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Has anyone seen ChimChim?
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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to take my deck off last week but just did not get around to it. I started at 9 this morning and dropped the deck. I have to admit it was very easy (the deck doesn't weigh much). I was able to lift the deck by myself and put it on my 10P cart and wheel it out side where I washed the top side, flipped it and scraped the bottom of the deck thoroughly. I am quickly coming to the conclusion that the deck wash-out port, does nothing! there was substantial heavy buildup on the bottom of the deck.


So after it was all cleaned up, I adjusted the lift rods and now I can lower my deck to setting #1, it doesn't go up to setting #7 (close) but the deck stops hit the frame, so #6 is as high as it goes. I readjusted my anti scalp wheels and I will now be mowing at #3 instead of #5.

I really dig the black bar on the side of the deck that acts as a lever to safely remove the tension on the idler pulley, that's smart!
 

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My deck has settings from 1 through 6 with 6 being the transport position. I adjusted my deck so that to get it to #6, it pulls up against the stops just before it clicks into place. Even at that, position #1 is practically useless except for deliberate scalping which I only do late in the Fall to get rid of the thatch.

I generally mow on #3 and raise it to #4 when the Summer heat sets in. The wife would prefer I mow it on #2.

My mower has a manual PTO clutch which is just a cable that goes down to a movable idler pulley on the deck. If/when I pull the deck, there is no real place to stow the PTO clutch cable and spring. You'd think the engineers would have thought it through and designed a place to stow the cable and spring.
 

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seems theres no way around it .... i take the deck off every time i mow now.
sure it takes 10 minutes longer, but it also takes up less space in the garage with the deck against the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Defcon,

I won't be taking it that far.. the 54 deck is a wee bit heavy for me to be doing that each time I mow (once a week usually).

:)

Once a month will suffice.
 

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That is really interesting, my Husqvarna has settings 1-7 and I cannot get below 4, maybe to 3 if I raised up the anti-scalp wheels. You were able to get enough adjustment out of the front rod to keep the deck level?

I am sort of surprised these can be so messed up from the factory.

Chris
 

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The lift handle could be used for other things besides a mower deck.
A friend of mine has a newer Cub Cadet which has a lift just like ours, handle placement and all. The snow blade is also raised and lowered by the same mechanism. Maybe AYP designed it that way, instead of the way sears snow blade lifts work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Chris,

These are not shipped with the decks mounted. And the deck should actually be slightly lower in the front the rear should be higher.

I was able to get enough adjustment. I previously thought the rear lift adjusting nuts were threaded all the way up, when in fact I just didn't look closely. There was another 4" of threads towards the top. I threaded the nuts all the way up and then backed them off so it measured 1.5" from the end of the threads to the shoulder on the nut that way each side was the same. I then ran the nut all the way loose on the front rod, and adjusted it once the deck was back on.

I am sure if I played around a little more I could make it work from 1 to 7 but I am happy now that it goes to one, that means #3 and #4 will be the two settings I use most, instead of #5. I dunno, it's a psychological thing with me...
 

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Chris,
I am sure if I played around a little more I could make it work from 1 to 7 but I am happy now that it goes to one, that means #3 and #4 will be the two settings I use most, instead of #5. I dunno, it's a psychological thing with me...
Well, I cut my lawn at 6 or 7 which is around 3" but I have some field to mow and would love to get the deck up a little higher to get over some hidden rocks.

I am going to play around with it this week.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can only go so high before the deck contacts the frame, there are "stops" integrated into the deck.
 

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I wanted to take my deck off last week but just did not get around to it. I started at 9 this morning and dropped the deck. I have to admit it was very easy (the deck doesn't weigh much). I was able to lift the deck by myself and put it on my 10P cart and wheel it out side where I washed the top side, flipped it and scraped the bottom of the deck thoroughly. I am quickly coming to the conclusion that the deck wash-out port, does nothing! there was substantial heavy buildup on the bottom of the deck.


So after it was all cleaned up, I adjusted the lift rods and now I can lower my deck to setting #1, it doesn't go up to setting #7 (close) but the deck stops hit the frame, so #6 is as high as it goes. I readjusted my anti scalp wheels and I will now be mowing at #3 instead of #5.

I really dig the black bar on the side of the deck that acts as a lever to safely remove the tension on the idler pulley, that's smart!
Bret - I have not read the directions or anything as of yet on deck removal. I cut for awhile today and used the wash out port. After a few minutes of using it I readed my had underneath and found green soup so I do not think it is doing much. I am planning on removal the deck after my next cut and cleaning it. I can remove it without screwing around with the level and settings of it correct? Mine is perfect, nice even cut and goes from #2 - #7 which I am fine with.

Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #13
Glenn,

Yep you can easily remove it without messing with any of the "settings".

All you have to do is lower the deck to the ground, grasp the black bar on the side of the deck and remove it from it's notch (it will have tension on it) release the tension, drop the belt off the engine pulley. Then start removing draft arm pins and washers, remove the sway bar, remove the front draft arm. You can leave the rear arms in place as long as you are not going to move the tractor, if you are going to drive the tractor, remove the rear lift arms as well. The deck slides out to the right side of the tractor and you need to fully turn the wheels to the left. Also if you go to raise the deck height arm, remember with the deck off, it will be under LOTS of spring pressure and no weight to counter balance it... I read that in the manual and still forgot about it, and was surprised when the lift lever went from #3 to #7 like NOW! :)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolin
My deck goes up to 11.

*twirls finger in air*
Hello Cleveland!!!

Seth K. Pyle
 

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I worked on my Husqvarna today. I had to thread in the rear lift nuts almost 1/2" from where the were to now a total around 1.25" or so. I am able to get to setting 7 which is exactly 4" high and now cut at 5 which is 3" high. I have my antiscalp wheels set at the lowest setting so I cannot go below 4 but if I pulled them off I could get down to setting 1.

Thanks a lot for the information to make this change!

I used the John Deere plastic height gauge WITH the bagger installed and found it was off 1/4" side to side. The grass truly looks like a carpet.

I also think you are right about greasing the anti scalp wheels, the shafts on mine are pretty worn at around 100 hours.

Chris
 

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I set the wheels on my YT4500 to cut at about 3" like the manual says and I can only lower the deck to #5. #6 is all the way to the top. Is this normal? It seems that if I could go down to #1 I would be digging up dirt with the blades.
 

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My deck can go down to #1 on my GT-5000 but it is in the dirt on #1 and #2. I usually cut at #4
 

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I set the wheels on my YT4500 to cut at about 3" like the manual says and I can only lower the deck to #5. #6 is all the way to the top. Is this normal? It seems that if I could go down to #1 I would be digging up dirt with the blades.
I am confused, are you saying that setting 5 has the deck, not the wheels, on the ground and setting 6 has the deck resting against the frame? If so there is something broken or in the way.

It should be obvious that the anti-scalp wheels will prevent the full range of motion of the deck. My manual states that the wheels should ride 1/4" off the ground at the desired cut height.

Chris
 

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I am confused, are you saying that setting 5 has the deck, not the wheels, on the ground and setting 6 has the deck resting against the frame? If so there is something broken or in the way.

It should be obvious that the anti-scalp wheels will prevent the full range of motion of the deck. My manual states that the wheels should ride 1/4" off the ground at the desired cut height.

Chris

No. Setting 5 has the deck at the desired cutting height (3") with the wheels barely touching. I can't lower it below 5 since the wheels prevent it from doing so. If I raise the wheels to allow it to go lower, then it defeats the anti scalp purpose doesn't it? Right now it cuts just fine. I don't see the need to go lower than 5. It just seems odd that the lower settings seem to be useless. Does anyone actually mow at 3, 2 or even 1?
 
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