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I don't know what it is, but this will help everybody see what you're talking about:


 

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That is your oil slinger/dipper.

With the rod installed correctly on the crankshaft, the dipper will be oriented on the lower rod bolt , pointing down to the bottom of the case.
 

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Hum, that would have been my guess, had Red not already answered the question. But, I can say looking at the picture, I didn't expect it to look like that, I expected something more like a small spoon shape, a dipper/slinger.
 

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Some of those oil dippers double as a locking tab for the rod bolts too,you fold the metal over the side of the hex on the bolt heads with a screwdriver or punch,to prevent them from loosening..which would result in total destriction in a very short time!..

I still dont know how small engines manage to run so long with no oil pump or oil pressure,especially with an aluminum rod riding on a hard steel crank!..and with non detergent oil and a crankcase full of sludge to boot!..a minor miracle,in my opinion!..
 

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True, but don't use non-detergent oil in the crankcase. The only non-detergent oil I use is 30 ND in my manual 2-speed differential on the GT6000.
 

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There is about 2" of oil in the sump, and the dipper will come down about 3/4" from the bottom of the engine...when the engine is running full tilt there is actually very little oil in the sump, as much of it becoems vapor/mist. Some gets carried up the cam gear...some stays in the breather box...


Some tecs use a flat dipper, some use the metal pointed dipper, some use a little spiked dipper, but they all work fine.

On my race Honda GX, the Billet aftermarket dipper has a scoop on the end, and a tiny hole that runs up to the bearing surface/babbit bearings...forced bottom end lurication...

But it twists up over 7000 rpms, so it needs it..
 

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II'll stick with non-detergent 30W in old motors I do not know what has been used for oil in the past,just in case they were run on it all along and are sludged up--it would do much more harm to use a high detergent oil in such an engine and loosen all that dirt and crud up and send it throughout the motor..
We "killed" a few nice running motors in antique cars we got running ,by using multi-weight detergent oil in them--soon after we changed the oil,they started clattering,the lifters first--then they started smoking badly,and a couple of them seized up..bet they would still be running if we had used non detergent oil..sometimes all that sludge is all thats sealing the rings and seals up!..

But I always use detergent 30W,or 15W-40 Diesel rated oil in engines I know are clean inside,if I have had them apart and cleaned them good inside..when there is NO oil filter,its imperative to keep it clean!..how air cooled VW's lived with just a screen for a filter,and having only a 2-1/2 qt. oil capcity baffles mee too!--just about every one I did oil changes on looked like they had roofing tar in them,not motor oil!..yet they seemed to run forever anyhow!..they reccomended straight weight oil too,adding multi-weight oil to an old VW usually resulted in regret..
 

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Right, I recall back in the 60s when oil/lubs were in the early stages, the advice was to not change from an ND to a Detergent in old cars, for the reasons noted.

I thought, and it is true in most cases, one would have to be running an antique engine to have one that was broken in on ND oil. I also stick with single weigh 30 for air cooled engines, but do understand that the synthetic multi grade oils can hold up to the high temps of air cooled engines. Interesting, I have a low cost OHC Honda engine on a push lawn mower, and it has printed on the air cleaner, "Use 10W30", no mention of synthetic, so I do. So far no problem.
 
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