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Discussion Starter #1
So As in previous post clutch is off and I ordered oil pump gear, gasket and O-Rings. Found source of whining noise and noted it was this bearing as pointed out by the arrow. Sadly the pulley assembly cannot be serviced all for a $10 bearing I need to buy a $250 clutch! Doesn't sit well with me :tango_face_sad: On a brighter note I didn't need to do a thing with the oil pump. The original gear was just as clean and unworn as the one I removed from the package. Teeth were clean and sharp, no wear at all. I guess regular grade engine oil not as bad for it as thought. Though the PO did do very frequent oil changes so perhaps keeping the oil and filter as fresh as he did helped a lot.
So now I am kind of stuck in limbo again as I wait for a new PTO clutch assembly. Everything else on the clutch is in near perfect shape. Just that **** bearing :tango_face_plain:
 

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Is the metal pressed over the outer race where your arrow points? The bearing would come out if it that outer clutch part wasn't bent over the outer race?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The pulley is riveted with some weird rivets. I took a die grinder to them and managed to separate the pulley and expose the bearing but no matter how hard I try I cannot get the "rivets" out of the hub portion. I have tried grinding them off flush, and pounding the living s^&t out of them and they will not loosen up or come out. I guess I will have to bite the bullet. The machine is a later model so I suspect it could be from late mid to late 90's so perhaps anywhere from 20 to 25 years old. I guess if it lasted this long if I go through all this it should last another 10 years anyway. **** at my age I don't even buy green bananas anymore :D so I am thinking with a little regular care it should be fine for a long time to come. **** it lived it's whole life up until last summer when I bought it mowing close to 2 acres. I only have a half acre so it should be fine. I just hate parting with the coin is all.
Once I have it all done I will flush the cooling system, replace the coolant with fresh, I touched up a couple little rust spots on the deck and sharpened the blades, installed a new belt as well so all should be well there.
 

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The pulley is riveted with some weird rivets. I took a die grinder to them and managed to separate the pulley and expose the bearing but no matter how hard I try I cannot get the "rivets" out of the hub portion. I have tried grinding them off flush, and pounding the living s^&t out of them and they will not loosen up or come out. I guess I will have to bite the bullet. The machine is a later model so I suspect it could be from late mid to late 90's so perhaps anywhere from 20 to 25 years old. I guess if it lasted this long if I go through all this it should last another 10 years anyway. **** at my age I don't even buy green bananas anymore <img src="http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" /> so I am thinking with a little regular care it should be fine for a long time to come. **** it lived it's whole life up until last summer when I bought it mowing close to 2 acres. I only have a half acre so it should be fine. I just hate parting with the coin is all.
Once I have it all done I will flush the cooling system, replace the coolant with fresh, I touched up a couple little rust spots on the deck and sharpened the blades, installed a new belt as well so all should be well there.
Probably buck rivets which are a solid rivet smashed into place with either an air hammer or press. They fill the hole completely with rivet expanding inside it.
You have to punch them out with an air hammer or drill them out if thats what they are.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes exactly and they're much harder metal than normal. Even a carbide bit having trouble getting through it. Noticed I can get the pulley assembly separate from the drive plate. Seems the drive plate is about $65 and in my case I see no discernible wear on it. Simple cone of cast iron. I can find the pulley (my bad part thanks tot hat bearing) for $150. Anyone else ever done just the pulley? IF so did things work out or did using the old drive plate cause issues with the clutch facing material in the new pulley?
 

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Probably cheaper to get a Warner clutch off Ebay. Takes a little bit of digging to find the right combination of shaft/pulley size and offset but they range from 80-120 for a complete new clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah not really looking to re engineer the wheel. Seems the OEM worked since new, so I am thinking just go OEM again
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes I would love to have t be an electric clutch especially for ease of operation. But, again I am not into complete re-engineering. If anyone has done this and done a photo shoot or diagramming of the process with a parts list and so on I would be all ears
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I have the clutch assembly apart and I think I will be able to use some high quality hardened screws with aircraft nuts plus some loctite stud lock on them to hold the pulley back on to the clutch. I am going to get a second bearing, press it this week and put the machine together
We did have to open the riven holes up just a few thousandths to 1/4" I will post finished photos. Seemed like such a waste to throw out a whole clutch with basically no wear just because of a noisy bearing
 

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Good job duder! Glad you got it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep BUT now getting it together and to stay that way will be the challenge LOL I will update with photos as I gi and report back if it works out
 

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Yep BUT now getting it together and to stay that way will be the challenge LOL I will update with photos as I gi and report back if it works out
If you worry about it falling apart brad your bolts by holding a hammer against the head end and hitting the nut end to swell it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So it's all together. I used hardened aircraft grade allen head bolts and hardened aircraft lock nuts along with Loctite blue thread locker. I got to thinking heck the fan is held on by simple bolts no lockers and it stays there. So with the quality of bolts/nuts plus the addition of Loctite Blue I seriously doubt I will ever have an issue plus if I ever have another bearing failure I can still get it apart.
Attached is the finished project. Cost? $10.00 for one bearing and a little time spent at the drill press plus some time pressing old bearing out and new one in. Lots easier to swallow than $250!
 

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Glad you got it going. Drives me crazy when you only need a small part to fix an expensive one and it isnt available or they make it impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's not "going" yet. Far from it. The tractor is still in pieces in the garage along with a Honda HRB216 Hydrostatic lawnmower, and the deck from my Simplicity Sovereign 48" deck. Lots of projects going
 
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