Stator for 16hp briggs model 326437

5818 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Fla Don, Sep 16, 2010

lewecode

Discussion Starter · Sep 15, 2010

I have a gravely rider that I am not sure what model it is. The hood was repainted (no model # decals). I have a few ?'s.

This tractor runs good when it is cold out, I plowed last winter with no problems. The past 2 summers it ran good , than quits when it warms up. The hotter the day the faster it quits. I had a valve job done 3 years ago, so I am hoping that is still fine.

I changed the magneto and it still quits when it is hot out.
I want to replace the stator. As hot as it gets back there , it makes sense to me that one of those thin windings could be opening once it warms up.

The original owner must have done some wiring changes.The stator that I took off has two wires, (one black and one red). The new stator looks to have two black wires. The wires heading back toward the stator are red and white.
How should the new stator be connected ?

Also I should state that their is no regulator rectifier to be found on this tractor, is that normal ?

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

Fla Don

· #2 · Sep 15, 2010

Red wire is half wave DC. White wire is AC for the lights on the tractor side. There should be a diode in what looks like a fuse holder or a bump on the wire at the plug which is the diode. Those use red on the stator for DC and black for lights. If you have one with two black leads, it needs an external regulator rectifier. Two yellow wire on reg plug into the two black on the stator. Two black wires on reg plug into the tractor harness.

lewecode

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 15, 2010

Fla Don, thanks for the info.

It sounds like my tractor should have a regulator rectifier on it for my new stator. Can you tell me where the regulator rectifiers are usually mounted at ? Looks like I may have to puchase one.

To better describe the wiring on my tractor; the small red wire goes to the solenoid (it's tied into the positive stud and that stud has the big red hot wire that goes up to the battery) , and the white wire goes up to the battery BUT it is NOT connected to anything, it has electrical tape over the end.

Like I said ,this wiring can not be right.

Are you in Ohio now ?, if so what part of OH ?

THANK YOU FOR THE HELP.
Lee

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rscurtis

· #4 · Sep 15, 2010

The stator should have nothing to do with your stalling problem. Next time it stops, quickly turn the engine backwards by hand and see if it has any compression. The fact that it runs longer in cold weather could indicate a tight exhaust valve. Failing that, if you have an ignition problem, you may want to update it to a Magnetron system if it doesn't already have one.

lewecode

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 15, 2010

Thanks rscurtis,
I will try that.

Fla Don

· #6 · Sep 15, 2010

lewecode said:
Fla Don, thanks for the info.

It sounds like my tractor should have a regulator rectifier on it for my new stator. Can you tell me where the regulator rectifiers are usually mounted at ? Looks like I may have to puchase one.

To better describe the wiring on my tractor; the small red wire goes to the solenoid (it's tied into the positive stud and that stud has the big red hot wire that goes up to the battery) , and the white wire goes up to the battery BUT it is NOT connected to anything, it has electrical tape over the end.

Like I said ,this wiring can not be right.

Are you in Ohio now ?, if so what part of OH ?

THANK YOU FOR THE HELP.
Lee

Red wire to solenoid is correct. White wire should go directly to the light switch.

Nope, down south right now. SE Ohio.

Fla Don

· #7 · Sep 15, 2010

rscurtis said:
The stator should have nothing to do with your stalling problem. Next time it stops, quickly turn the engine backwards by hand and see if it has any compression. The fact that it runs longer in cold weather could indicate a tight exhaust valve. Failing that, if you have an ignition problem, you may want to update it to a Magnetron system if it doesn't already have one.

Correct on not being connected. Heat could cause binding on the plunger for the points or a bad condensor could be opening up.

lewecode

Discussion Starter · #8 · Sep 15, 2010

This engine does not have a condensor, and I don't think it has breaker points, but will double check tomorrow. I will see if I can post a few pics of it tomorrow.
Thanks for all the info fellas.

Fla Don

· #9 · Sep 16, 2010

lewecode said:
This engine does not have a condensor, and I don't think it has breaker points, but will double check tomorrow. I will see if I can post a few pics of it tomorrow.
Thanks for all the info fellas.

Briggs hid some of them under a cover under the flywheel.

lewecode

Discussion Starter · #10 · Sep 16, 2010

I was looking for a cover and found one behind the carb. It turns out it is the breather assembly . Their is a black rubber tube that goes from the carb to the breather assembly. I took off the rubber tube from the breather assembly and inside the hole I can see a mess of dirty,oily hair like fibers. Is that stuff some kind of a filter in that breather assembly or should that be clean and free of debree ?

If that is suppost to be clean in their that may be my problem ?

Also how does that small cover for the breather assembly come off ?
Their is a mess of small tabs that seem to keep it in place.

lewecode

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 16, 2010

I answered one of my questions. I found a diagram of what is inside the breather assembly in my service manual on page 33 . There is a filter inside of it.

Now, where can I find this small filter. I suppose I could try to clean it and see how it looks, if I can figure out how to get that breather assembly door off.

yamato72

· #12 · Sep 16, 2010

lewecode said:
I answered one of my questions. I found a diagram of what is inside the breather assembly in my service manual on page 33 . There is a filter inside of it.

Now, where can I find this small filter. I suppose I could try to clean it and see how it looks, if I can figure out how to get that breather assembly door off.

My Onan twin had packing inside it, looked like copper-based steel wool. I soaked it in degreaser and re-used it. I think it is to keep the motor from slinging oil up into the air cleaner.

joemckna

· #13 · Sep 16, 2010

Thank god for this thread. I've been trying to figure out my charging problem on my wheelhorse(Briggs 10 HP) for almost 2 months now. On my set up the red wire has an inline diode/rectifier(goes inside of a fuse type cap with spring). The parts book marks it as a diode, the parts bag says rectifier. Cap says "fuse" on it. Manual says there's a 7.5 amp fuse on the red, but the parts book and illustration does not show a fuse anywhere and I don't know whether or not one goes inside of the "cap with the diode/rectifier". Is the diode/rectifier some how the 7.5 amp fuse?

For the life of me, I have not been able to trouble shoot my charging system. You'll make my week if someone answers that for me. I'll do a victory lap around the neighborhood

raying:

Fla Don

· #14 · Sep 16, 2010

joemckna said:
Thank god for this thread. I've been trying to figure out my charging problem on my wheelhorse(Briggs 10 HP) for almost 2 months now. On my set up the red wire has an inline diode/rectifier(goes inside of a fuse type cap with spring). The parts book marks it as a diode, the parts bag says rectifier. Cap says "fuse" on it. Manual says there's a 7.5 amp fuse on the red, but the parts book and illustration does not show a fuse anywhere and I don't know whether or not one goes inside of the "cap with the diode/rectifier". Is the diode/rectifier some how the 7.5 amp fuse?

For the life of me, I have not been able to trouble shoot my charging system. You'll make my week if someone answers that for me. I'll do a victory lap around the neighborhood raying:

If your system has the holder, you can pull the diode and check for AC between the red lead from the stator and the frame. You should also find AC on the wire that connects to the white wire. The Diode is what goes into the holder if it is the current type with red and black from the stator. Early dual feeds had a fuse there and a seperate regulator. A copy of Briggs' Service Manual for Out of Production Engines 1919-1981 shows them on pg 51&52 of Section 7.

lewecode

Discussion Starter · #15 · Sep 16, 2010

rscurtis or anyone, is their any kind of an additive that could help a sticky valve, if that is my problem ?

One thing I forgot to mention, is that it will bog a little and sputter/ miss and sometimes backfire before it shuts down.Then it won't fire back up until it cools down some. And like I mentioned before, the warmer the outside temp, the faster it does this.

Also, today I noticed that the black rubber tube that goes from the carb to the breather assembly, seems like it is an eighth inch too long, because it kinks almost shut when it is on correctly. I am wondering what would happen if the air flow was restricted though that rubber tube ????

Fla Don

· #16 · Sep 16, 2010

lewecode said:
rscurtis or anyone, is their any kind of an additive that could help a sticky valve, if that is my problem ?

One thing I forgot to mention, is that it will bog a little and sputter/ miss and sometimes backfire before it shuts down.Then it won't fire back up until it cools down some. And like I mentioned before, the warmer the outside temp, the faster it does this.

Also, today I noticed that the black rubber tube that goes from the carb to the breather assembly, seems like it is an eighth inch too long, because it kinks almost shut when it is on correctly. I am wondering what would happen if the air flow was restricted though that rubber tube ????

Take a bottle of 2-stroke 1 gallon mix oil and add it to 2 gallons of gasoline. Or add some Marvel Mystery oil. The hose should just be a breather and not cause problems.

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