Sickle bar mower refurbish

13179 Views 83 Replies 17 Participants Last post by CHEVY&SEARS, Oct 18, 2013

CHEVY&SEARS

Discussion Starter · Jul 15, 2013

So I got these 2 mowers a few weeks ago, my ad on Craigslist really payed off. I got the 2 mowers, The Custom, the ST12, a buncha mule drives and random Sears parts and 3 3 point hitches for $400.

Model # 842.260020
Serial # 86260 and 97522

Neither of them are in working order but both are complete. As you can see in the first 2 pictures, one of them is severely twisted and broken but it's actually in better shape as far as rust goes. So all it's good parts will be switched to the other one.

The shaft and mounting assembly is much better on the twisted one, so it will be switched along with the rest of the pulleys.

Everything is coming apart surprisingly easy. This pulley came off with minimal effort with a pulley puller.

Took the arm off that makes the knives go back and forth off to make sure its crankshaft isn't frozen. It's not.

I assumed the mule drive gearbox's would have oil in them since they have a drain plug, but they don't. The grease? is hardened into a brick. Are they suppose to have gear oil in them?

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4Suburbans

· #2 · Jul 16, 2013

I assumed the mule drive gearbox's would have oil in them since they have a drain plug, but they don't. The grease? is hardened into a brick. Are they suppose to have gear oil in them?

Do you plan to do the entire refurbish without consulting the manual?

CHEVY&SEARS

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 16, 2013

Well, I restored my 18/6 all the way down to rebuilding the transmission without the manual. But I did look for what's suppose to be in the gearbox in the manual and could not find it.

el_simonito

· #4 · Jul 16, 2013

Reading through the lubrication section of the manual shows that every season you're to add enough all purpose grease to fill the box. If you get a chance, can you take pictures of the mule drive and the idler pulley assembly? Mine came with this critical piece, so I'm having to recreate it from pictures!

Sent from the MTF Free App

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el_simonito

· #5 · Jul 16, 2013

Sorry, I meant to say that mine came withOUT this critical piece.

CHEVY&SEARS

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 16, 2013

Huh, I didn't see that. That just doesn't seem right. Once the gears eat up the grease in the gears nothing will push more into them. Seems like oil would be better...

I can get you a picture today. It shouldn't be hard to recreate.

el_simonito

· #7 · Jul 16, 2013

CHEVY&SEARS said:
Huh, I didn't see that. That just doesn't seem right. Once the gears eat up the grease in the gears nothing will push more into them. Seems like oil would be better...

I thought the same thing. My thought is that as the gear box heats up, it causes the grease to turn more into an oil, but that may be flawed. I wonder if you could put gear oil in there? Are the bearings sealed? It looks like there is a seal between the two halfs, so perhaps you could just substitue gear oil for the grease?

Also, thanks for providing the photos! I'm in desperate need of my sickle bar right now, and can only wait to use it!

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CHEVY&SEARS

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 16, 2013

That could be true which might explain why the grease in both boxes looks like it melted into a block. There is a gasket between the 2 halves but I don't know if the bearings are sealed. If they are i'm doing gear oil.

I hope these pictures help. If you need anymore let me know.

Hard to tell but the arm is 5".

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cjilge

· #9 · Jul 16, 2013

Be carefull with gear oil. Your typical 80w90 and rearend gear oils are Hypoids wich will attach any yellow metals in the bearings. Just make sure what your bearings are made of and you shoulb be ok. If you wanted you could use a 00 semi- fluid grease. Its primarily used in tractor trailor axles. hit me up if you have oil abd lube questions. As thats what i do for a living. Lol

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el_simonito

· #10 · Jul 16, 2013

Thanks for those photos! That is exactly what I am looking for! If I do have any questions, I'll know who to go to for answers!

I'm going to model this up so that I know that it works. I'm due to get my last belt in by the end of this week. I still havn't gotten the cutting bar to rotate back into cutting position, but I have a solotion for that....:14_6_5:

Also, thanks for the hints on the lubricants! I suspect that the bearings are steel, but I'm not so sure about the gears. My bet is that they are brass, and you are correct in warning about the use of typical gear oil. I believe that GL-1 or GL-4 are more acceptable, as opposed to the GL-5 that is more prevalent right now?

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cjilge

· #11 · Jul 16, 2013

Yes but even some gl4 are hypoids. To explain hypoids have a sulfur additive to aid in the shock loading of tje gears or constant start and stop. Sulfur will corode and pit yellow metals. I would stick with a grease but a 00 actually is more like a fluid. Some of the new 75w90 ep ls gear oils would work to and are mostly synthetics. Im actually running a full synthetic 75w90 ep ls in my transaxle on the rat rod build. Should help with extreme preasure and heat.

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el_simonito

· #12 · Jul 16, 2013

Never heard of 75w90 ep ls. I tried googling it, but all it came up with was ls 75w90. Can you explain more? I'm really interesed!

cjilge

· #13 · Jul 16, 2013

Ep stands for extreme preasure. Try www.tulco.com . Go synthetic my friend. you will gain extended drain intervals. Better temp ranges and lower pour points.

Chevy& sears. SORRY for thread highjacking you!

cjilge

· #14 · Jul 16, 2013

Chevy&sears- if the grease is hard there is a giod chance soneone before you mixed different typws of grease in it. Many different greases will not mix and causes all sorts of problems. Basically the thickenersi the grease are not compatable. I can explain if needed.

CHEVY&SEARS

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jul 17, 2013

Don't worry about hijacking it! This is great info and it saves me from asking you so many questions. Thanks a lot.

I like the idea of the semi fluid but would really like to use a gear oil. The gears don't look brass but that doesn't mean they aren't. Does the 75w90 have hypoids?

The gearbox in the first picture definitely had mixed grease. Different colors and was hard. The second was still soft, uniform color. Maybe over time with heat and gravity it formed that brick shape.

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CHEVY&SEARS

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jul 17, 2013

el_simonito said:
Thanks for those photos! That is exactly what I am looking for! If I do have any questions, I'll know who to go to for answers!

I'm going to model this up so that I know that it works. I'm due to get my last belt in by the end of this week. I still havn't gotten the cutting bar to rotate back into cutting position, but I have a solotion for that....:14_6_5:

No problem! If you don't mind, could you post the number for all 3 belts on here?

I don't think that's a good solution!

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cjilge

· #17 · Jul 17, 2013

Definately sounds like there was a reaction in the two greases. Some 75w90s do and some dont. Its more important to find out what materials you are working with. It would be of benefit to use a good hypoid for that application due to shock loading. I doubt there are any yellow mwtals in ir but unless you check its hard to say looking at the pics. If you have a good auto parts store go look at their qt bottles of gear oils. Royal purple should be a good synthetic and about $17. A little pricy but the synthetics will last a lot longer in the abuse you will most likely give it.

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GB in MN

· #18 · Jul 17, 2013

I wouldn't worry about using grease in the gearbox, the old Gilson have a 90 degree GB that drives the transaxle and they are packed with grease, had a 1972 G16 GB opened this past spring cleaned out the old grease and repacked it. The GB and gears looked like new I would be concerned about 80/90 leaking but the 00 (cornhead grease would not leak.

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CHEVY&SEARS

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jul 19, 2013

I have decided to just put grease in it. If that's what the manual calls for and it's still working (and the gear teeth look great) after 30 something years it should be fine now.

Any grease suggestions cgilje?

cjilge

· #20 · Jul 19, 2013

Looking at the application any good EP LITHIUM Grease #1 or #2. I am partial to Mystik JT-6 High temp. It is good for most any aplication except marine use. It will give you a bit more temp range than the multi purpose. It is good for -10 to 325degs. I would try to find a #1 but a #2 would be fine.

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