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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fineally got up to dads to pick up the power king and did some mowing while I was there

I had to install a temp gas tank as ours is full of stuff and needs to be replaced.

I think we have a 14/16 as it has a 14hp motor and 16Inch tires Our serial number is 19381

I had a sheeve lock up on me on the driver side and I will have to find a new one

Can anybody recomend a place to get new front tires, a new sheave, and I still need a new gas tank.

also can some one explain the purpose of the daul trans and how to use them proper

I also think I am missing some thing for the mower engagement as I know where it goes when your not mowing but when I am mowing it kinda just flops all over

Thanks in advance for any input

Pictures

http://larryvsa.smugmug.com/Other/powerking-stuff/13166512_bRJYB#955234647_zGW7b
 

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ih82

Welocme to a great site.

Gas tanks are easy. Remove the tank, put a section of chain (old ball brarings, nuts, bolts, even rocks will work) inside the tank, add some sort of cleaner (GUNK engine cleaner), shake the tank to remove all the loose junk, rust, trash etc. Remove the chain, wash out the tank with water to remove any loose trash, let it dry. Go to your local motorcycle shop and get some tank sealer (Kreme tank sealer). I have used this product on my Hit&Miss engines for years, have sealed orginal gas tanks from the 1920's, works great. Follow the instructions to remove rust and seal the tank. Let it dry a couple of days and you should be OK.

Pull the sheeve down and go to a bearing place and they can match the bearings and seals. Put new bearings/races in and you should be OK.

Tires MILLER tires on this site, nice helpful people.

The second trans is to slow the tractor down. It allows you to match the tractor ground speed to the job you are doing. Usually used for snow blowing or tilling ground. Get out in the yard and play with the tractor to get feel for what different transmission settings will give you different ground speeds.

Hope this helps

BUD
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the quick responce I definately want to get a new tank as this was was sealed prior and I just cant get the rust and old sealer out,

If I get a new tank and it clean I will just install it if its dirty I would cut this one open sand blast it and then reweld it back together. My dad doesnt want me to do that unless we have a replacement tank in case things go bad

Nothing is more frustraing then having to stop every 10 minutes to clear the filter while in 2 foot of grass

Thanks I will try miller for the tires
 

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My tank was nasty inside as well. I filled the tank full with nuts (no bolts or washers since nuts have all the pointy corners) then I made an agitator on an electric motor, put a little cleaner in ther and just let it agitate for hours. Went and did other stuff, then came back, cleaned it out, flushed it with hot water and it worked like a dream.
 

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Many parts on epay. Type in Economy Power King in search and lots of things come up. Always a few fellas parting out trctors there. There are diff tanks, depending on age. L-shaped, looks like a big tube, Bif flat one, covers whole engine and has spark plug hole in center, or the smaller Roundish one that bolts just behind the grill. That one would need to be later long hood models though. REAL early ones with Briggs engines have the one mounted right on engine and cut-out to clear on hood. OR, no hood, still on engine. Join the Power King forums on Yahoogroups.com for good help too.
 

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Your tractor is a 1970 and is simply known as an Economy Power King. They didn't use the number designations in the earlier years. If they had, you would have a 1614 as the tire size is always the first two numbers.
 

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if you haven't got the gas tank cleaned or replaced my grand fathers 1966 pk i'm thinking 6 " 1/8 tube l shaped for sure from the factory for a tank it was cut i guessing in the front part tank was 12: from end to long part of 45 then i think 16 " long to end of tank capped both ends and plate welded on bottom and mounted on top of engine any question i can draw up a pic for u or make u on
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Again thank you every one for the replys,

I found a used tank on ebay and its on its way.

I ordered a set of 4 x 12 tires from Miller tire last week exspecting to get them this week.

I just got a call from them asking about the width of the rim? I was so disapointed they were not shipped out allready I cancelled my order and found them at Gemplers. I paid more for the tires and shipping from gemplers but I should have them Wensday
 

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Was wondering if anyone ever replied about the missing mower deck part. I too have a "swinging" engagement handle.
 

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:thanku::thanku:
Was wondering if anyone ever replied about the missing mower deck part. I too have a "swinging" engagement handle.
the engagement handle? there should be a handle if u dont have hydro. to lower and lift deck but the engagement for pto is on the left side and you use your foot. it will swing my grandfathers swings if the hole where it goes is worn out i pto lever up and grounded it intill it fit tight. anymore question feel free to ask.

if the spindle froze up the bearings need replaced you can still get the bearings and spindle

the bearings and race are 32.00 each spindle

the spindle is around 25.00 each

front tires are around 32.00 each

plus shipping on all prices :thanku:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Was wondering if anyone ever replied about the missing mower deck part. I too have a "swinging" engagement handle.
No answers yet ,I will take a picture of mine as I welded a washer on the rod where it engages into to part that goes across the bottom of the machine to the other side where the spring attaches and it places the engagement rod in a differant place alittle tighter put still does it own thing when trying to mow there has to be a clip or something we are missing

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
:thanku::thanku:

the engagement handle? there should be a handle if u dont have hydro. to lower and lift deck but the engagement for pto is on the left side and you use your foot. it will swing my grandfathers swings if the hole where it goes is worn out i pto lever up and grounded it intill it fit tight. anymore question feel free to ask.

if the spindle froze up the bearings need replaced you can still get the bearings and spindle

the bearings and race are 32.00 each spindle

the spindle is around 25.00 each

front tires are around 32.00 each

plus shipping on all prices :thanku:
Thanks for the input,some how I missed this post I will take a picture of what I am having troubles with and what I think he is having troubles with also

So this is with mower in down position and the blades dis-engaged the engagement rod is in a secure posistion against a bolt




Now this shows the blades engaged and the engagement rod just loose and flopping around




and another of it flopping around



and where my finger is pointing is where I think I need a clip or something to hold it in place

 

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When you say loose and flopping around when blades are engaged doesn't seem right to me. When engaged the lever should be free from that bolt on the frame and pushed slightly to the left but it should not flop around too much because the spring tension on the mule drive takes up the slack and the belt gets tight. Then when you push on the lever and hook it under that bolt it should become secure and the belt is then loose. Not sure why you have a bolt though because mine is like a hook and once the lever is secured there, it's disengaged and stays there firmly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
can you show me a picture of what you feel is the clamp. Mine floops around when the blades are engaged.I am thinking i am just missing a clamp of some sorts
 

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One thing I notice in the pictures is that the lever is somewhat longer and may contribute to some of that flopping around. Also the hole in that shaft should not be elongated too much because it will cause undue looseness also. Attached here are a few pics of the stock setup on my machine. I am pointing to that hook that the lever rests against when disengaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One thing I notice in the pictures is that the lever is somewhat longer and may contribute to some of that flopping around. Also the hole in that shaft should not be elongated too much because it will cause undue looseness also. Attached here are a few pics of the stock setup on my machine. I am pointing to that hook that the lever rests against when disengaged.
Thank you for taking the time to take and then upload the pictures it is greatly apreceated


I dont have the hook you have pictured

Do you think the hook you have pictured is stock economy tractor stuff or a farmers way of holding the engagement rod?

Also I see you have hydrulics is that a stock set up as i just won one of those on ebay and all the pictures I find look differant then what I have
 

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I think the hook is stock. Economy made two versions of these tractors, one was kind of plain and there was a deluxe version that had dual trans., hydraulics, head lights etc. I happened to get lucky enough to find one with those options.:fing32:
 

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That's the first one I've ever seen with a hook. I usually see a bolt down there that the lever hooks under. I've also never seen a curled bar like that. That looks like someone did that in an effort to shorten things up a bit without cutting them off. The only differences between the standard and deluxe models were; the deluxe had lights, sheet metal over the drive train, foot brakes and electric start. You could get any of them with manual lift and single of double trannies.
 

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That is good to know. I operate my lever with my left foot and can control it pretty easily with that loop on it. It must be kind of hard to control with just the straight bar. I had just assumed all of it was factory because it looks pretty good.
 
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