My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Up until about 2 years ago, I'd never owned property where I thought I might need any kind of tractor (or even riding mower). I did some research back then and ended up with a 2008 x740 with click-n-go brackets and 7-Iron deck that I bought for $4,000 as a mower-plus type of rig. It needed a little TLC, but overall I've been more than happy with it as a mower.

Fast forward, and now I have a handful of wife-approved projects in the pipeline, and permission to spend some more money. I have a Buford Bucket being built sometime in the next few weeks, a lockout valve and Ruegg hitch on the way, and I'll go get my Carlisle Field Trax tires sometime this week.

So here's what I think I know is left.

At some point in the pretty near future, I think I'll want a box blade. This for minor grading, but mostly spreading dirt / gravel, and driveway maintenance. I'm thinking 4ft Frontier here, but I'm happy to hear other recommendations - especially if you think a box blade isn't what I should be after (I know a guy who thinks I should be looking at a rear blade).

I think I also want a subsoiler for trenching pipe, irrigation, etc. Lots of it, a little at a time.

I currently have nothing set up for ballast, either front or back. I wonder if I really need to get into that if I run both FEL and box blade together though.

I'm kind of thinking the offset Heavy Hitch and their subsoiler, adding weights if and when that need arises... It all seems a little spendy though for what it is, so I'd love to hear arguments either for or against. Again, I'm still learning (which is why I'm always looking at MTF :))

I'm happy to provide more context where necessary. Meanwhile, tell me, what would you do with my money?

Thanks,

Bill
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,447 Posts
For driveway maintenance a box blade is the way to go. 4 feet will do great! Got pictures?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
21,841 Posts
Load the tires with Rim Guard. A Buford Bucket sticks a long way out front and a box blade alone is not enough to counter payload in the bucket.

My GT with loader and back blade is 12'-2" long, and I drop the back blade when maneuverability is required. Your rig will be longer and you will really, really want that weight in the rear tires, and then some, if you ever have to work with limited space.

Look for a set of wheel weights too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
492 Posts
I have a JD 332 with a Buford Bucket and I agree you are going to need rear weight to offset a full bucket . I move a fair amount of dirt on my property with it . I have two 50 lb wheel weights and 7 gallons of windshield washer fluid in each rear tire . I have a 3 point weight box that I made that has 160 lbs of concrete in it . I also have three suitcase weights and one slab-o-steel weight . My butt weighs 220 and with all that going down any kind of incline with the bucket full can be a challenge . In the future I will add 2-3 more suitcase weights .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,306 Posts
Load the tires with Rim Guard. A Buford Bucket sticks a long way out front and a box blade alone is not enough to counter payload in the bucket.

My GT with loader and back blade is 12'-2" long, and I drop the back blade when maneuverability is required. Your rig will be longer and you will really, really want that weight in the rear tires, and then some, if you ever have to work with limited space.

Look for a set of wheel weights too.
I just moved 15 yards of mulch with a Buford Bucket and had no weights on the back of my X495 and it did fine with a full bucket of mulch. I think the weight issue really depends on what you are lifting though as far as weight. No weight in tires, I do have rear wheel weights how ever. 75lb cast iron wheel weights.

OP also might want to get a Hydrostatic relief valve for his x740 and Free-Wheeling Valve Control Lever.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Load the tires with Rim Guard. A Buford Bucket sticks a long way out front and a box blade alone is not enough to counter payload in the bucket.

My GT with loader and back blade is 12'-2" long, and I drop the back blade when maneuverability is required. Your rig will be longer and you will really, really want that weight in the rear tires, and then some, if you ever have to work with limited space.

Look for a set of wheel weights too.
I have a JD 332 with a Buford Bucket and I agree you are going to need rear weight to offset a full bucket . I move a fair amount of dirt on my property with it . I have two 50 lb wheel weights and 7 gallons of windshield washer fluid in each rear tire . I have a 3 point weight box that I made that has 160 lbs of concrete in it . I also have three suitcase weights and one slab-o-steel weight . My butt weighs 220 and with all that going down any kind of incline with the bucket full can be a challenge . In the future I will add 2-3 more suitcase weights .
Thanks, guys. I did fill out the RimGuard form to find a dealer in the area, but I never got the email they were supposed to send... Maybe I'll try to call instead. Otherwise I guess I'm okay using washer fluid. No problem running with that plus wheel weights full-time even when the loader isn't attached?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I just moved 15 yards of mulch with a Buford Bucket and had no weights on the back of my X495 and it did fine with a full bucket of mulch. I think the weight issue really depends on what you are lifting though as far as weight. No weight in tires, I do have rear wheel weights how ever. 75lb cast iron wheel weights.

OP also might want to get a Hydrostatic relief valve for his x740 and Free-Wheeling Valve Control Lever.

There's a Free-Wheeling Valve control lever on there already, unless I misunderstand the part you're recommending. I've read about that THRV valve, but somebody told me I probably didn't actually need it for my application. Probably cheap insurance though, thanks for pointing it out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,306 Posts
There's a Free-Wheeling Valve control lever on there already, unless I misunderstand the part you're recommending. I've read about that THRV valve, but somebody told me I probably didn't actually need it for my application. Probably cheap insurance though, thanks for pointing it out.
You need the new control lever too..........the one on there now won't work with new Valve............I know, my old valve and lever are sitting on my work bench......
2-wheel drive tractor
BW15043 valve
M146148 lever
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
You need the new control lever too..........the one on there now won't work with new Valve............I know, my old valve and lever are sitting on my work bench......
2-wheel drive tractor
BW15043 valve
M146148 lever
Ah, okay. Now I see. Thanks again! (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
672 Posts
Lots of people swear by their box blades. If you get one, be prepared for needing a LOT of learning/practice before what you end up with looks better than when you started. When I first got my CUT (about 2 class sizes bigger than a X740) I borrowed my neighbor's box blade. I found it VERY hard to control. It amplified the low points and the high points. I have heard that you really need top-n-tilt to use it well. A minimum would be an easily adjustable top link to change how aggressive it is. The 3PH control is even less easy to use on the X740 than on my B2620 (1/4 inching valve) which is much less easy to use than position control. Since you have a X740, you will be limited by the traction it can maintain with its relatively low weight. A box blade full of gravel will likely cause it to lose traction, which will make a low spot where the tires dig in and a high spot where you lift the box blade to get the traction to move forward. With deft control of the 3PH, you can fix and/or prevent this. But it takes time to build the skill to do that. Watching even 10 videos is probably not enough for most people.

I like my LandPride GS1548. It is great for making it easy to maintain my 1/4 mile of driveway. But, I have a much larger tractor. I like the LP GS (grading scraper) because it really is easy to use. It took me about an hour of using it to make things look better (a lot better). Having used it for many hours now, I understand how to get the results I want quicker. If you have slope changes in your driveway, more adjustment is needed, but much less than with a box blade.

Many people say the rear blade is best. I can see that it would be good for many things, but really fixing potholes not so much. To really fix a pot hole, you have to dig it out. The rippers on my GS can do that. You need a REALLY heavy rear blade to do that, and that would likely be too much for an X740. Think at least 100lbs/foot of width. A box blade is probably okay for ripping out a pot hole and making it look okay. The GS can do that and then plane the whole road smooth, but the material needs to be dry enough to flow smoothly. Here in the PNW that means July to October. When it's wet, I will only use it for spot jobs.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,896 Posts
I currently have nothing set up for ballast, either front or back. I wonder if I really need to get into that if I run both FEL and box blade together though.



Thanks,

Bill
Here are some thing That will cost your wallet less but Give You what You want Curl Lockout Valve Aftermarket Front End Loaders On John Dee The Link I Posted will allow You to shut off the Curl function and allow You to Use the 3 point Independently of the Loader Here is another recommended accessory That can also Give You the ability to Use Both Improved Remote Mount Lockout Valve Kit for 425, 445, and 45 I am showing the Kit for the 425 thru 455 But he does Make One for Your X740 Just think he is out of Kits right now for the X465 thru X749 so He doesn't Have them On the site or You Can Invest In this Heavy Duty Lockout Valve For Loader Lift Applications 425 - and It will lock Out Your 3 Point Hitch without having to Lock the 3point Up with the thread rod depth stop On Your 3 Point Hitch. The Deere OEM version is more of a diverted Valve as You 3 Point will still move as some Hydraulic fluid still goes to the On Board Cylinder Now He also Make this NEW! H3 KIT for JOHN DEERE 425, 445, 455 GARDEN TRACTOR-4X5 for the 425 thru 455 I would ask Him If It could be adapted to Your X740 since the 425 thru 455 Have a similar Frame set Up Underneath the fender deck That would Give You true Independent control of the 3point Hitch. Personally I Just use the curl Lock Up Valve and the 3point Hitches On Board threaded Rod Depth stop Though I Probably will eventually Put On a Remote Mount Lockout Valve Kit On My X748 Not That I really need to Because I also Have a JD 2025R Compact tractor and I Can use the 3point Independently of the Loader On that tractor. But I usually have the Backhoe Mounted On it In the summer so I use the 3point More On the X748 (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
Thanks, guys. I did fill out the RimGuard form to find a dealer in the area, but I never got the email they were supposed to send... Maybe I'll try to call instead. Otherwise I guess I'm okay using washer fluid. No problem running with that plus wheel weights full-time even when the loader isn't attached?
I have washer fluid in all 4 tires on my X475 and all 4 on my X748. I have no loader I just want weight for snow duty and it helps lower center of gravity in ditches. Washer fluid is cheap, but it doesn't weigh as much as rim guard. Also if you do do the washer fluid make sure you get the winter mix, even if you live where it dont freeze. If you use the summer blend and somehow it gets into the cold someone will have a bad day.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Lots of people swear by their box blades. If you get one, be prepared for needing a LOT of learning/practice before what you end up with looks better than when you started. When I first got my CUT (about 2 class sizes bigger than a X740) I borrowed my neighbor's box blade. I found it VERY hard to control. It amplified the low points and the high points. I have heard that you really need top-n-tilt to use it well. A minimum would be an easily adjustable top link to change how aggressive it is. The 3PH control is even less easy to use on the X740 than on my B2620 (1/4 inching valve) which is much less easy to use than position control. Since you have a X740, you will be limited by the traction it can maintain with its relatively low weight. A box blade full of gravel will likely cause it to lose traction, which will make a low spot where the tires dig in and a high spot where you lift the box blade to get the traction to move forward. With deft control of the 3PH, you can fix and/or prevent this. But it takes time to build the skill to do that. Watching even 10 videos is probably not enough for most people.

I like my LandPride GS1548. It is great for making it easy to maintain my 1/4 mile of driveway. But, I have a much larger tractor. I like the LP GS (grading scraper) because it really is easy to use. It took me about an hour of using it to make things look better (a lot better). Having used it for many hours now, I understand how to get the results I want quicker. If you have slope changes in your driveway, more adjustment is needed, but much less than with a box blade.

Many people say the rear blade is best. I can see that it would be good for many things, but really fixing potholes not so much. To really fix a pot hole, you have to dig it out. The rippers on my GS can do that. You need a REALLY heavy rear blade to do that, and that would likely be too much for an X740. Think at least 100lbs/foot of width. A box blade is probably okay for ripping out a pot hole and making it look okay. The GS can do that and then plane the whole road smooth, but the material needs to be dry enough to flow smoothly. Here in the PNW that means July to October. When it's wet, I will only use it for spot jobs.
Thanks very much for this. Yes, I was expecting to flop around a little with the box blade. Or rear blade, or grading scraper, as far as that goes. :)

Point taken on traction, but I don't really see a bigger tractor in my future. Maybe I'll start with the rear blade and end up with a box blade too at some point down the road...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Here are some thing That will cost your wallet less but Give You what You want Curl Lockout Valve Aftermarket Front End Loaders On John Dee The Link I Posted will allow You to shut off the Curl function and allow You to Use the 3 point Independently of the Loader Here is another recommended accessory That can also Give You the ability to Use Both Improved Remote Mount Lockout Valve Kit for 425, 445, and 45 I am showing the Kit for the 425 thru 455 But he does Make One for Your X740 Just think he is out of Kits right now for the X465 thru X749 so He doesn't Have them On the site or You Can Invest In this Heavy Duty Lockout Valve For Loader Lift Applications 425 - and It will lock Out Your 3 Point Hitch without having to Lock the 3point Up with the thread rod depth stop On Your 3 Point Hitch. The Deere OEM version is more of a diverted Valve as You 3 Point will still move as some Hydraulic fluid still goes to the On Board Cylinder Now He also Make this NEW! H3 KIT for JOHN DEERE 425, 445, 455 GARDEN TRACTOR-4X5 for the 425 thru 455 I would ask Him If It could be adapted to Your X740 since the 425 thru 455 Have a similar Frame set Up Underneath the fender deck That would Give You true Independent control of the 3point Hitch. Personally I Just use the curl Lock Up Valve and the 3point Hitches On Board threaded Rod Depth stop Though I Probably will eventually Put On a Remote Mount Lockout Valve Kit On My X748 Not That I really need to Because I also Have a JD 2025R Compact tractor and I Can use the 3point Independently of the Loader On that tractor. But I usually have the Backhoe Mounted On it In the summer so I use the 3point More On the X748 (y)
Excellent, thanks for those links. I do have the HD lockout vale on the way now. I hadn't thought of the curl lockout though - seems obvious now that you point it out. I'll get that ordered pretty quick, and keep the rest of it mind for later, depending on how I end up using things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Nice looking rig! I'd say you stole it....lol

I like your front weight bracket, does the exhaust blow right at the bracket or is it just my eyes seeing crazy things?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Thanks. Right place, right time for once. :) Like I say, I've been happy with it so far.

I was going to clean that bracket up and paint it, but it'll go away when my bucket gets here anyway. Good eye on the exhaust, it does basically point right at it. Here's another look.

IMG_20200602_081846.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I have washer fluid in all 4 tires on my X475 and all 4 on my X748. I have no loader I just want weight for snow duty and it helps lower center of gravity in ditches. Washer fluid is cheap, but it doesn't weigh as much as rim guard. Also if you do do the washer fluid make sure you get the winter mix, even if you live where it dont freeze. If you use the summer blend and somehow it gets into the cold someone will have a bad day.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Finally got in touch with RimGuard. 8 hour drive (one way) to get my hands on some, so I guess I'll be going with (winter mix) washer fluid. I haven't looked yet, but I assume YouTube can help with that. If not, I'll follow up with a new post here on MTF!
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top