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Stage-3

Body Removal

1) Remove the reverse pedal by releasing the barb that locks the plastic pedal on to the steel lever,

Pry up here with a straight blade screw driver on one of these, Or one of the nylon tools like I'm using,

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Wiggle the plastic pedal off by prying just enough, not too much, it is plastic and can break with too much force.

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2) Remove rubber hand grip from the mower deck height adjuster arm. It should twist off like a bicycle hand grip. (It shouldn’t be glued, if it is, the handle can be removed once the springs are released by removing a quick clip)

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And here,

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3) With the handle in place, we need to hold the spring tension on the lever in place, this will help in the re-assembly section.

This can be done with a cargo strap, or anything that can safly lock the lever in place. The deck is in the neighborhood of 100lbs and these two springs are the counter weight to that so be aware, what you use will need to hold approximately a 100lbs. (I would not recommend bungee cords)

I have used a cargo strap very successfully (In the thread Beware Husqvarna the build part 2), so this time I will use something also common to home owners just to prove the point, what is common can work. I used common house wire scrap like this,

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Test it’s hold before moving on, very important.

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In the end, if it doesn't hold, but slowly slips like wire can do, don’t panic, when we get ready to put the body back on, a cargo strap can be used to put it back in place.

4) Lift/push operator seat forward, this wire needs to be out of the way,

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This wire is for the operator presence safety switch. You can see here it has the fragile plastic style clasp. I broke mine at the 63hr mark when I first tore this tractor down. I have kept it in place with a zip tie here,

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and here,

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The wire loom has a barbed one way anchor here,

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go here to release it,

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Slide the connector back while lifting up on the connector clasp,

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lay this on top of the fuel tank, out of the way of the body,

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5) Remove the last 4 body bolts in the rear.

Access the two 1/2” (13mm) bolts from each side through the rear wheel wells like this,

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Right side,

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Left side,

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Socket or end wrench (adjustable will work too).

It should look like this on the right,

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and this on the left,

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6) Remove the fuel cap completely.

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(tip, fuel can go stale so don’t leave the cap off long, and of course this would be the wrong time to smoke or bar-b-cue, just saying)

To remove the cap completely, you could use a Torx 20 here, but make sure you secure that line so as to not go inside the fuel tank,

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But I would recommend, using needle nose pliers on this,

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Fish out the bottom of the fuel cap plastic tether. Grab a side with your needle nose pliers and grab an end that can be carefully lift up and out. This keeps it all attached. Now the body is ready to be lifted off with a few obstacles to be aware of.

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Keep the fuel tank from rising with the body and don’t let the body crush the fuel filler neck breather nipple on the fuel tank filler neck here, (like I did at the 63hr mark) If you do break it, don’t panic, I have a modification for it too, that actually works, plus reinforces the area. (in the build part 2 also)

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If you zip tie this short, you can easily put it on and take it off while working on it,

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The lifting of the body is best done with 2 people, it can be done by yourself, but will be a pain. Lift from the rear left corner first (fuel filler neck side) maintaining control on the fuel filler neck and the fragile breather nipple on a $200 fuel tank. While you lift on the body carefully push down on the fuel filler neck, this will separate the fuel tank from rising with the body, and don’t let the body come down on accident (broke breather nipple).

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The fuel tank rests in place without any securing brackets, using the body to hold it down.

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As you are lifting from the corner, apply pressure on the brake pedal pushing it out of the way (the idea is a process of release in a clock-wise motion),

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lift transition toward the right side, being carefull not to harm those console studs by rubbing the body metal on them and lift off completely.

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It will look like this,

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Fuel Tank Removal,

Note, I did install hard fuel lines but the connection points are the same on top of the fuel tank and where the fuel filter is (at least for now). If interested in the modifications I’ve done please PM me and I will be happy to help)

Now the breather line can be safely disconnected, its just fuel vapor return for EPA, The gravity is accomplished through your gas cap, there won’t be any fuel and it should look like this, (ish)

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Set that line asside.

With needle nose pliers, remove the main fuel line in the middle on top here,

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Slide the spring band back an inch, carefully twist the hose side to side to break it’s connection loose first before pulling off the fuel line nipple. (the nipple is also fragile, if you break it, don’t panic, a new piece can be purchased) have a fuel container handy to drain into, it may be a very small amount of fuel. These lines are 1/4”.

The tank can be lifted up and drained into your fuel container through the fill neck.

Note- my main fuel line has double zip ties, yours most likely has a metal spring band, if you have zip ties too, be careful not to cut the rubber fuel line when removing. If you do don’t panic, a good clean 1/2” or so cut on the fuel line end will get you back to a clean connection, of course check the slack to see if you have enough, or have a new line ready, it’s cheap.

After the line drains I block it to keep clean,

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Golf tees work well, Gorilla tape, vacumm caps on vacum tees, etc.

Also, If you don’t have a fuel funnel with a filter (another good recommend) then wipe the fuel tank clean before you pour the fuel back in your container, this will help keep your fuel free of contaminates.

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When done the fuel tank can be cleaned with soap and water on the outside if you want, but make sure you plug the breether nipple on the fill neck, plug the main fuel feed going in the tank, and put the fuel cap on.

You now have plenty of room to work!

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This is the place you need to be in order to service your K66.

Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS is next. Stage-4 is servicing your K66 transaxle.
 

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Wow. Makes me so glad my 2 GT's are both manual transaxle.

Great write up.

Del
 

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What a crazy process. If I owned one of these machines I would be so thankful for your write-up!
I am an owner of one of these machines, TS354XD, and I am thankful for all of the time and :thanku:effort that is being put into this. Thing is for people with other machines, using the same or similar transmission, they can add specific instructions for their make and model of machine and add to it to help other members.

Thumbs up for FLHusqGT
 

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What a crazy process. If I owned one of these machines I would be so thankful for your write-up!
I'll never complain about my 15min hydro oil and filter change on the XT3, that's for sure.
 

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What a crazy process. If I owned one of these machines I would be so thankful for your write-up!
I'll never complain about my 15min hydro oil and filter change on the XT3, that's for sure.
Right? I'll say one big thing for the XT3, it's easy to perform maintenance on!

Husqvarna builds a beautiful machine, I don't understand the corners they cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I sincerely thank all of you for your interest and responses.

Wow. Makes me so glad my 2 GT's are both manual transaxle.

Great write up.

Del
It's funny you say this, It was the manual transaxle that was on my first lawn tractor (Ariens 17.5hp 42" 6spd) that I recently had to take to the recyclers, I kept it. They can't have it....I don't know what I'll do with it, but it was bullet proof. It's the little Transaxle that could:tango_face_smile:

I am an owner of one of these machines, TS354XD, and I am thankful for all of the time and :thanku:effort that is being put into this. Thing is for people with other machines, using the same or similar transmission, they can add specific instructions for their make and model of machine and add to it to help other members.

Thumbs up for FLHusqGT
I think you're onto something here.

What I appreciate about the GT class of tractor is their simplicity. I really believe, the average person using one of these machines might catch the "bug" of experiencing what they are capable of. Going from chore to Hobby.

I can't think of a better way than to be inspired to learn the basics of maintenance and then tackling the "impossible" or at least what that may mean to the average owner. I think this might lead to the question, "I wonder If"..... Now you caught the "bug"!

If I owned one of these machines I would be so thankful for your write-up!
Overwhelming right? I can't help think how good it will feel to those that do have this machine, after accomplishing this service and knowing your transaxle is healthy!

In the mean time, I will be developing a way to try and create easy access for the job, with the same agenda in mind. The average owner, with average tools, and little to no-skill, can do it. At least for those that would be interested.

I'll never complain about my 15min hydro oil and filter change on the XT3, that's for sure.
Right? I'll say one big thing for the XT3, it's easy to perform maintenance on!

Husqvarna builds a beautiful machine, I don't understand the corners they cut.
I've looked at that Hydro oil filter location and the access for oil change, that's a win for both the consumer and the manufacturer.

Husqvarna does build a beautiful machine. :tango_face_wink:

Cheers,
 

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I've looked at that Hydro oil filter location and the access for oil change, that's a win for both the consumer and the manufacturer.
Cheers,
With the way manufacturers try to treat owners like they are incapable of doing the hydro oil change it's amazing that they made it serviceable. The Cub BDU-10 filter is ~$13. I looked to see if the JD K72 was serviceable and was shocked to see the filter element was $45. But at least it's easily accessible.

I feel like the K46 hydro wouldn't have such a bad rep as it does if it was easily serviceable. Synthetic fluid after ~30hrs of use would probably save a ton of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
With the way manufacturers try to treat owners like they are incapable of doing the hydro oil change it's amazing that they made it serviceable. The Cub BDU-10 filter is ~$13. I looked to see if the JD K72 was serviceable and was shocked to see the filter element was $45. But at least it's easily accessible.

I feel like the K46 hydro wouldn't have such a bad rep as it does if it was easily serviceable. Synthetic fluid after ~30hrs of use would probably save a ton of them.
On that K46, I think you nailed it! And as difficult as it is to service it, you can, it has a schedule too, but it might not be worth the trouble unless it was at the working volume of a K66, but then at that price get the K66. Crazy.

The Cub filter is an automotive type?, I think. Makes sense.

The K72, yeah, its a wow, but the good news for them is that a simple add on can be done to have that affordable automotive type filter in line, also a cooler, making use of the center case that is stock on the K72 (accessory ports, pumping oil outside the transaxle).

The K66 can have the center case to do the same thing as K72, and of course the K664 does (4X4 system for Simplicity). Its approximately $600 to upgrade a K66 for this, and if you risk used, then you risk the lack of maintenance from a prior owner, Right?

I think the K66 with center case could have been successful for power steering and such, if the maintenance were to be performed. Instead people were sold on it being maintenance free too, kind of didn't stand a chance.

There are things we can do with what is available, but they don't make it easy for us, right?

The other thing I would want, a sufficient reservoir/ sump for the working oil. The K72 has close to double the sump size and I think that helps add to the long term success of the unit. I haven't looked at the BDU 10 hard, do you have accessory ports? What is the working sump for it?
 

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On that K46, I think you nailed it! And as difficult as it is to service it, you can, it has a schedule too, but it might not be worth the trouble unless it was at the working volume of a K66, but then at that price get the K66. Crazy.

The Cub filter is an automotive type?, I think. Makes sense.

The K72, yeah, its a wow, but the good news for them is that a simple add on can be done to have that affordable automotive type filter in line, also a cooler, making use of the center case that is stock on the K72 (accessory ports, pumping oil outside the transaxle).

The K66 can have the center case to do the same thing as K72, and of course the K664 does (4X4 system for Simplicity). Its approximately $600 to upgrade a K66 for this, and if you risk used, then you risk the lack of maintenance from a prior owner, Right?

I think the K66 with center case could have been successful for power steering and such, if the maintenance were to be performed. Instead people were sold on it being maintenance free too, kind of didn't stand a chance.

There are things we can do with what is available, but they don't make it easy for us, right?

The other thing I would want, a sufficient reservoir/ sump for the working oil. The K72 has close to double the sump size and I think that helps add to the long term success of the unit. I haven't looked at the BDU 10 hard, do you have accessory ports? What is the working sump for it?
The BDU-10 and 21s have a hydraulic spin-on oil filter and a cast iron differential that holds 4.5qts counting the filter volume. The BDU-10 in the XT3 doesn't have an auxiliary hydraulic circuit like the older 3000 series BDU-21 does. I'm adding a hydraulic bucket to my 3240 and will add an extra 2qt reservoir to the system by adding a banjo to replace the drain plug and plumbing into a separate tank like the one below.

https://www.amazon.com/RYANSTAR-Universal-Expansion-Overflow-Reservoir/dp/B0197YXZJC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=2.5l+coolant+tank&qid=1571339983&s=automotive&sr=1-1&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Kinugawa-Turbo-Coolant-M14x1-5-Fitting/dp/B071H9V3WT/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=m14x1.5+banjo+barb&qid=1571340294&s=automotive&sr=1-2
 

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Stage 3 all but done.
I did a couple changes in the process; The yoke that goes across the fuel tank, if left in position limits the fuel tank movement to less than 1/4 inch while removing the body pan, less chance of damage to the breather nipple on the fuel tank.
To avoid the brake pedal being in the way, I depressed the brake and used my finger to engage the brake lock, this kept the pedal depressed and clear of the body pan. Once I raised the rear of the body pan, I slid a 2x4 cutoff under it so that it could not drop on the breather nipple.

I also found why my PTO fuse blew with no apparent reason
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stage 3 all but done.
I did a couple changes in the process; The yoke that goes across the fuel tank, if left in position limits the fuel tank movement to less than 1/4 inch while removing the body pan, less chance of damage to the breather nipple on the fuel tank.
To avoid the brake pedal being in the way, I depressed the brake and used my finger to engage the brake lock, this kept the pedal depressed and clear of the body pan. Once I raised the rear of the body pan, I slid a 2x4 cutoff under it so that it could not drop on the breather nipple.

I also found why my PTO fuse blew with no apparent reason
I'm glad to here more success, and good thinking on that scrap wood to create some insurance.

The need you encountered to have to remove your seat from the body has made it possible for keeping the "yoke" attached over the fuel tank and holding down the fuel tank while lifting the body for breather nipple protection, this is a better idea, I like it. The body must have been even lighter (seat removed) making that process easier?

That picture of the PTO wire rub is another good reason for the top down process, among so many, and yet I think I may have a simple $100 solution to make the K66 as accessible as the K72 is on the JDX500 series making this process unnecessary (more on that later, plus I want to prove it out on mine before I reveal it).

This PTO wire is a simple thing to remedy and when you have your tractor back together, you'll know it's right, and good for the next 150 hrs or so. I'm glad you found that, Fastenal has the high temp engine bay triple thick shrink wrap, if you have one convenient, or your shop? Or, if your handy with stock connectors, West Marine has 10ga (or other sizes) of 2 wire by the foot, this is the stuff I use for my JB products, quality is very good and it is double insulated wire, easy to route and tidy looking (two wires inside an outer case), just some thoughts.

Do you have a picture of your bare bones tractor?
 
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