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Old Iron Connoisseur
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that in the past some have asked about split rims. While I was mounting up some 16x6.50-8 turfs yesterday I figured I'd pop a few pictures to help others out.

First, make sure the rims are clean! Working with a rusty, dirty old rim will make the job very hard. Spend the time to clean and repaint your rims. I speak from experience on this one.

Second, get new tubes if they are over 2 years old. I know times are tight but again this will make life much easier.

Third, used good bolts. The last thing you want to do is get the rim compressed and then fight your split bolts to get the nut started.

Forth, lube the tire bead. I use tire wet as I normally have it in the shop somewhere and I find it allows me to make slight adjustments in the splits as I compress them. You can use dish soap and water, glass cleaner, anything helps.

Fifth, use a valve stem tool to hold the tube valve stem. With compressing the rim halves, lining up the rims, and not pinching the tubes you don't want to have to worry about the tube falling into the tire. Not 100% necessary, but I find it nice not to worry about it.

Sixth, use line up tools. A few screw drivers, steel rod, something! I find this makes it very easy to just press the rim down and get some bolts started. Then before you tighten them down you can use the line up rods to make slight adjustments to make sure the rim splits are even.

Since I left the camera in large mode.. just click HERE and HEREfor pictures of the assembly.
 

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I Love All Color Tractors
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22,321 Posts
All good advice. :fing32:

Thanks for posting and sharing the photos.
 

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Just added duals to my L8. The valve stem hole was rusted out, so I got a big outside diameter washer and welded it to the outside of the rim, still had good metal where I welded it. Bead blasted the inside and outside of the rims and used JB Weld to fill in any rust pits, smoothed out the JB Weld and primed and painted them. I used "O" ring lube to lube the tire beads and the rims. I put the rims on my milling machine table and used 3 long pieces of all thread rods to keep everything lined up. Made a tool out of metal banding material bent at 90 degrees and used this tool to slip between the rim flanges to insure the tube were not getting pinched while pulling the 2 rims together. Put a rag under the rim that is against the milling table insures you will not scratch the new paint. I also add a little talc to the tubes to insure they slid inside the tire easily. I inlflate them several times with the valve core out to seat the tire and tube. Put the valve core in and inflate and your are good to go.

BUD
 

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Old Iron Connoisseur
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2,785 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just added duals to my L8. The valve stem hole was rusted out, so I got a big outside diameter washer and welded it to the outside of the rim, still had good metal where I welded it. Bead blasted the inside and outside of the rims and used JB Weld to fill in any rust pits, smoothed out the JB Weld and primed and painted them. I used "O" ring lube to lube the tire beads and the rims. I put the rims on my milling machine table and used 3 long pieces of all thread rods to keep everything lined up. Made a tool out of metal banding material bent at 90 degrees and used this tool to slip between the rim flanges to insure the tube were not getting pinched while pulling the 2 rims together. Put a rag under the rim that is against the milling table insures you will not scratch the new paint. I also add a little talc to the tubes to insure they slid inside the tire easily. I inlflate them several times with the valve core out to seat the tire and tube. Put the valve core in and inflate and your are good to go.

BUD
Bud-

O-ring lube, milling machine... :not_worth

Good point about the rag under the bottom rim... I have them all over the wooden work bench. I often forget the powder too... 95% of the time the tubes are new and they are already lightly powdered for me and adding about removing the valve core. Helps to let the air between the tube and tire escape and the tube to sort itself out. Great points you add. Thanks for alternative ways of attacking the problem with threaded rod and such.

Same basic idea I think... you just have the facilities to do it a bit more professionally than I do. :fing32:
 

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Jimmy, I restore Hit&Miss engines and I am always having to machine something. You can mark the 3 holes on a piece of plywood and bolt the all thread through the plywood and use this jig to align the rims. Lathe, mill, bead blaster, and a 4200 PSI pressure washer makes life a lot easier.

BUD
 

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Old Iron Connoisseur
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have access to a blast cabinet. Several commercial pressure washers (3500 psi at 4 gpm) Good friend has a mill and a lathe.. also good friends with the local machine shop. Through some old John Deere's, hit and miss, old military vehicles, etc... I just dream of a shop big enough to house the tools and still be able to move around. Right now I'm stuck in a 16' x 16' shop on a single 15 amp circuit at the house. To do much of anything I have to take a ride.
 
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