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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished my snowblower rebuild in time for snow. I thought you might like to see the results. I completely stripped it,all parts blasted to bare metal,POR15 primer with POR15 Hardnose paint for topcoat. All new bearings and seals in gear box and new bearings on auger and drive sprocket shaft. New hoses for lift cylinder.I used stainless steel cable for the chute,so it should last quite awhile. I replaced the 40 tooth sprocket with a 34 tooth and new chain. I hope it works ok this winter. Any suggestions for any type of coating for the chute to keep the wet snow from sticking?
 

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Have Dog - Will Travel
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It looks great, I hope that was a labor you enjoyed, and your results prove it.

Congrats, and thanks for taking pictures. It might be an inspiration for others.
 

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Replacing the 40 tooth driven sprocket with a thirty four tooth sprocket will reduce the amount of available torque to the auger and center paddle and require you to slow down further as you are sppeding up the gearing train, but time will tell.

About the spout and wet snow, you can purchase some slick sheet material from Farm Tec and fasten it with some grain elevator bolts or simply coat it with Fluid Film lubricant from the local JD dealer.

leon
 

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3K & Yet So Little to Say
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Great job and thanks for the pics. As for the chute, I put some car wax on it and then periodically give it a shot of Pam cooking spray or silicone spray.:fing32:
 

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# 2 on the car wax and pam or other cooking spray, ( store brand is usually cheaper). I waxed the the inside of the blower housing, outside housing and auger blade last winter , didn't even wipe the stuff off and didn't have any sticking problems. of course on occasion some will stick on the inside corners of the housing but after shut down, I usually can just push it out real easy with an old corn broom. good luck and be carefull out there this winter.
Jerry in Wisconsin
 

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Replacing the 40 tooth driven sprocket with a thirty four tooth sprocket will reduce the amount of available torque to the auger and center paddle and require you to slow down further as you are speeding up the gearing train, but time will tell.

leon
I was also wondering why you changed the sprocket to a 34 tooth - what was your reasoning behind this?

PS: awesome job on the refinish - looks fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
kudu63 , I read on a couple forums that it helps increase the distance the snowblower will through the snow. People who have done this seem to be pleased with the results. It does take a little more power , but I don't think it will bother anything to much,as we usually don't get more than 4"-6" of snow.
 

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That is a beautiful job you did. I hope it works as well for you as it looks because it looks SWEET.

P218
 

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GANG GREEN GIZMOW KILLER!
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I was also wondering why you changed the sprocket to a 34 tooth - what was your reasoning behind this?

PS: awesome job on the refinish - looks fantastic.
Im hoping he meant a 38T sprocket.:dunno:


I could only fine a 37T in my search and scrapped the whole plan over 1 tooth.
 

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That is a great restore job. :thanku: for sharing the details and pics!:thThumbsU

I like spraying the chute and impeller area (I have a two stage) with silicone vs Pam or even FluidFilm. Pam and FF are great for other uses but for me they stay wet and are easier to be scrub off by the passing snow. The silicone dries to a super thin and slippery coating. After a couple of coats with time to dry between them it holds up fairly well to snow abuse. Then during the season shoot it again from time to time when it is dry and snow free and let it dry. I think blowing while it is wet will rub the silicone away faster than if it has dried.
 

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THE TRACTOR HUNTER
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Wow, nice job. I hope you don't find some gravel hiding underneath while blowing snow and ruin that pretty pain job.
 

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USMC
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Your blower looks great. I like to use a good paste wax. slkpk
 
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