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Discussion Starter #1
I have an older Snapper Comet (I think it’s a 268X built around 1983) it is equipped with a (seized) Tecumseh 8HP engine (model #VM80 150041E) and I want to replace the engine, since this old rider / mower is built better than anything out there today!

Now I have worked on cars for years, but small engines and this old RER are pretty new to me, so here goes...

I have been told that Tecumseh or B&S 8-12 HP should work, however do these engines all use the same size output shaft (length, diameter etc…)? or do I need to pull off the old engine first and measure it etc…any tips there?

How about the location of the output shaft, in other words do they always have the same center point to the bolt pattern on the engine etc…and do these small engine all pretty much use a standard bolt pattern?

From my quick evaluation last night it looks like there are some pulleys etc…on the shaft, however it would nice to know how are they attached. Can I remove them with a gear puller, unbolt the engine and just take it off – it doesn't look complicated and I'm confident I can do the job but I'm curiuous what am I getting in to and don't want to learn by trial and error. LOL! Since the current engine seems to be pretty old getting specs on so I can even determine a new suitable replacement has been is a bit tricky. I'm not even sure it's the original engine? I have pics if it helps at all. Not real sure what else beside the carb. / exhaust locations are important - again small engines are all new to me.


Anyone who can help with some tips and/or advice I give a sincere THANK YOU!
 

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NJ_lou
Sorry that I can't be of any help but I'll be paying attention to any replies that come in. I have a 280812BE that was gifted to me minus any engine so I'm trying to figure out a replacement.
 

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MTF Junior Poster Esq.
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Usually the bolt mounting pattern is the same or pretty close between either one. Crank shaft lengths and diameters are all over the map though. Measure the one on your dead engine and buy accordingly.
 

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While there are some variations, the most predominate crankshaft size is 1" dia. by 3-5/32" long. Some 8 hp - thru 11 hp B&S have "stepped" down end on crankshaft but not a lot. Bolt patterns for like size engines in various brands usually match, going from 8 hp to 11 hp and up are a different set of holes usually pre-drilled on Snapper but I wouldn't say for sure on that old a Snapper. One thing sure, if you go to 12 hp B&S or larger, you will need to snip off the top of the Left "fender" on your old Comet.

The engine should lift off with the Drive Disc on it. Loosen the two Allen Screws in the hub of the Drive Disc ***'y. It may be a little hard to pull off. I have a special puller, you may be able to unscrew the aluminum drive disc by taping it counter clockwise CAREFULLY on the webs with a pc. of wood then use a regular puller on the remaining hub.

Walt Conner
 

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I've had them take weeks of soaking to get off. My 308x has holes for the briggs and techumseh. I've had both on there. Seems like there was a pretty standard set of holes that was on all of the snapper's I've had but none of the ones I've had predate around 1979 or so.


T.C.
 

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All the advice that I would have given is here already. I would like to add though that the new Snapper RER's seem to not have changed all that much over the years... I wouldn't hesitate to buy a new one if I were shopping. Buying a new motor for your old Snapper is just as wise. I would buy a Briggs and Stratton and I would make sure to get one with the I/C designation (Industrial/Commercial) that have a cast iron bore in an aluminum block.
 

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"I've had them take weeks of soaking to get off."

Two things here, see my post above about removing the aluminum drive disc separately. Also, IF you do this fairly often, take an old disc drive hub, remove the aluminum disc, weld a washer over the end opposite the threads with a 1/2" nut welded to that, on old style aluminum drive discs, there are threads exposed on the bottom in the center hole, clean crap out of these threads, screw the modified hub into these tight, run a 1/2" bolt in to push the drive ***'y off. Newer steel faced drive disc ***'ys are not made this way.

IF you happen to have an air compressor, you can use a blunt bit in an air chisel to drive on the back side of the HUB, works wonders for removing anything stubborn.

Walt Conner
 

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I've been looking for a potential candidate to replace the engine on my old Comet 30. However, locating a vertical-shaft 6-8HP Briggs is nearly impossible. I've been trying to get the one I currently have running (146000 series), but it's nothing but trouble.

Any idea where I could locate a new engine on the cheap? I'm not dying for one, but I'd like to have a functional machine.
 

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Don't know what the situation is in your area but here, we have a free "Bullet Board" radio program on for 20 minutes each morning, things to buy, sell or trade. Several near by towns do also. I would advertise for an engine, broken down mower with an engine or check the local one man type lawn mower repair places for an 8 OR 12 - 12.5 hp B&S engine. Large shops generally are not co-operative.

Walt Conner
 

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"I've had them take weeks of soaking to get off."

Two things here, see my post above about removing the aluminum drive disc separately. Also, IF you do this fairly often, take an old disc drive hub, remove the aluminum disc, weld a washer over the end opposite the threads with a 1/2" nut welded to that, on old style aluminum drive discs, there are threads exposed on the bottom in the center hole, clean crap out of these threads, screw the modified hub into these tight, run a 1/2" bolt in to push the drive ***'y off. Newer steel faced drive disc ***'ys are not made this way.

IF you happen to have an air compressor, you can use a blunt bit in an air chisel to drive on the back side of the HUB, works wonders for removing anything stubborn.

Walt Conner
Never thought of the air chisel. I've pulled the alluminum disk off before. That helps a ton.

I've had more problems with the all steel ones than the aluminum.


T.C.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE: Pulled the engine off today, which was pretty simple. I suspect somebody swapped the engine / had this apart at one time since the allen screws came out fairly easy and with a little WD40 the pulley / drive plate slide right off. I was shocked! :fing32:

Now I'm just not sure what to use as a suitable replacement, any input or suggestions?

I'm thinking of going with a Honda GXV340A2DA33 (however from what I can gather the rear vertical bar on the right might have to come off for room)...it looks they use this same engine on new models, so I'm hoping for minimal mods.to get it installed.

Since I'm not concerned about being able to stand it on end, does that open my choices since carb and exhaust location isn't so critical?

Thanks for everyones input - I appreciated it earlier today!
 

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just did the swap myself ( mine had a 8hp Briggs )

used a Kohler 12.5

as said above just trimmed the left fender as hair

all bolted right up with pulley and disk

all in all took about an hour to do very easy swap
 

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just did the swap myself ( mine had a 8hp Briggs )

used a Kohler 12.5

as said above just trimmed the left fender as hair

all bolted right up with pulley and disk

all in all took about an hour to do very easy swap
For some reason, Snappers originally equipped with Kohler 12.5 and 14 hp engines had a reinforcing plate between the engine and mower frame. Not sure why, heavier I assume. Not unusual for Snapper RER to crack around mounting holes with larger B&S engines even.

Walt Conner
 

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MTF Junior Poster Esq.
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I had an old SX95 Deere RER that had a blown Kawasaki in it and replaced it with a Briggs 12hp which fit perfectly. I just now remembered that and I have a Kawasaki out of a Deere 175 and a really worn out 10hp on my older Comet. Hmmm. Of course I also have a couple of briggs 11hp's which would probably be the sensible swap.
 

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Never thought of the air chisel. I've pulled the alluminum disk off before. That helps a ton.

I've had more problems with the all steel ones than the aluminum.


T.C.
Is the top part of the disc threaded also or dies it just come off with enough help??.......Thanks...............Wooly
 

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not threaded

i just whacked with a dead blow off it came

there is a keyway in there....thats where the set screws are
 
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