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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up a moldboard plow with an attached sleeve hitch for $50.
Of course, the hitch is for a Bolens or something like that. It is one of the wide ones (12" between the arms). I'm thinking I should be able to modify/fabricate something to basically turn it into one of the small 1 point frames used on the 3112.

My 3112V has the upper lift tube/plate, but I think it is the earlier chain style (no hole for lift rod).

So, my questions:

Does anyone have a drawing or diagram of where the hole for the lift rod goes? Can I just drill it or should I weld on a doughnut shaped piece of pipe for reinforcement?

I know I can order most of the rods/nuts/yoke from Simplicity, but they seem pretty expensive for what they are. Any suggestions on what/where I can get cheaper alternatives? I'm sure I have or can get most of the pins, bolts, and nuts from the hardware store, but the lift rod and the yokes are a bit more specialized. Any luck finding/fabricating alternatives?

Thanks!
 

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'Simple' MTF Member
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I would simply use a rod in the lift with a chain to the plow. You want your plow to float anyway, and the 3112 has a solid steel lift rod to the rear lift...which is why the early machines used a chain to the plow. Later machines with the rod/clevis from the lift to the sleeve hitch had a cable to operate the lift. Both versions allowed the plow or a cultivator to float. A properly adjusted plow pulls itself into the ground until level...usually around 5" below grade for a 10" plow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well that will make it quite a bit easier.
Since mine is a hydro lift I thought I'd use the 'float' setting on the lift when using the solid rod/clevis setup.

I also have an implement that looks more or less like a middle buster or potato plow. Would that be generally used floating as well, or would some hydro down pressure be usable? If that is the case, I will probably want to fab up some sort of rod system in addition to the chain lift.
 

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That tater plow should function the same way...angle/adjust it so it pulls into the ground at the appropriate depth. The only thing I've ever needed down pressure for, was to use a box blade. Then, you find that these machines don't really have enough weight to get good down pressure, and you lose drive wheel traction or break your lift rod. Float for garden work =]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, that certainly simplifies (pun intended...) life.

Anyone happen to have a diagram/pics/specs of the lift rod and chain length and mounting setup? Is the rod just drilled and held into the lift assembly with a bolt or pin?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mr. Green,

Thanks!
I'm planning on going by the metal scrapyard tomorrow morning, so hopefully they have some chain and bar stock.
 
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