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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1963 L that I bought in a package deal. It smoked way too much after about one minute run time. After some other checks (compression check, leak-down etc.) I pulled the head and decided to pull the jug for further evaluation. Sure enough it needed bored. After boring .020 over new piston, rings, etc., it was time to run. But, no change on the blue oil smoking problem after about a minute running. Ran it up and down some hills for 45 minutes. No change on the smoking . Pulled the jug again to double check but nothing popped out so I replaced with new rings again! Started but with the same blue smoke after about a minute run time again. Maybe a crack letting oil to be sucked into the combustion chamber! The delay in smoking for about a minute after starting has to be a clue. Thought maybe someone has an idea where to look. Thanks
 

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Got me on that one. Sounds like the rings may not be seating. Any idea what the rings are made of?...Cast iron, chrome, moly? In the car world, we found that moly coated rings seated the fastest.

Possibly oil is getting by the valve seals. What engine do they have?
 

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You replaced piston, rings, etc....I am assuming you put new valves in also?..I think if you had a crack that it would effect your compression..try another leak down test after the work you did and see what that yields
 

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Gravely1964
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My wonder is if the drain holes in the block are plugged. Extra oil in the block would make smoke since its suppose to be dry sump. Other thought is intake lifter not draining extra oil back out the lifter. I've run into both on L's. Second is an easy check by removeing valve cover. Other means takeing the motor or jug back off and see if you blow air inbetween the motor and trans. Or atleast get a wire threw one or both holes
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got me on that one. Sounds like the rings may not be seating. Any idea what the rings are made of?...Cast iron, chrome, moly? In the car world, we found that moly coated rings seated the fastest.

Possibly oil is getting by the valve seals. What engine do they have?
Just what I thought at first but it should not be passing that much oil by now. Top chrome, middle cast and these are pretty standard for Gravely. New valve guides and valves. We are a automotive machine shop so having this happen has to be unique to Gravely maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You replaced piston, rings, etc....I am assuming you put new valves in also?..I think if you had a crack that it would effect your compression..try another leak down test after the work you did and see what that yields
Yes, new valves and guides. We thought so too about the compression which led us thinking it might be an oiling issue. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My wonder is if the drain holes in the block are plugged. Extra oil in the block would make smoke since its suppose to be dry sump. Other thought is intake lifter not draining extra oil back out the lifter. I've run into both on L's. Second is an easy check by removeing valve cover. Other means takeing the motor or jug back off and see if you blow air inbetween the motor and trans. Or atleast get a wire threw one or both holes
We might be on to something here because we seem to think it maybe an oiling issue due to the fact it runs for 45 seconds before it erupts.I was going to try the valve cover removal. That and the relief valve maybe plugged. As soon as I get back at it we will definitely try those mentioned. Thanks much.
 

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Gravely1964
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Only other thought maybe too much oil spraying outa the rod holes. But try easy before going complicated
 

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Does your engine have a little drain plug below the oil pump? See how much oil comes out cold and then try it after you start it and it runs for a minute or so. Drain immediately.
This should tell you how much the engine sump is holding.

The only problem I have with the idea that the sump is holding oil and causing the smoking is that on the old low volume oil system, there were no oil drain holes on the lower sump back to the transmission case and the oil only got out of the sump through the vent holes up high; in other words the sump always has oil in it. This is why there was a drain on the back.
Just another suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does your engine have a little drain plug below the oil pump? See how much oil comes out cold and then try it after you start it and it runs for a minute or so. Drain immediately.
This should tell you how much the engine sump is holding.

The only problem I have with the idea that the sump is holding oil and causing the smoking is that on the old low volume oil system, there were no oil drain holes on the lower sump back to the transmission case and the oil only got out of the sump through the vent holes up high; in other words the sump always has oil in it. This is why there was a drain on the back.
Just another suggestion.
There is no drain below the pump but there is a boss cast into the CC. Maybe I could drill and tap that and install a plug? Do you have an idea how thick the casting is there? Another thought, how about using the dipstick to check oil level before and immediately after shutdown? Like I said, this was a package deal and I new nothing about what if or anything was done to these tractors. Thanks
 

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Gravely1964
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Only was a drain mid 58 and older. As from the low volume oil pump it was a wet sump. Newer was pretty much dry sump. Theres some oil from working motor but mostly drains back into the trans
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Only was a drain mid 58 and older. As from the low volume oil pump it was a wet sump. Newer was pretty much dry sump. Theres some oil from working motor but mostly drains back into the trans
Then could I have an older block bolted to a newer transmission?
 

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Gravely1964
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If its low volume oil pump it has a drain. Check out my vid on this. Its very possible the block was changed.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
If its low volume oil pump it has a drain. Check out my vid on this. Its very possible the block was changed.

Interesting! The video explained a great deal. It looks like I might have to pull the jug again to verify all this. Thanks everyone for the information. I will get back and let you know what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I separated the motor and transmission to check the oil drain back holes. They were open and clean. Not sure what to check now. Anything?
 

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Gravely1964
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Other thought is the breather clear in the oil cap? Never really saw your findings on the intake valve tappet haveing oil above it or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Other thought is the breather clear in the oil cap? Never really saw your findings on the intake valve tappet haveing oil above it or not?
Yea the breather cap is clean and it makes no difference in the amount of smoke with it on or off. I have the motor setting on the bench now and I will check inside the valve covers today.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I checked the valve covers. The exhaust was normal with some white grease(assembly) on the valve tip and push rod but the intake was flushed clean on the valve tip and the cavity was wet with oil. I was going to check this will running but forgot.
 

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I had the same issue on one tractor after a bore job. After tearing it down the issue I identified was the ring end placement on the piston was not in the position required by the repair guide. Rotated them to the correct position and after a few hours of run time the rings seated.

Had not seen this discussed in this thread.

RB in RI
 
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