Starter Stopper

1172 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Richard-tx, Dec 16, 2011

RedRider8179KT

Discussion Starter · Dec 15, 2011

The starter on my 8179KT always seemed to struggle in cold weather. This year as soon as the weather cooled, the starter was acting up again, worse than ever. It didn't make a grinding noise, just sort of a rumble or grumble. It barely turned the engine over fast enough to get it started. So I decided to pull the starter and get a handle on the problem. I figured I would just rebuild it with the $24.00 kit from Richards, and life would be good. Instead I had to buy a new one because this is what I found:

:banghead3

Anyone want to buy a slightly used starter for a 17HP Kohler twin? Heck it somehow worked for me with a piece of magnet wire smashed between the rotor and the magnets for 10 years.

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Richard-tx

· #2 · Dec 15, 2011

Ill bet it spins over nice now.

I replaced the starter on my M18 because the bushing were worn so badly that it was gone completely and the end cap had worn too. A new bushing would have been just flopped around in there.

I had a Briggs starter that had worn bushings and that allowed the laminations of the armature to drag on the magnets. That caused the laminations to slice into the windings causing multiple shorts.

Code:

                              [U]Current Inventory[/U]
   24G (Onan 24hp)    24GLX - was 16G  (Onan 24hp)   8249 - was 8129 (Onan 24hp)
        818T (Onan 18hp B48)       8163T - was 8123 (Onan CCKA) 
                              8183T (Onan B48)
   5665 w/brakes        5665        5660        Pro-8         Pro-16 w/brakes

For Gravely Manuals and more visit [url]http://GTCOA.com[/url]

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Richard-tx

· #4 · Dec 15, 2011 (Edited)

A single winding that is grounded on the armature won't necessarily cause things to burst into flames as you might expect. It will cause the starter to overheat quickly due to excessive current consumption and it will not produce the power that might be expected as normal. A lot depends on where the fault is.

An open will cause a dead spot with a loss in power.

I would imagine the commutator also shows evidence of overheating at one or more bars. Evidence of arcing usually means a winding is open.

The old Mopar gear reduction starters were series wound which means that if uncontrolled, the armature would continue to spin faster and faster until the windings were ejected from the armature from the centrifugal force. To keep things under control, a bucking winding was used to keep the speed down to sane levels. If that buck winding failed and the starter switch stuck, the armature would destroy itself. When that happened it was pure carnage inside the motor case.

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Code:

                              [U]Current Inventory[/U]
   24G (Onan 24hp)    24GLX - was 16G  (Onan 24hp)   8249 - was 8129 (Onan 24hp)
        818T (Onan 18hp B48)       8163T - was 8123 (Onan CCKA) 
                              8183T (Onan B48)
   5665 w/brakes        5665        5660        Pro-8         Pro-16 w/brakes

For Gravely Manuals and more visit [url]http://GTCOA.com[/url]

Save

Richard-tx

· #6 · Dec 16, 2011

What I do is to hang onto it. Might need a drive gear one day.

Given the price of a new one, nobody fixes them.

Code:

                              [U]Current Inventory[/U]
   24G (Onan 24hp)    24GLX - was 16G  (Onan 24hp)   8249 - was 8129 (Onan 24hp)
        818T (Onan 18hp B48)       8163T - was 8123 (Onan CCKA) 
                              8183T (Onan B48)
   5665 w/brakes        5665        5660        Pro-8         Pro-16 w/brakes

For Gravely Manuals and more visit [url]http://GTCOA.com[/url]

Save

1 - 3 of 6 Posts

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