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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so i got my new engine for the old mower tonight, installed, etc..... drove for about 45 minutes, maybe an hour. manual says 2 hours then change oil, and nothing about throttle. anyway i was riding along and then poof, a huge cloud of smoke. so i shut it down, and the engine still spins alright (albeit it actually has compession). so i drained the oil and it was kinda black and thin. I put more in and it started up, then after a few minutes the smoke was very little.

i still want to change it one more time anyway.

i put about 1.5 quarts in to start, the oil being so clean it was hard to tell exactly the oil level, but i could see the level in the filler and it looked plenty high.

so those being the details, thoughts?


edit: so i went out a few minutes ago and started her up again. no smoke that i could see, not even on throttle up? seems alright, must have been too hot?
 

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Andy,

We always do an oil change 5 hours after break in. Back in the old days you would run non detergent oil for the first 5 hours, then put in detergent oil. Non detergent oil is hard to find now so most engine manufacturers say to simply drain the oil after 5 hours of use.

I work on lots of commercial equipment and I tell the guys to run detergent oil for the first 35 hours, then switch to synthetic if they so desire.

Yes you can run synthetic oil in air cooled engines, but it must still be changed at regular intervals.
 

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When I broke mine in I did it this way.

10 minutes at idle to warm up
5 minutes and 1/4 throttle
5 minutes at 1/2 throttle
5 minutes at 3/4 throttle
5 minutes at full throttle
10 minutes at idle to cool down

That engines has given me no problems except for the exhaust valve needing re-seating because the carb was out of whack I think.

oil changes are key in the break in, I did one right after the break in and one after the next hour of use.


:fing32:
 

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The only thing you are breaking in are the rings! The best way to break in rings is under a good load, look any dyno shop breaking engines that cost 50 times what ours do. They do several full load pulls bring the engine to full RPM, if you break an engine soft and sweet it will not do as well as one broken in properly! F1 engines that cost over $200,000 each are broken at extreme RPM and load. All of our engine have flat tappet cams, go to any cam manufacturers site you will see they insist on 1,500 to 2,000 RPM or the cams will fail quite early. I have a 383 full Lunati Pro Mod roller small block Chevy in my boat that I have $5,000 in just parts, it was broken in with four pulls to 5,000 RPM it is now four years old and run quite hard and runs absolutely mint. I have have many race engines over the years, this nonsense of breaking an engine easy it total BS!

I change oil at 0ne hour, again at five hours and again at fifteen hours. From that point on twenty five hours, believe me my current and all of my past engine hve seen high RPM's. My street/strip engines have turned over 8,000, I have never blown any just treated them well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, i got some sae 30 today that the book recomends and changed the oil for the second time actually, ran it 3/4 throttle for about an hour and no problems. engine has good pull compared to the old worn out 11. I'll just keep an eye on it and it should be good now..
 

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The only thing you are breaking in are the rings! The best way to break in rings is under a good load, look any dyno shop breaking engines that cost 50 times what ours do. They do several full load pulls bring the engine to full RPM, if you break an engine soft and sweet it will not do as well as one broken in properly! F1 engines that cost over $200,000 each are broken at extreme RPM and load. All of our engine have flat tappet cams, go to any cam manufacturers site you will see they insist on 1,500 to 2,000 RPM or the cams will fail quite early. I have a 383 full Lunati Pro Mod roller small block Chevy in my boat that I have $5,000 in just parts, it was broken in with four pulls to 5,000 RPM it is now four years old and run quite hard and runs absolutely mint. I have have many race engines over the years, this nonsense of breaking an engine easy it total BS!

I change oil at 0ne hour, again at five hours and again at fifteen hours. From that point on twenty five hours, believe me my current and all of my past engine hve seen high RPM's. My street/strip engines have turned over 8,000, I have never blown any just treated them well.
You can't compare an F1 engine or any race engine for that matter with small engines. Those race engine don't have to last 200,000 miles (or 2,000 hours), and often get a new set of bearings and rings after every couple of races.

You can't even begin to compare the valvetrain either. The valve train stresses are much much lower in these small engines due the fact that the spring pressure and max operating RPMs are much lower. Why do you think that Briggs and Stratton and Honda (probably others as well) can get away with completely plastic camshafts or just plastic cam lobes?

The best way to break in a small engine that you care about is to keep varying the RPMs every few minutes from say 1/2 to full governed speed and keep the load on it varied as well.
 

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a fellow who did kart racing engines told me to use diesel oil for breakin becuase of it's additive package. I can still get non detergent oil . It's used in other applications
 

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When i break in a new engine, I run it full throttle, full load for a couple hours, then change the oil, and go with it.

When i break in a rebuilt engine, I run it 1/2 throttle for 5 minutes no load, then full throttle full load for an hour, and change the oil.

When I broke in my GX-200 race engine, I was running hard plas-moly rings, and I ran it fresh off the build, idled at 3000 for a minute, then held it @ 6500 for 5 minutes under load, until the header glowed...then i leaned it out and ran it to the deisgned in 8100rpm redline a few times doing speed passes...then changed the oil.

I had a bearing problem from oil loss from a bad case gasket a few months later, and when i pulled the engine apart, the rings, piston, and bore were perfect...
 

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When i break in a new engine, I run it full throttle, full load for a couple hours, then change the oil, and go with it.

When i break in a rebuilt engine, I run it 1/2 throttle for 5 minutes no load, then full throttle full load for an hour, and change the oil.

When I broke in my GX-200 race engine, I was running hard plas-moly rings, and I ran it fresh off the build, idled at 3000 for a minute, then held it @ 6500 for 5 minutes under load, until the header glowed...then i leaned it out and ran it to the deisgned in 8100rpm redline a few times doing speed passes...then changed the oil.

I had a bearing problem from oil loss from a bad case gasket a few months later, and when i pulled the engine apart, the rings, piston, and bore were perfect...
wow 8100, our guys maxed the 160s @ around 6000. I never really got that high.
 

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Im running a Billet Rod with Clevite77 inserts, Hardened crank, Cryo Treated 160 flat top piston, 4lb Billet Flywheel, 4* advanced timing, 1.3:1 Rockers, hardened push rods, 24lb springs, Stainless Valves, Undercut and swirl polished with a 3 angle valve job, ported head, Head is a milled down Old style 160 unit, 12cc chamber, Tillotson YF200 full race carb, Robertsons 3 stage pipe with RLV silencer. Deck milled to 0 popup. Unknown cam grind.

I can still recoil start it due to the compression release, but its sketchy...has a massive amount of dynamic compression. I run it on 93 octane and 10% nitro.

It makes, rough figure, considering the parts, about 24hp on Gas. Valves float @ 8100. With better springs, It would probably not rev much higher, the cam is the limiting factor.

I havent cranked it in 3 years now, I had an incident where the throttle hung on a speed pull...Doing the math, I was doing about 70mph. I nailed the brakes, kart jumped sideways, and I ended up going bakcwards...I floored it...snapped the gold link chain and broke some teeth off the sprocket. Ended up about a foot from a mailbox.
 

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thanx guys that helped alot
For what it,s worth on all my engines [gear box etc] that do not have pressure oil system [just splash] I put magnets in them OR attach to dip-stick and you be surprise how much material there is on them when you change oil--- It,s better to have those pieces on magnet then floating all around inside engine--Just what I do
 
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