go to snappers web site and see if they've got a parts manual for it, that should have the wiring diagram for it, and from that you should be able to figure out why it's not working properly.
Snapper Z1402K won't start - electrical suggestions?
I have replaced the battery, clutch switch, and start switch. I have verified the clutch has resistance and that the switches on the oil, seat, joy stick, and brake are functioning properly. The fuses are not blown. The solenoid is working.
The engine cranks only with the clutch switch ON. With the clutch switch OFF, it is dead other than the warning beep.
I suspect something (a bare wire perhaps?) is acting as a kill switch but I'm open to other suggestions. I've run out of things to replace or test.
Thank you.
The engine cranks only with the clutch switch ON. With the clutch switch OFF, it is dead other than the warning beep.
I suspect something (a bare wire perhaps?) is acting as a kill switch but I'm open to other suggestions. I've run out of things to replace or test.
Thank you.
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Thank you for the suggestion. I have the wiring diagram, the parts manual, and a trouble shooting guide (although the one they sent is not for this model), hence the replacements and tests. I'm treating this as a hobby at this point since there is nothing left that is obviously wrong with it.
Are there any other safetys on the machine, like a seat switch, or hand brake? If so, how do they affect the starter working?
And, are you sure you have the right pto switch, as you mentioned you replaced it, and now it seems to work the opposite of how it should (on the safety side).
And, are you sure you have the right pto switch, as you mentioned you replaced it, and now it seems to work the opposite of how it should (on the safety side).
The PTO switch is identical and both the old and new work the same. Both test out properly 1-2 and 3-5 in on position and 3-4 in off position. I could try putting the old one back in but I had the same problem with the old switch.
The switches are the seat (NC), the brake (NO), the PTO/clutch, the start/ignition, the joystick (up or down makes or breaks circuit), the oil switch (NC), and of course the solenoid. I agree it should not crank with the clutch switch on and should crank with the clutch switch off.
The safety switches are wired to ground out the spark to prevent ignition if the circuit is complete. The safety switches break that ground circuit to allow ignition.
Thank you for helping to think this through.
I have attempted to attach the electrical trouble shooting guide the factory provided but it is likely for a different model since my PTO switch and start switch have different configurations. The testing is the same once you figure out where they moved the number or letter for the contact.
Mine is the 14 HP model.
The switches are the seat (NC), the brake (NO), the PTO/clutch, the start/ignition, the joystick (up or down makes or breaks circuit), the oil switch (NC), and of course the solenoid. I agree it should not crank with the clutch switch on and should crank with the clutch switch off.
The safety switches are wired to ground out the spark to prevent ignition if the circuit is complete. The safety switches break that ground circuit to allow ignition.
Thank you for helping to think this through.
I have attempted to attach the electrical trouble shooting guide the factory provided but it is likely for a different model since my PTO switch and start switch have different configurations. The testing is the same once you figure out where they moved the number or letter for the contact.
Mine is the 14 HP model.
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From looking at the first electrical diagram, I would suggest that you test all the pins for the PTO switch when it's connected, as some connections to it may be reversed, as in connected to power when it should be ground and vice versa.
OK, I'll retest and verify each connection. Thank you.
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