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Discussion Starter #1
Stage-5

Reassembly of the Fuel Tank and Main Body,

This is the time to clean your parts. You can be as meticulous as you want here or just wipe the dusty bits off, or somewhere in between.

I washed mine by hand like I was washing a car, I let them dry in the air, reasonably clean. Make sure you keep your fuel tank dry on the inside,

Some water and soap, no scrubbing, wipe clean, and it looks like this,

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Keeping the fuel tank clear is convenient for fuel level checking at a glance. Scrubbing these tanks can roughen the surface and UV treatment, causing the tank to hold more dirt and cloud faster.

My foot trays were dirty too,

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Always protect your electrics, if you do get your electrics wet, Air drying tends to accelerate corrosion.

You can spray them with a WD-40, PB Blaster, or a Fluid film product. I learned this practice from a marine mechanic for protecting my boat electrics in salt water. It works under the principle that oil displaces water.

However, if you live in dusty conditions this could be counter productive in that these oils are a magnet for dirt, Know your area and use your best judgment, keeping the electrics dry to begin with is best practice.

Please review this stage first before starting, to freshen your mind of what to expect.

Lets get started,

1) Install your fuel tank,

Front support bracket,

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Right side fuel tank,

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Right side rear fuel tank,

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Rear fuel tank,

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Left side rear fuel tank,

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Left side fuel tank, the fuel filler neck has an opening at the base that fits over the left main body support.

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It should look like this when ready to move on,

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2) With clean fuel lines and connections, install the main fuel line, having it curve like this,

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3) Install your fuel vapor return line, it will go here where mine of course broke.

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This is your main fuel line, It will travel to the front fuel filter and the fuel pump.

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The other end of the vapor return line goes on the right side of the carburetor (Kawasaki),

4) With your fuel tank still empty, leave the fuel cap off for now, for body install.

The tank will have a tendency to topple toward the fuel fill side, but a slight press down in back when lined up should keep it still for body install, just keep an eye on it during body install.

5) Remove the 4 rear body bolts, 2 on each side,

Right side,

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Left side,

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The two front nuts are in a zip lock bag, if they are on the studs, remove them now and hold on to them for the console. (Stage-6)

6) The vapor return line needs to be secured and not at risk of belts, body squeeze, tires, or lift lever.

The main body weight,

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With the chassis top clean, put the body on front first under pedals and brake cruise release, the studs in front (2) are there to help guide the body down over the fuel tank. Remember to be careful with the threads on those studs.

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Stage-5, Continued on the next reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Stage-5, Continued..

As you lower the rear of the body over the fuel tank, be careful not to pinch the fuel lines and especially the fuel filler neck fuel vapor return line nipple……..

Pay special attention to the body fuel filler opening not pinching that vapor line. This part is critical, so take your time, having a helper here is a plus, it’s awkward, cumbersome, a real pain. Also align these holes to the rear sleeve, for those body bolts.

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And the mower deck lift lever is probably under light spring tension down, at the same time as all the above, lift the lever enough into position to be up and go through it's slot on the main body,

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Tip- If you bungee cord your seat down (secured to body) it will help, anticipate some re-shifting of the fuel tank, and lines.

Don’t attempt to install the rear bolts until the holes line up and the fuel tank, lines, are all where they are supposed to be. Just trying to minimize the risk of cross-threading here.

Once you install the bolts by hand, don’t tighten yet, we want the body to move some, until everything checks and is properly aligned.

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Your rear electrics from the right side,

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Once you put the occupant present safety switch wire in its ready position like this,

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Then it should all look like this,

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7) Control Pedals,

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8) Brake/ Cruise release,

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9) Front studs, (with spacers between the chassis and body)

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10) A look around the Body,

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Stage-5, Continued on the next reply..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stage-5, Continued...

11) Fuel line,

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Plus the vapor return line, not pinched, installed, safe.

12) Fuel filler neck, and the mower deck lift lever raised into position,

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13) Check your transaxle gear side drain bolt and hydro side drain bolts, make sure they were snugged,

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Now that it looks like this,

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And you are satisfied the body is aligned at this point, passing your visual inspection,

14) Tighten the 4 rear body bolts. (the front 2 nuts are not put on until Stage-6)

Right,

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Left, (The two black body bolts)

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15) Complete install of fuel cap now, just push the plastic cord dangle inside and set it,

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16) Test that the cap doesn't pull out,

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17) Tighten cap,

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Done.

Stage-6, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS, Center Console install next Thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Reassembly begins
I did lengthen the vent line about 3/4 inch as the original was under stress
I like the pictures.

A bit of slack in that vent line (3/4" as an example) is a good, quick, inexpensive, prevention. That's an improve, I like it. You have seen first hand that there is enough vibration to cause problems, even though difficult to feel, I'm sure.

:tango_face_smile:
 
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