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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am pretty sure that the problem is not slippage because of oil. I seem to have an inordinate amount of play in my pedals. using all the spacers, deck belt is adjusted properly (1 inch between pulleys) but it is slipping as bad as before I changed the worn out yoke. Maybe the liner is bad? Looks OK. did not have the problem until I changed the drive wheel with brand new one from dealer. Will put old one back on. Any other suggestions? OK, thats not it , put the new one back on. If I press down on the yoke,it grabs.I do not understand. Seems like it is not engaging fully. I dont want to take it to the dealer. Help!!
 

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How far down from the mowers body is the measurement of the Alum. disk?? It should be almost 4inches down. If not, it could slip.
 

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Have you been following this forum? Last poster complaining of slippage fixed his with an adjustment to the drive disc spacing. Spec. is 3 3/4" - 3 7/8" from the contact face of the drive disc to the lower side of the mower frame. The plastic yoke pivot bushings & the yoke tension spring have an effect on engagement 'feel', as does the track in the yoke itself & the roller which engages it. Some of the series had an adjustment for the the clutch cable at the yoke, or, you could have a wrong stock cable.
 

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He says it worked with old rubber tired driven wheel, didn't have problem until he installed new one. None of the above suggestions address this and I don't know.

You DID put in a new liner with the new rubber tired driven wheel?

Walt Conner
 

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Stand the machine on end, put it in gear, and turn both wheels together. Then you can see if the rubber is slipping on the disc, or if the disc is slipping on the hub. Check your spring tension also to make sure there is sufficient pressure between the disc and the rubber tire.
 

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I've heard of some folks getting a mixture of slipper & non parts together causing such too. DC 3mech says that the Snapper tool for jholding the disc while tightening/loosening the nuts has the additional function of measuring the liner. I hadn't known of that previously. As rscurtis replied, the tension spring is equivalent to the springs in an automotive pressure plate. Walt probably nailed it, some vendors sell the disc without the liner, which is available searately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Disc and liner are new, wheel is turning. Replaced the telescoping tube with one that had a stronger spring. now I cant the @^%$#! thing started! Will let you know how it went later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fail. Reinstalled new drivewheel AND liner. Set all springs to most aggressive. Runs good for 1 or 2 minutes then mass slippage. is it possible that the chrome wheel that the liner engages is out of adjustment? It seems to be fully engaged. I dont know what to do .
 

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I thought the liner, driven disc, & hub were the key parts of a 'cone' clutch similar to what was in Hydramatic 4 speeds in the 50s, but maybe the thrust washers do the fine tuning in this case. Beyond adding additional thrust washers, I'm stumped. At least that oughta be a cheap & easy try.
 

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I've got a series 21 scattered massively here still. If you want some dimensions from the questionable parts, I'll get 'em for ya.
 

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Liner should be engaging the brake drum-lookin 'hub' & the inside diameter of the driven wheel. The shiny 'plate' is more on the order of a pressure plate on a car, using the tension on the studs from the clamping force of the nuts for 'spring effect', right?
 

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Long distance troubleshooting is hard,but the fact that the mower starts out ok and starts to slip a few minutes later is odd,to me.It's hard to visually see how the parts in a RER rear axle work together,and this makes finding the defective part or adjustment.In the end, the spring to the lever on the yoke is what presses the discs together,and drives the mower. The clutch spring is one of the easiest to change and cheapest parts on an RER. I change mine whenever the Rubber disc,belt,or anything else in the rear at least every couple of years.If the lever,on the yoke, contacts the rear case when the mower is in gear and the clutch pedal is released,there could be excessive wear in the linkage,the yoke,the drive (metal) wheel. The distance from the bottom of the deck to the bottom of thr drive plate could be ,but if the engine and disc have been together for a long while they are usually siezed together and don't move readily,I would guess that wear on the clutch hub(bolted to the chain case) or the (metal) drive wheel should be considered,especially if the wheel is still the Aluminum one.
 
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