made I cannot run past 2.5k RPM or it starts to break. It was made for a 5hp not 20...

I have done other work. I painted it about 8 years ago but you wouldn't know it. Just like some one else said earlier, unfortunately it never spent a day covered in its life so the paint never lasted long, plus I work it hard. It is my snow blower, rough cut mower, manure hauler, garden tiller, driveway grater. One of the aluminum wheel hubs failed this winter and I made a new one out of steel because I couldn't find a supplier. I put a coupler on the rear 3 point hydraulics so if I put the rock box on and cannot use the rear 3 point, I can use the same lever to run the box I made up front. I also made a rototiller for it (belt driven) using an old rototiller that had a blown motor. I could go on an on but I will just show off some pictures instead.


If you want to see more pictures of some of my attachments you can click this imgur.com link and look at a photo gallery I have a box scraper, disker(not pictured) chisel plow, cultivator, drag, and rock box for the back. Up front I have a blade, mower, snow blower, rototiller and box.

If anyone has more information on this steiner I own, like model I would sure be glad to know. Also you said you were getting new decals for your steiner. Where were you getting those from? I would be interested in getting some for the day I re-paint again. :)
 

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Steiner Guy
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1982 seems a little late for an S-18, but they made that model for more than 1 year. I forgot how funny they looked. The part that's squeezed onto the axle is called a bushing; the hub has the wheel studs in it. I thought the wheel bushings were always cast iron, but I've only ever had to replace one because I traded so often. They're a P1 split-taper bushing, often found on ebay, whichever diameter your axle is. I know they used 3 different axle sizes.

I see you have the rear mounting rod for the loader. It makes a good steering pedal for when the steering piston breaks off or tears out of the floor board.

I have a hydraulic three-point hitch mounted rototiller if anyone's interested. It runs off the auxilary power pack for the loader, not the secondary hydraulics. The valve lets you run it backwards for fine tilling, or to throw out a rock. The front tiller tends to go straight down if you hit a soft spot, because of all that weight on the front. Good luck.
 

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No it wasnt a bushing that failed it was the hub. The axle on mine is not tapered but a 1" keyed with no bushing. I got two 1" sprocket hubs, welded them together and then I had a 1" keyed shaft. I then took a 6" sprocket and drilled the holes for the studs and pressed in studs. I got the geometry perfect so no wheel wobble. I welded it all together with gusseting and kept the reciept for a parts list as I am sure another will be breaking. In all it cost me about $55 and I figured that it I couldn't buy the part that cheap even if I could find it. Just to clarify this is the part the wheel bolts to and this part is slipped over the axle shaft and has a nut on the axle holding it on.

"I see you have the rear mounting rod for the loader. It makes a good steering pedal for when the steering piston breaks off or tears out of the floor board."

Are you talking about the rods stick out the sides just behind the front wheels? I put my feel on them occasionally. What are they meant for exactly? I guess I don't follow.

"I have a hydraulic three-point hitch mounted rototiller if anyone's interested. It runs off the auxilary power pack for the loader, not the secondary hydraulics. The valve lets you run it backwards for fine tilling, or to throw out a rock. The front tiller tends to go straight down if you hit a soft spot, because of all that weight on the front."

I thought about doing this but decided I wanted to use the engine to drive it. I also have a float for the front forks so I just set the forks to float and slowly drive backwards. If I am feeling a bit adventurous I will turn left and right as I go back increasing my worked soil area but found this can knock the chain off the tiller in the chain case. So running it like this I haven't had any troubles other than the motor is way to powerful for this little tiller.

"It runs off the auxilary power pack for the loader,"

This sounds very interesting, I have no idea what this is. I have all the factory manuals (mostly hand written) and there is nothing in them describing this.

EDIT: You got me thinking. I pulled the service manual and while it doesn't say s18 in print someone hand wrote S18 and some other numbers on the cover so I am thinking this must be an S18.:thanku:
 

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Steiner Guy
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The axles were never tapered, but they went to a two-piece hub sometime after yours. The manuals for the 420-on-up models are at www.steinerturf.com. Click on Parts, do a Contains search on your model number, and click on the Literature tab. Almost everything but the front frame and wiring harness is still available from Steiner, but most of it is standard industrial parts you can find cheaper. They were sold out 3 times, so the older manuals are only available online, occassionally. If you need to move it without the motor running, put the transaxles in neutral. Wait till you try to replace the deck belt on the mower. (Hint: you have to unbolt the arms on the older mowers.)

The rear of the loader frame fastens to the bar sticking out above the floorboard. They needed something wider than the motor and couldn't use the rear or an underframe like all the other loaders.

Sounds as if you have the tiller kicking toward the engine. The Steiner one kicks forward and weighs 305#. I got tired of going back and my neighbor had this hydraulic-driven one made by Case in the mid-70s, so I converted it and balanced the tractor. My neighbor was complaing about the tire marks when I went forward with the front-mounted one, so I picked it up and went backward. Presto! No tire tracks. Then I had him step into a track I made in the softest dirt to show him that his shoe left a deeper impression!
 
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