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Simplicity 6516 Connecting Rod

2356 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  CityFarmer
I recently purchased a 6516 and mowed with it on a 2 acre yard. Halfway through it started running rough and had little power. Did a compression check and one cylinder had 0 psi. Pulled the head off and found that the piston doesn't move when you turn it over so I'm assuming that the connecting rod broke (it does move pushing it by hand so it's not seized). The previous owner already replaced the connecting rod once so I'm wondering what could be causing the problem and if I should bother replacing it again.???

My other question is if I just replace the whole engine what are my options? My father inlaw has an older 6216 with good engine but bad drivetrain, would that engine be the same? What other engines can replace the stock engine?

Thanks,
Jason
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The engine from the 6216 should bolt right in your tractor. Any briggs opposed twin motor would probably fit.
The 6517 used a Kohler engine so I would bet a Kohler magum series would also be a bolt in.
I picked up the 6216 from my father inlaw. It needs a seal on the output shaft but I am having trouble finding a part number online. Does anybody have this number or where I can find it?

Briggs and Stratton site shows the part on the diagram but no part number on the list.
The 6216 came with a briggs 16hp engine.

Make: Briggs & Stratton - 4 cycle, air cooled
Model No. 402707
Horsepower: 6216: [email protected] rpm (11.9 kW)
Cylinders: 2 Horizontally Opposed/Cast Iron Sleeves
Bore: 3.44 Inches (87.4 mm)
Stroke: 6216: 2.16 Inches (54.9 mm)
Displacement: 6216: 40.15 Cu. In.
Crankshaft: Vertical
Battery: 12 volt, 39 amp. hr. Auto Battery
Governor: Mechanical, full throttle no load setting 3400 +/- 100 rpm, Idle speed setting 1350 +/- rpm
Electrical System: Electronic Ignition
Unregulated 3 amps DC
Charging Circuit and 60-100 watt AC


What you are looking for should be in here.
https://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=402707-1246-01
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Thanks. I couldn't find the sump oil pumps parts diagram before. Would it be better to get the bushing/seal kit or just the seal?

It says the bushing kit needs a special tool, any idea what that tool is?

Thanks
If it was me, I would probably get the bushing and seal kit. If I recall correct, the special tool is a press, Or press fit. Some of that stuff you can press it in with a couple good size washers and a threaded rod. Been a long time since I've worked on one. I would ask around for sure if they press fit or not. Otherwise, any other special tool needed doesn't come to mind.
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Got the seal and gasket replaced and the other engine installed on my 6516. Started mowing for awhile and shut it down...went to start it again and it wouldn't start.

At this point I can hear the solenoid click but it seems like the starter isn't getting enough juice to turn the engine enough to start. I can turn the engine by had so I know it's not locked up. I also swapped the starters.

Any ideas on how to trouble shoot this problem?

Thanks
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What's the battery voltage reading? how make sure the ground is a good ground. If battery cables are old, replace them.

Another thing you can try. Which I would be very careful. Is use a set of jumper cables. Touch battery + to + (big wire) on the solenoid. Could be bad battery cables, could be bad ignition switch also.
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The voltage at the battery was 12 volts. I put the jumper cable on each starter and both were very slow. So i either didn't have a good enough contact on the starters with the jumper or both starters are bad.
The voltage at the battery was 12 volts. I put the jumper cable on each starter and both were very slow. So i either didn't have a good enough contact on the starters with the jumper or both starters are bad.
Measure the voltage while jumping with the cables. The battery may have a surface charge of 12 volts but not enough depth of charge to crank. These motors take a lot of starting current.
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