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Sickle bar mower refurbish

13440 Views 83 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  CHEVY&SEARS
So I got these 2 mowers a few weeks ago, my ad on Craigslist really payed off. I got the 2 mowers, The Custom, the ST12, a buncha mule drives and random Sears parts and 3 3 point hitches for $400.

Model # 842.260020
Serial # 86260 and 97522

Neither of them are in working order but both are complete. As you can see in the first 2 pictures, one of them is severely twisted and broken but it's actually in better shape as far as rust goes. So all it's good parts will be switched to the other one.

The shaft and mounting assembly is much better on the twisted one, so it will be switched along with the rest of the pulleys.

Everything is coming apart surprisingly easy. This pulley came off with minimal effort with a pulley puller.

Took the arm off that makes the knives go back and forth off to make sure its crankshaft isn't frozen. It's not.

I assumed the mule drive gearbox's would have oil in them since they have a drain plug, but they don't. The grease? is hardened into a brick. Are they suppose to have gear oil in them?
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Be carefull with gear oil. Your typical 80w90 and rearend gear oils are Hypoids wich will attach any yellow metals in the bearings. Just make sure what your bearings are made of and you shoulb be ok. If you wanted you could use a 00 semi- fluid grease. Its primarily used in tractor trailor axles. hit me up if you have oil abd lube questions. As thats what i do for a living. Lol
Yes but even some gl4 are hypoids. To explain hypoids have a sulfur additive to aid in the shock loading of tje gears or constant start and stop. Sulfur will corode and pit yellow metals. I would stick with a grease but a 00 actually is more like a fluid. Some of the new 75w90 ep ls gear oils would work to and are mostly synthetics. Im actually running a full synthetic 75w90 ep ls in my transaxle on the rat rod build. Should help with extreme preasure and heat.
Ep stands for extreme preasure. Try . Go synthetic my friend. you will gain extended drain intervals. Better temp ranges and lower pour points.

Chevy& sears. SORRY for thread highjacking you!
Chevy&sears- if the grease is hard there is a giod chance soneone before you mixed different typws of grease in it. Many different greases will not mix and causes all sorts of problems. Basically the thickenersi the grease are not compatable. I can explain if needed.
Definately sounds like there was a reaction in the two greases. Some 75w90s do and some dont. Its more important to find out what materials you are working with. It would be of benefit to use a good hypoid for that application due to shock loading. I doubt there are any yellow mwtals in ir but unless you check its hard to say looking at the pics. If you have a good auto parts store go look at their qt bottles of gear oils. Royal purple should be a good synthetic and about $17. A little pricy but the synthetics will last a lot longer in the abuse you will most likely give it. :)
Looking at the application any good EP LITHIUM Grease #1 or #2. I am partial to Mystik JT-6 High temp. It is good for most any aplication except marine use. It will give you a bit more temp range than the multi purpose. It is good for -10 to 325degs. I would try to find a #1 but a #2 would be fine.
Lookin good. That grease should work good for you.
Good idea starting out with new belts. I did the same thing with the drive belt on the ratrod build. Better off changing it while you have it apart then after you have it back together and trying to use it.
I am lucky and have a great old school hardware store that stocks a ton of belts and plleys and tractor parts. I took the rat down there on a trailer to match up belts. But now i know what sizes to order online might be cheaper. Hopefully they will exchange for you.
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