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I broke a casting once using a grease hammer. It is safest to remove the steering spindle and then apply grease. More often than not a hard plug about 1/8" long or longer will come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I moved this project along a little bit over the weekend. And was relieved to get the Axle Pivot Bushing out of the front axle casting. It was not easy. I found a 7/8” socket fit inside the casting bore and landed solidly on the bushing. After positioning it and hitting it carefully with an increasingly larger series of hammers, I found the full size sledge moved it ever so little. But it did move. Confidence building I carefully applied a few more blows, Eventually it was out – nothing broken. note the crease in the end of the bushing made by the impact of the 7/8 socket!

The new bushing arrived from Richards, and I bought a grade 8 replacement bolt locally. I chose to buy one long enough so the non threaded shaft would extend far enough so that no threads will be inside the new bushing. I'll use my grinder with a cutting disk on it to shorten the bolt. The threads on the top of one Kingpin shaft are buggered on the very top. I didn't do that. Moving the lock nut up past that was real hard. I'll have to use a die on it to clean it up and use new lock nuts on both sides.

It was obvious the threads were causing additional wear. .


I’m showing both old and new bushings side by side

If you put the old bolt in the old bushing and wiggle it side to side, and then visually extend the minor slop in the shaft there, out the distance to the wheel axles one can see just how much play there is at the wheels. There is barely any slop in the new bolt and bushing. This should help a lot
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have been working on the elements of this project for about three weeks. I only have limited time to spend on it. Each of the 4 bores in the axle casting needed to be carefully cleaned and polished.

The biggest one for the front axle pto drive shaft had a lot of paint inside it from the sloppy paint job of the PO.

The kingpin bores were gunked up with old grease. It is hard to believe grease could ever become so hard, so difficult to remove.

The bore for the axle pivot bushing had the same issues as the kingpins.

Patience, my dremel tool, and several mini-wire brushes later and each is polished clean inside. As I completed each bore I packed it with a clean piece of cotton fabric, soaked in Marvel Mystery oil to keep it ready for assembly.

Today I installed the pivot bushing, and the kingpins, and got the axle re-mounted on the tractor. The pto axle will have to wait as I am having great difficulty in getting it off the 8122 – another story
Here the new pivot bushing is greased and re-installed. I also replaced all the grease zerks


The new upgraded thrust bearing and a washer are packed with grease and installed between the bottom of the kingpin shaft and the axle casting. these are standard on the G series, now they are on my 8183.

Following Richardtx's advice I checked the bearing at the bottom end of the steering wheel shaft. It is encased in a small casting. Here you see it before and during removal. Below I'm holding it on the left of the picture from where it was just unbolted.
Here it is all cleaned up, before I packed it with grease. I have replaced the zerk with a new one. It seemed fine to me, and is a low rpm application so I am re-using it. I need to get this tractor ready to work. The end of the steering wheel shaft slides through it. The center nut in the pictures above is holding the steering shaft in place so the gears of the R&P steering stay aligned.

The marking on the bearing is as follows: U.S.A. - L 5-8 HEIM. I measure the ID bore in the casting at 1.33". the ID inside the swivel in the bearing is .498"


The axle assembly is mounted back on the tractor and there is NO slop or movement side to side at the axle pivot itself. Progress! I hope to find time evenings this week to put the wheels back on and adjust the steering so the tractor gets back into service by next weekend.
 

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When I rebuild the steering on my 8249 I machined new bushings and added thrust bearings to the front spindles. The steering is so easy to turn that it falls between a stock 800/8000 and a 24G in steering effort. I will have to do my other tractors next. It is a bit of a pain as both bushings have to be fitted by hand. The bushings I am referring to are #27 in the diagram below.

I also put in a new bearing #18.


 

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Discussion Starter #26
I also put in a new bearing #18.


Yes Richard #18 the spherical bearing that holds the steering column in place. I left the old one in - for now.

Still I am pleased with how this refurbishment went. The steering on this one is by far the best of my tractors. I am going to go over the 20G in the same fashion.

"Lil Red" is now in the best mechanical condition it has been in since I rescued it. Next to load up the trailer. I am headed for VT this weekend. The Gravelys are ready. :smilie_fl
 

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I know this is an "oldie" but wanted to ask about the axle bushing and its size.

I went ahead and ordered the flat roller bearings and the washers to go on either side for the spindles. But reading the thread leads me to think while it is apart I should address the axle attachment and replace the bushing and possibly the bolt and lock nut. As seen in the pic in post #23.

I will also pull the spherical bearing out at the bottom of the steering column and see about it also. I bought some brass bushings to go in the upright that holds the steering column at the dash also. Not sure if it will work yet but the plastic was pretty beat up so I needed something.



Thanx for the input.

Late entry:
I went ahead and searched up that pivot bushing. $50 by the time it shipped seemed steep. So I wen the ebay route and managed to get a 23237 part number in a bag for substantially less. Couldnt tell if it is the bushing but the bag has the part number on it. We will see when it arrives.
 
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