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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, well with the new year I'm starting a new project, will be refurbishing the 1958 Country squire mainly working on the hood, its beat up been welded in several places and has numerous layers of paint (I think its a 32nds inch thick) anyway started with using a side arm grinder with a sanding flap wheel to remove the paint and the high areas of weld. EPCO used some real steel in these hoods its a heavy thing.

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Nice project. Looks like you are well on your way. Good luck and it you can, some more pics as you progress.
Thanks for sharing.
 
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That's getting an early start on projects for 2021!! Will be nice to follow along!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got the paint off the hood cleaned it with lacquer thinner someone must have run into something cause the front of the hood is really dented, welded, has a reinforcing strap welded on. So it will take a fair amount of bondo and I got started on that this afternoon, body work is not one of my favorite things to do, I'm not good at it don't have the skills or patience.

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Discussion Starter #5
Sanded on the hood this morning and then gave it a shot of primer, after dinner I checked it over did a little more sanding then gave it another coat of primer. Worked on the engine removed the gas tank, flywheel shroud the cooling tins carb and the cylinder head, was easy to see why it smoked and was using oil there was visible oil on the piston top the cylinder walls look good no ridge so I measured the bore it has wear but am going with a std set of rings. Will pull the engine out of the tractor tomorrow (maybe) did get the bolts from the bellhousing removed.

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You can do the Bondo work, Gary. Just take your time. You can always sand away the boo boos and redo them. The hood is looking good.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Got the hood painted Case Flambeau red it not perfect by any means but good enough for this refurbish working on the gas tank now will paint it this afternoon will post pics of the hood and tank this evening. Will install the switches ammeter etc in the hood this afternoon

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Looking good. And once again, this thread is a big kick in the rear to "start" a project that has been sitting since I first wrote about it It runs, it mows and it leaks -What is it? in2013.
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Then again in 2015 it was on lift table. Link about table with no PB pixs Birthday present from CL
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Where it still resides. Albeit you can hardly see it with all the junk on and around it.
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So once again I tell myself to get going on it. Of course there is a small matter of the patching and repairing the fiberglass body of an Ariens S 14 that I am presently (two months and counting) slowly working on. Good grief I have to say no to all the other projects I work on around the house and for family and neighbors. (The life of a retired man is extremely busy as well as the wife always saying I am slowing down)

But on to the main reason for this post. Which style flap disk do you use or is there a need for both? At least it looks to me like they are two different styles. And as you can see by the paint on the Case, there's a lot of yellow to take off.
Thanks, MikeC

1. vertical


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2. horizontal
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hi I find that a wire wheel is much better than the flap disc, I have not used the top picture type but have used the bottom type they very aggressive and remove the paint pretty fast but leave grind marks/tracks in the metal, my wire wheel was used used up and I didn't want to go to town and get a new one so I used the flapper, looking at the hood in pictures it looks pretty good but up close you can see all the grinding scratches, if I were going for a good restoration it would have required lots of sanding primer, at my age with RA and tendinitis in both shoulders I couldn't get going good luck with your project and by the way the yellow dosn't look bad on the Case but those JD decals need to go :mad:
I have used these with good results https://www.amazon.com/Sanding-Alum...anding+wheel+for+drill&qid=1610470725&sr=8-15

And I really like this type use it with my 1/4" air drills Avanti Pro 4 in. x 1 in. Non-Woven Drill Mount Quick-Strip Disc-PNW040100D01G - The Home Depot
 

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Thanks for the info. I have used wire brushes, both brass and steel for some minor work on couple of tractors but didn't seem to take off the paint like I thought it would. Seemed to melt it then spread it finally removing it. Knowing me I was using to much power, too much speed and not enough time. Have used the woven avanti style with some success. Guess I'm looking for a "less crap in the air" type situation. Thinking of going with a paint stripper but the old style aircraft stripper, while doing a great job, now has me more concerned about fumes. Don't even know if the stuff available now will do anything. Back in the day, working on my old 59 Chevy I was young and invincible so didn't worry about fumes. But sooner or later, better be sooner cause as I hit 76 next month, there probably isn't a lot of later. Gonna have to step up to the plate, and as the Nike ads use to say "Just Do It!"
MikeC
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the switches and ammeter installed in the hood, cleaned up and painted the gas tank and reassembled it then pulled the engine off washed it off and got lots of baked on gunk of I see part of the reason it was so gunky is the breather tube is missing alowing the oil mist to just come out and spread on the engine, also seen the clutch fingers are really worn so will have to weld them up and grind back so that will keep me busy for a while

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Discussion Starter #12
Worked on the clutch this afternoon got the fingers welded up and ground , cleaned the friction disc and its good to go, cleaned the gunk off the flywheel and the pressure plate and they are good to good bought a spare throw out bearing off e bay, I have one in the parts bin but wanted to have a spare on hand. Got all the gunk cleaned off the engine and got it primed will paint it in the morning if I get out they are forecasting rain snow and wind 3-5 inches so we will see.

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