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my 1974 snapper has lost a lot of speed. In the 5th position it now goes about as fast as it used to in the 2nd position. I read somewhere to put a dab of oil on the drive wheel. I did that and it did not improve. My drive wheel is pretty chewed up. There is a posibility my motor is not reving as high as it used to as well.
 

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If your driven disk is chunked out you really should replace it. Also make sure that the plate that tells you what gear you are in didn't get knocked out of place. There are two blots that allow adjustment to make sure the shift lever is showing the correct location of the driven disk on the drive disk.

The above is not worded is correct snapper lingo, I hope it helps more than it confuses.
 

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One other thing to consider would be is what version the clutch is. The early snappy version or the later smooth clutch version? If you have the smooth clutch you will need to replace the Teflon liner as well as the driven disc. A worn out liner will allow the driven disc to slip to much. I can not remember when Snapper went to the smooth clutch version exclusively.

picture below


LATER
 

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Rather than guess,I'd get a service manual & adjust things to spec.That is After you get a replacement drive (rubber lined) disk.Also that age--I'd say it's the old style clutch.Either way-you never put oil of any kind on said wheel,causes it to really slip-think about it.And yes it's possible your eng.is running at a lower rpm,but you should be able to hear that from how it ran before.If not,,get a "tiny-tact"--easiest way to set rpm.BTW,eng.is normally set @ 3200-3600 rpm at wot.
 

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Sorry for the late post,I've been fighting "photobucket"for several days.This illustration,is from an earlier series,and since we don't know yours,it will have to do.The flexible cable (outer) is usually clamped near where the "inner"cable attaches to the throttle linkage.this clamp may have loosened.dis-connect there,and move the engine bracket ( where the inner cable attached to the linkage).This way you don't bypass the governor,( by moving the arm on the carb.) and chance over-revving,the engine. move the throttle arm to it's limit,and you should be able to hear any difference.
 

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Hello. If you are sure that the engine speed has slowed down you might check the throttle linkage where it attaches at the carburetor as DC 3mech proposed. The picture below shows the linkage for a BRIGG & STRATTON. Loosen the clamp and adjust accordingly. Check first to see if the clamp has come loose on you. The yellow lined circled area is where the kill wire is attached. The throttle cable is to the right. One other aspect is to check the shift lever adjustment. The diagram below shows that the shifter plate has two slotted holes that can be used to adjust the speed of the mower. Make sure that the adjustment bolts have not come a loose on you. Another thought is that the internal shift linkage is worn out and not shifting the driven wheel properly.

HOPE THIS HELPS.
 

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Here's an illustration,from the "series 1,2,&3 service manual.This is where the rubber disc should be adjusted to,as suggested by NOVAZ27.Do you still have a "1" speed?
if it's that far off.the rubber disc might be in the center hole(N) in the 1 position
 

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Hello. Another area to check would the shift gate & linkage as shown in the picture below. That shift gate can wear causing the chaincase, the one that slides, to be positioned incorrectly or not allowing full pressure to come to bear on the driven disc. Wear on the shift gate can be accelerated by the roller sleeve on the chaincase end to become frozen in place. The frozen roller now slides thru the gate instead of rolling thru. PB Blaster or similar product + some pliers frees the roller up. I use some preused 90/140 wt. hypoid oil to lube that sleeve. It seems to stay in place longer than regular lubricating oil.

MORE IDEAS COMING YOUR WAY.
 

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