Ok here is another question. About a year ago I punctured a rear tire on the 2305. I have loaded tires, so i took it to the shop. They drained the tire then gave it back to me to take to get patched. Got it plugged, and took it back to the shop so they could load it. It cost about $140 to plug a stupid tire when all was said and done! I have cleared all the nails from my yard but I started a small business using the tractor and I am sure i will get more flats. The question is, are there any solid tires out there for the 2305 or possibly could I fill them with foam and use wheel weights for ballast instead? The guys at the shop said not to foam fill.
Solid Tires for 2305?
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Why did it cost you $140.00 to plug are they made of gold.
I've had two flats on mine one in the front and one in the rear.
The plug I did my self as a temp. fix. When I bought it to the tire store he said the plug was holding and filled it for thirty dollars the front one is still holding two years later.
I don't think a new rear tire cost that much.
I've had two flats on mine one in the front and one in the rear.
The plug I did my self as a temp. fix. When I bought it to the tire store he said the plug was holding and filled it for thirty dollars the front one is still holding two years later.
I don't think a new rear tire cost that much.
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4,737 Posts
I loaded my own tires in my 2305... took 30 minutes for both... cost me $30 for fluid per tire.
I also plug-patch my own tires. Takes 5 minutes, and the patch kit costs $5, and is good for 12 holes.
So... I guess if you don't have time to do it yourself, get used to paying others to do it.
A solid tire is not a good idea for a 2305 because the tractor has no suspension. It will rattle your brains out... or the tractor's brains out...
cheers!
I also plug-patch my own tires. Takes 5 minutes, and the patch kit costs $5, and is good for 12 holes.
So... I guess if you don't have time to do it yourself, get used to paying others to do it.
A solid tire is not a good idea for a 2305 because the tractor has no suspension. It will rattle your brains out... or the tractor's brains out...
cheers!
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4,737 Posts
i didn't use the valve stem. Took the wheels off, and removed the valve core to drain "all" the pressure from the tire. 5 minutes total (impact wrench)
stood up and bounced a bit on one foot, on the side of the tire when lying flat on the ground to break the bead right near the valve stem (this is important). Placing my foot immediately adjacent to the bead / rim joint. My 250 lb weight helped to break the bead in about 2 minutes per tire.
Jammed a 1x2 between the tire and rim, to create a gap, and propped up the wheel on the "open" side, using only a piece of 2x4 (30 seconds). Only a little bit of propping up is required.
Poured 3, 10-liter jugs of plumbing antifreeze into each wheel through the broken bead. Then added 1 more jug of water... until it was "full" (this is for my rear-tires). (5 minutes each)
removed the 1x2 to let the bead relax against the rim.
With the valve core still removed, and the valve stem at the highest point of the wheel in its' propped up state, I attached an air-hose blow-gun (with push-button actuation) to the stem, to inflate the tire, and pop the bead back on from the pressure.
remove the air hose gently / slowly (to prevent fluid spraying too much). Installed the valve core, and inflated to correct-pressure.
done!
hope that helps.
stood up and bounced a bit on one foot, on the side of the tire when lying flat on the ground to break the bead right near the valve stem (this is important). Placing my foot immediately adjacent to the bead / rim joint. My 250 lb weight helped to break the bead in about 2 minutes per tire.
Jammed a 1x2 between the tire and rim, to create a gap, and propped up the wheel on the "open" side, using only a piece of 2x4 (30 seconds). Only a little bit of propping up is required.
Poured 3, 10-liter jugs of plumbing antifreeze into each wheel through the broken bead. Then added 1 more jug of water... until it was "full" (this is for my rear-tires). (5 minutes each)
removed the 1x2 to let the bead relax against the rim.
With the valve core still removed, and the valve stem at the highest point of the wheel in its' propped up state, I attached an air-hose blow-gun (with push-button actuation) to the stem, to inflate the tire, and pop the bead back on from the pressure.
remove the air hose gently / slowly (to prevent fluid spraying too much). Installed the valve core, and inflated to correct-pressure.
done!
hope that helps.
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12,162 Posts
Skip the thought of solid tires. I owned a foundry operation some years ago and we did this on our Bobcats to get around punctures. What ends up happening is that you don't get flats, but everything else breaks twice as fast from the added shock on the drivetrain.
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