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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question #1. What is the best way to remove the old bushing from the aluminum housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Question #2. What is the best way to clean the housing and pole shoes? A pic of the workstation.
 

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Bolens 1886-01
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Question #1. What is the best way to remove the old bushing from the aluminum housing.
If you could get in there with a jig saw blade I would try to make a slit in that bushing, top to bottom then you could simply pry it out with a screw driver.
 

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There are special pullers for that job,that have jaws that expand inside the bushing and you can unscrew it with--I have used a tap to pull them out before,just pick one that is a bit larger than the inside diameter and thread it in...once it bottoms out it should pull the bushing out..use care not to bust the tap off,or damage the bearing housing,as its pretty weak being aluminum..might be able to cave in the bushing with a small screwdriver and extract it also..

Some guys use the method that works on clutch pilot bushings,they pack the bushing with thick grease and drive in a tight fitting rod,and the hydraulic pressure will force it out..but when I have tried it,all I got was splattered with grease!--might not be a good idea to hammer on an aluminum housing either...
 

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Like TH, I have had good luck using a tap. You can clean it with mineral spirits. Soak the whole thing. It won't hurt it. Just dry it good.
 

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Those aluminum end bells are pretty weak. I've taken those bushings out using a combination of a very fine tooth saw to split the bushing and a tap to pull them out.

Be very gentle pushing the new bushing in as it's easy to fracture that casting.

For cleaning the field coils, and the rest of the unit for that matter, I prefer the spray cans of cleaner designed for this purpose.

Mike
 

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I have used a tap to pull them out before,just pick one that is a bit larger than the inside diameter and thread it in...once it bottoms out it should pull the bushing out..use care not to bust the tap off,or damage the bearing housing,as its pretty weak being aluminum.
I use the same method except I put a small washer or nut inside, so the tap doesn't chew up the end.

When you drive in the new bushing, make sure the "cup" that you are driving the bushing into is supported.
 

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Bolens 1886-01
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If you use the tap method couldn't you remove the tap and put a bolt in there then you don't have to worry about breaking the tap off trying to pull it?
 

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I fill the hole with thick grease. Then i take a punch that justs fits in the hole and smack it real hard... This will push the grease down and the grease will push the bushing up... Wrap a rag around the bottom of the punch so the grease dosent splatter you..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I hope to get back to it tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I broke it.:crybaby: I used a 5/8 tap to get the old bushing out. That went very smooth. Then I used a plastic spacer and a rubber mallet to unsert the new bushing. After a test fit the bushing needed to be sunk in another tap or two. Well it should have been just one because on the second tap I felt it give.:banghead3

I tried to line it back up but it is apparently slightly off. If I hand tighten the housing screws the bushing is put in a bind and the armature will not spin.

Bottom line, anybody have one for sale?:praying:

Prefferably just the aluminum plate.
 

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Some of the S/G units use the same rear plate as the old GM generators. You might find one at a wrecking yard. Usually the steel ones will fit as well.

Yours has the vented plate, probably should try for one of those rather than a solid plate.

Mike
 

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Lindeman crawler fan
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If an end plate from an old GM generator from the 70's will work, then I have one.
It is cast iron instead of aluminum and it needs to be repainted but there are no cracks or welds on it.
You can have it for the cost of shipping.



 

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In the second picture Ray posted you will notice a locator pin near the upper edge of the endbell. This and the distance between the two holes the long bolts go thru are usually the important locators for interchange.

Used to rebuild these old generators years ago, lots of them around in those years.

Mike
 

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Thanks Mike.

Measuring with a ruler .. the spread between the center of the two mounting holes looks like 3-1/2 inch.

The distance from the center of the locator pin to the center of the top mounting hole looks like 1 inch.

The diameter of the machined area that fits into the counter-bore on the back of the generator is 3-7/8.

Don ...
If this looks like it will work, send me an email with your address and I'll mail this out to you.
You can send me a check for what ever the postage is marked on it after you get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Mike.

Measuring with a ruler .. the spread between the center of the two mounting holes looks like 3-1/2 inch.

The distance from the center of the locator pin to the center of the top mounting hole looks like 1 inch.

The diameter of the machined area that fits into the counter-bore on the back of the generator is 3-7/8.

Don ...
If this looks like it will work, send me an email with your address and I'll mail this out to you.
You can send me a check for what ever the postage is marked on it after you get it.
Looks like a match. PM on its way!!! Ray, thanks alot, its guys like you that make MTF great.
 

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Lindeman crawler fan
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Looks like a match. PM on its way!!! Ray, thanks alot, its guys like you that make MTF great.
Several members have helped me out over the years.
I'm glad I can finely help someone else out.
 

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Lindeman crawler fan
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Don

Did that generator backing plate work OK ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It was a perfect fit, I bolted it up and bench tested it. Works great. Took it back apart cleaned and painted it, got it back together and have been down with the flu since. Here is how it sits right now.
 

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Lindeman crawler fan
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Looks great.
 
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