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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A month or so ago, I was unsure about whether to put money into improving my John Deere 430 Garden Tractor or try to resell it.

Turns out that at least for now, I like it.

I picked up a snow plow and frame extension and we'll see where this goes.

Not sure if this is allowed or not, I'm sure moderation will keep me within bounds but I made video of it.

 

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A month or so ago, I was unsure about whether to put money into improving my John Deere 430 Garden Tractor or try to resell it.

Turns out that at least for now, I like it.

I picked up a snow plow and frame extension and we'll see where this goes.

Not sure if this is allowed or not, I'm sure moderation will keep me within bounds but I made video of it.

Just remember to unlock the blade during snowplowing, that lets you get up speed and then if you hit anything the blade will trip forward to allow it go over things that are solid. Great machine for some serious snow removal!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just remember to unlock the blade during snowplowing, that lets you get up speed and then if you hit anything the blade will trip forward to allow it go over things that are solid. Great machine for some serious snow removal!
OK Thanks!

So just so I know what you're referring to, let me know how that is done.
 

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Pull this spring pin out and lock it in the out position for the blade to unlock (snow only so you can plow quickly).

Circuit component Yellow Electrical wiring Gas Engineering
 

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I LOVE those old 430's! I'm not even a Deere guy, but I just love that aggressive front end design of them, and the diesel engines. I'm glad to hear that you're going to keep it and use it vs. selling it.
 

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If you're going to plow snow, get some weight on the rear! Wheel weights (2 each wheel suggested) plus a weight bracket & 6 weights! Depending on your driveway, chains are a good idea too...but they WILL mark up asphalt! Windshield washer fluid or beet juice in tires will also help. Weight for traction is critical for plowing. Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you're going to plow snow, get some weight on the rear! Wheel weights (2 each wheel suggested) plus a weight bracket & 6 weights! Depending on your driveway, chains are a good idea too...but they WILL mark up asphalt! Windshield washer fluid or beet juice in tires will also help. Weight for traction is critical for plowing. Bob
Yes definitely.

I've heard that if you go to an ag bar tire, chains aren't worth it but I've also heard that without chains, it won't matter what type of tire tread you use.

Opinions?

My son has a JD312 with a snowblower and this past winter I can attest that chains made all the difference compared to the turf tires he was using.
 

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For snow work I prefer HDAP's vs. Bar/Ag tires, I have rimguard in them and run 100 lbs of steel weights on each side plus my 340 lbs blading and haven't gotten stuck.......yet! I don't run chains with this setup but I have a very flat driveway too!
 

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All I've ever used was turfs w/chains, so can't comment. Bob
 
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HDAP tires such as Carlisle HD Field Trax and you won’t even need chains. I run those with four suitcase weights and can do anything even on ice. They aren’t even filled with ballast.

Like with automotive, tires make the difference, and weight usually isn’t necessary.
 

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I have seen broken axels on 430 /420 two speed locking transmissions from engaging the lo/hi while in motion,just a thought I would add to your post.
 
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I have seen broken axels on 430 /420 two speed locking transmissions from engaging the lo/hi while in motion,just a thought I would add to your post.
I've shifted ranges while in motion, but it is an art form and extremely difficult to do without grinding gears. There is no tapered lead in on the straight cut gear teeth which can make it, on a rare occasion, a minor problem when the tractor isn't moving and the hydro is stopped if the teeth are meeting dead on.

Since the gears shifted are on an intermediate shaft in the final drive and two steps away from the axles, think about how much axle torque is involved to break an axle. I know from experience that there are other parts in the final drive that will fail first unless there is a flaw in the axle shaft. The Peerless 2-speed final drive is rated for 1200 lb-ft of axle torque.

Having a 2-speed final drive is a bonus. Coupled with the Sundstrand hydro, it makes for a GT that is in a very limited and potent class. JD has 3 tractors in that class, MF has 6.

Like rwmeyer above, I've only ever used Carlisle Multi-Trac C/S turfs with chains plus ballast on my 2wd GT. When your GT can pull a 6000 lb truck out of a 1.5' deep snow filled ditch when working from a snow packed street without spinning the tires, why bother looking for tires with better traction?

I wouldn't use ags on a snow duty GT for any money. It hasn't got enough weight and the frustration isn't worth it.
 
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I tried new HDAP tires on my 425 in hopes of not needing chains. They were loaded with 100#’s of wheel weights and 200# on the 3 point. They were ok on the flat, but not adequate on the steep hill in front of my garage. The chains are significantly better, but they do scratch your driveway.


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I've shifted ranges while in motion, but it is an art form and extremely difficult to do without grinding gears. There is no tapered lead in on the straight cut gear teeth which can make it, on a rare occasion, a minor problem when the tractor isn't moving and the hydro is stopped if the teeth are meeting dead on.

Since the gears shifted are on an intermediate shaft in the final drive and two steps away from the axles, think about how much axle torque is involved to break an axle. I know from experience that there are other parts in the final drive that will fail first unless there is a flaw in the axle shaft. The Peerless 2-speed final drive is rated for 1200 lb-ft of axle torque.

Having a 2-speed final drive is a bonus. Coupled with the Sundstrand hydro, it makes for a GT that is in a very limited and potent class. JD has 3 tractors in that class, MF has 6.

Like rwmeyer above, I've only ever used Carlisle Multi-Trac C/S turfs with chains plus ballast on my 2wd GT. When your GT can pull a 6000 lb truck out of a 1.5' deep snow filled ditch when working from a snow packed street without spinning the tires, why bother looking for tires with better traction?

I wouldn't use ags on a snow duty GT for any money. It hasn't got enough weight and the frustration isn't worth it.
I suppose tires and weighted rear would contribute to broken axels,
Your explanation makes sense.thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
HDAP tires such as Carlisle HD Field Trax and you won’t even need chains. I run those with four suitcase weights and can do anything even on ice. They aren’t even filled with ballast.

Like with automotive, tires make the difference, and weight usually isn’t necessary.
I saw the versa turf I like the tread pattern. Any experience with those? Also, this won't be for snow only, it will probably make its rounds in the woods/trails as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have seen broken axels on 430 /420 two speed locking transmissions from engaging the lo/hi while in motion,just a thought I would add to your post.
I've never done that. It is not really that easy of a shift when stationary even.
 
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