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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it was a rainy day here and I finally got around to completing the upgrade to my sickle mower,, I'm not a sickle sharpening/rivet kinda guy, I'd prefer to just replace a knife if it gets chipped/dull or broken. So off to TSC for some parts,,, new wear plates, higher arched knife clips, sickle sections and the bolts/nuts specially designed to convert from rivets. I played around with it a bit and it works great. The only modification needed to the new parts were the wear plates and hold down clips next to the attaching bolts of the drive, they need to have the corners clipped to clear the drive unit mounting, otherwise a bolt on modification and it can be taken back to original if ever desired. I was tempted to go all out and make a longer cutter bar, but I really dont use the sickle much so I stuck with the original length.
 

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I Love All Color Tractors
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Nice. I like it.

Roughly, how much did the parts run you?
 

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and the bolts/nuts specially designed to convert from rivets.
Cool. Does that mean they're extra tight tolerance, or something else?

The great thing about rivets is that they expand to fill the hole, so no chance at all of anything working back and forth, which I expect was a major design consideration when people first started building the things. I bet with modern manufacturing techniques, it's not hard to make hardened bolts which would work in that application. I wouldn't mind getting some of those myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cost, it wasnt to bad,, I just checked the TSC site as I have had most of the parts for a few months but looks to be 12 bux for 50 of the special bolts/nuts, 10 bux for a pair of wear plates, 10 bux for a pair of the arch clips , and looks like the sections are 12 bux for a pack of 10, and I put some new carriage bolts in the rock guards,,, so I should cost ya around 76 bux not including your states cut for the mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cool. Does that mean they're extra tight tolerance, or something else?

The great thing about rivets is that they expand to fill the hole, so no chance at all of anything working back and forth, which I expect was a major design consideration when people first started building the things. I bet with modern manufacturing techniques, it's not hard to make hardened bolts which would work in that application. I wouldn't mind getting some of those myself.
The bolts are special in the sense they are designed for bolting on the knife sections and have been around for 20 years atleast,, the head of the bolt is "ribbed" to bite into the knife bar and the nut is a locking type and they will provide a rock solid mount for the knife,, everytime. I use to use these on the combines harvesting and over a few thou acres I dont remember one ever coming lose when properly installed.
 

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Nice. I realy got to get out and rebuild mine. the side skids with the bolts attached broke on mine. So I need to eather get new skids, or make something that will work. Ive been thinking of a way to offset the sickel to one side. For ease of going under trees, and fences.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice. I realy got to get out and rebuild mine. the side skids with the bolts attached broke on mine. So I need to eather get new skids, or make something that will work. Ive been thinking of a way to offset the sickel to one side. For ease of going under trees, and fences.
I dont think it would take a whole lot of engineering to offset the cutterbar,, I took a quick look at mine and honestly I think all one would need to do is move the drive head over and rebolt/rivet it on the knifebar, and drill 2 new holes/tap the mounting holes for the drive unit and boom its offset. But Im not sure how the machine would handle,, my concerns would be,,, will it now want to pull to the offset side, and will the drive unit castings hold up to the constant side pull, espicially if you would bump something solid on the end of the cutterbar,,,, maybe it would be nothing I dont know?
 

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I rather not take a chance with a sickle bar attach. I'd just weed wack around the fence, Gravely does make a walk behind weed wacker.
 

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I gave up using mine cuz they kept "torque rolling" in the oposite rotation of the PTO whenever I'd make a turn, then it would snag on anything they could grab.
I need to try it again since I'm joining a group to try cultivation elephant grass on my rural property as a source of pelletized bio-fuel to degassify into heat & hydrogen. And yes, I'll be using my Gravely powered hammer mill....
 

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I gave up using mine cuz they kept "torque rolling" in the oposite rotation of the PTO whenever I'd make a turn, then it would snag on anything they could grab...
The Bush Hog does this to me. I don't know how it would work with the sickle bar, but I put a cinder block on the front of ours. It really helps with the front end jumping up whenver you take off. It really helps whenever your going through the high stuff (around 8 feet high). The cinder block helps push the front end down and topple over the big stuff.

Matt
 
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