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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a question on a snapper sr140 33 inch cut rear engine mower. I just picked up this mower and it runs great for the most part. The guy I got it from fixes mowers on the side. He did a lot of work and it ran great there. I have one issue and I don't think its a major problem. When I got it home I tried it out. I have areas where the grass has got high, maybe 6 inches. Anyway I was having a issue as I was mowing in the grass I think the belt was slipping and almost sounded like grinding but I don't think it was. Once the belt started smoking bad. I am thinking it is just slipping as he said he put a new disc or clutch in I think he said. He also put on a new belt and blade. So am I right in thinking I need to adjust the belt or does it have another issue? The engine runs really good and the blade seems tight and not wobbly. What can I check out?

Update, I went out to look at it. This is one that has the square frame and not a tube. I looked at the bolt underneath that you are suppose to loosen and shim. The bolt was not tight and it has washers that were loose. It was causing it to be way too loose. I will make some shims and try it again.
 

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Welcome,to the forum.First of all "SR140",is just an advertising number,doesn't mean much. What we really need is a "model number".you'll need to know the "series" to buy parts,ask us things,and all that look at it well and see if you can find a "tag" with some numbers,not on the engine,that's something you need to know too,but only to find parts for the engine. The correct number should be something like "331415 BE,the 33 is the deck size,the 14 the horsepower,the 15,the series,and the BE would be Briggs engine,with electric start.There are some differences,in the "belt tightening" mechanisms,as you can see from the page from the series 13,parts manual(and yours should be similar),the "square
tube" mowers have a round part where it pivots. This can slide to tighten the belt.then secure the adjustment,a lot use shims,and some dont,and have a "clamp arrangement". if you get into grass,and weeds too heavy the blade can "jam,and the belt will slip,or lock up which usually kills the engine,if the belt is tight. If you think the belt is slipping,get off the "lock pedals" quickly,or the belt can develop "flat spots" which makes it vibrate,or if it slips enough to make a cloud of smoke,it can ruin the belt. I just had to change my belt yesterday,due to the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I have to leave out now or I would go out and look for the model. Anyway the diagram above is the way it is made. I checked that bolt that the shims were on and it was loose. I need some shims so I will get some for it or make them. Hopefully it didn't do any damage to the belt as it was new. I will need to reset it and try again. I will post a follow up when I do.
 

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The nut #44 is behind the "main case" and don't let the bolt "bottom out",it's a "shoulder bolt" the shims shouldn't be ultra tight,they have to let the tube pivot,the "shim washers help keep the tension right without the tube being restricted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I went out to tinker with it some. The 37 bolt was loose so I tightened it. I started a few rounds and it ran fine and cut good until the belt snapped. He did give me another belt so I plan to put that on next week. Another day of having to work on a mower before I can even mow. The model is a 3312511be .
I hope at this point I didn't buy a lemon.
 

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Sometimes,there are days like that,what's worse is when it's new,LOL. It seems to be a series 11,there are manuals you can download,see the "sticky" on the index page,they're free. I looked at the same page I posted for the 13 and it looks just like the series 11. If you want the "service manual" the "series 4,5,6& later is the latest one available,it's better for the earlier series,but with the parts,and owners,you can usually figure it out.The drive line stuff is pretty much the same for all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update. I went out and slipped the new belt on. It was way too loose. I then pulled the front end out to make it tight. I slipped some washers in the space as I don't have shims yet. It ran fine but did smoke a little. He had put a new rubber piece in the drive part so I think it was that spinning. I got it out of gear really fast so it didn't smoke much. I did notice that it seems to "chatter" like a bearing is going out on a pulley. I noticed the smaller pulley does seem to have a slight amount of play. I raised it up and down and it seems to wobble about a width of a pencil lead or slightly less. I think what may be going on is a combination of things.The pulley has play and causes chatter in slightly higher grass, the new parts are getting broke in so they may smoke a little and lastly it didn't have the shims in it. I think after replacing the pulley and adding shims it probably will work great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fixed!! I went by and got the idler pulley today. I also got a spare belt. I put the new pulley on and ran it probably 30 minutes. The grass was slightly wet and it still cut great. Only issue is I put it in reverse and forgot to let the mower foot pedal come up . It threw off the belt on the motor shaft. I had the cover off working on it so I just slipped the belt off the cutter pully for slack then slipped it back on the motor pulley. I then put it back over the cutter pulley and no issues. So I think the two issues was the belt was way too loose and the idler pulley was going out. It never made the chatter sound. So it was a great deal for me. Less than half the going rate of a new cheap made one and may be the only one I will ever own. I plan on just replacing the motor if it ever goes out. Thanks for the replies.
 
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