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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1992 Simplicity GTH 20 . The rear PTO bearing was making a noise so upon dissasembly i noticed a piece of the transmission where the the bolts go through the rear PTO carrier bracket and into the transmission a piece on the trans just fell right off. My question is - Is there pressure in the rear Transmission? I don't want to spend alot of money on this so can i just fill the hole with RTV gasket maker type material or should i use JB Weld to fill the hole? i just want to keep the fluid from coming out for now.
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I'd clean the area with brake kleen, let it dry thoroughly, then smear a liberal amount of JB weld on the part and the case and press it back together. Just don't let it blob into the case. Let it cure good.

I don't think you will want to rely upon that threaded part to hold much force. It looks like one of three attachment points and if those are under much stress, the JB Weld may not have enough grip to stand up to it. That could lead to the other two failing the same way.

I do not believe that the trans case contains pressurized oil, it being mostly a reservoir of oil, so the JB Weld will likely plug the hole OK.

Others may have different or additional thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd clean the area with brake kleen, let it dry thoroughly, then smear a liberal amount of JB weld on the part and the case and press it back together. Just don't let it blob into the case. Let it cure good.

I don't think you will want to rely upon that threaded part to hold much force. It looks like one of three attachment points and if those are under much stress, the JB Weld may not have enough grip to stand up to it. That could lead to the other two failing the same way.

I do not believe that the trans case contains pressurized oil, it being mostly a reservoir of oil, so the JB Weld will likely plug the hole OK.

Others may have different or additional thoughts.
Thanks for your response! What i think happened is the bolts that go through the carrier bracket might have got loose from the Tiller jumping up and down thus causing the break in the trans. Those holes in the bracket have an oblong shape allowing for PTO shaft adjustment. I think it's a poor design. I wonder if i could just get shorter bolts and not have any bolts going into the trans housing? Maybe tack weld the bolts going through the carrier cross member braket so they don't come loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I spoke with the guys that sell welding equipment and they didn't think i could weld that type of material. I have heard of this type of metal referred to as " White Metal". I think it's to close to the other half of the Trans and gasket to mess with. Not sure...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the Welcome. Sorry if my post displayed large pics instead of thumbnails. I tried to use the "Insert Image" button then i attatched and uploaded . Then it looked like i had the option to display thumbnail or full pic. I pressed the button for "Thumbnail all" but it didn't post the way i wanted it to. Then i couldn't find the "Preview" button so i gave up after fighting it for a half hour and just clicked post.
 

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So if the aluminum trans bolt holes are not bearing the support of the plate, what does support it?

Unless I don't understand it, from the pic it looks like there are 3 bolt holes in the trans that hold the support plate. My guess would be that the one that busted out, may have come a little loose, allowing the plate to slightly flex right and left, with the two other bolts acting like an hinge point, and letting the movement hammer that loose bolt until it broke out the casting. The bolts on the left have mutual support whereas the one on the right has no other support and likely subject to any flexing pressures exerted by the use of the implement.

Sort of wondering if you could fabricate a steel cross beam between the frame rails to support the bottom of the plate rather than through bolting to the trans casting. ??
 

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I am not sure of what is involved in this repair, but it looks like the hole, if leaking, will keep the level of the fluid below the full mark. The plastic tube should have about 1 inch of fluid showing. If so the repair should be fairly strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks guys for all your suggestions, i would agree with your ideas. So i plugged up the hole with those tacky tire repair plugs and cleaned up the area as best i could so water wouldn't get in the transmission. I used some parts cleaners and degreasers and then rinsed it real good. Then i let it dry good and used some J-B Weld 5020 psi strength Steel Reinforced Epoxy. I waited a few days then applied again. I did this several times. The pictures below are with 2 coats, i put on one more just to be sure. I'm almost ready to bolt the Rear PTO Clutch back in but i would really like to replace the clutch first but i can't seem to find one so i created another post with anyone that can help me find an alternative clutch. the original Clutch has a sticker that says Warner 5210-20 and the clutch part is a Simplicity part# 1685493SM. I will try and post again when i find a new clutch or decide to put the old one back in. I'm going to attach the Tiller and see how things hold up. Thanks again Bill.....
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