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Like you all said, this G.A.S. happens fast. First I just wanted the tractor. Now a plow pops up and of course it’d be handy to have. Then I see a front PTO with adapter kit, and that sure would be nice to have too. Then I could get a brush cutter and really do some damage. But wait, the cost of that front PTO and brush cutter might be the same or more than just buying a walk behind with a brush cutter. Plus I wouldn’t have to mess with swapping stuff around if I also had a walk behind. But that front PTO seems too good to pass up. What to do, what to do. All I wanted was something to mow with. That was it.
Yep. G.A.S. :)

BTW you want that front adapter for other things. A walker is better for brush hogging anyway, but with that front kit, you can get a small deck into the tight places you can't reach with a belly deck. To really go hog wild, you could get a gang reel mower to mount on either the front of the walker, or the adapter on the rider. Of course, you'd need the gang mower. Better start looking. . . . .

Did we mention that we're all enablers?
 

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kyavion, I checked the air filter baseplate on my '72 816 today. Guess what, no hole just like yours. I can't say where it should go either since the tractor (a non running $200 special) is sitting like it was when I picked it up, and there is no breather hose at all. The breather hose on the '75 816 *does* press fit into a hole on the underside of the baseplate.

Maybe someone with a 72-73 816 can take a look and let you know where their breather hose winds up.
 

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The breather hose on my '74 is like Dave's. I suspect somebody swapped parts around.

For the short term, I wouldn't worry about it. You can run it with that hose disconnected. You could stuff a bit of fiberglass or something in the end of the hose to keep crud from getting in there.
 

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With a serial of 15896A that would mean the tractor does have an LSD axle. LSD's were no longer installed mid-way through the 73' MY, around the 18xxx serial.

On the axle hubs, the one set screw doesn't look to be a set screw, instead it appears to have been replaced by a common bolt. You'll want to replace that bolt witha proper set screw as bolt don't have the necessary properties to function as a set screw. Verify that both set screws are tight down on their axle keys, otherwise you'll wear out the key ways in the hubs. The in/out play of the rear axles is normal, and I wouldn't be concerned the separate play of the wheel in all directions. The bearings on the axles are very robust and bathed in oil.

Rick
 

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I don't have time to read every thing in this thread at the moment. I did read your concerns about the 30 Bush hog deck taking longer to cut what you need to cut. I think you might be surprised . The walking tractors are nible to use the 30 inch deck will get places you can't get to with bigger decks. I have about 1/2 acre of yard that it cut up with garden fire pit trees etc. I can cut it with my professional 12 and a 40 inch deck in about 2/3rds the time it takes with a 46 inch deck on a rider . My professional 12 walking tractor has steering brakes and is nearly as maneuverable as a zero turn
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Thanks for the info about the walk behinds. I may have to look into getting one down the road.

I picked up that snow blade yesterday. I stopped by Richard’s in WV since I was close by, and he said it looked looked like all the blade parts were there and it looked good to go. I showed him a pic of the breather hose, and he didn’t have much to say about it. He said he had only seen a couple Onan’s before. Another person there said it was just a vent for combustion gases, and that they probably starting attaching the hose to the air filter for emission regulations. He recommended just getting a vented cap for it.

I guess I lucked out with getting the LSD. Thanks for the info for that.

As far as the set screw, how would the end be different from a bolt? Is it something I can shape with a grinder?

Now how about these wheel weights? They sure are pricey. Do 15lb weights really make that much of a difference? What about just added weight on top of the blade, or just attaching weight to a rod that goes through the front PTO hole?
 

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It's not so much weight on the blade that you need, but weight for the front end of the tractor so the steering wheels do not lift off the ground as readily. Rather than wheel weights, you can look for a front mount weight rack and then you can be creative with what you use for the weight (still $$$, probably). I think there is clearance for the plow with the rack installed (perhaps others can confirm).
 

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Discussion Starter #89
So I haven’t had a chance to use my Gravely on my property yet. Things have been really busy lately, but after Thanksgiving I’ll have a chance to do a final cut and push some dirt into some open trenches that were for septic and electric.

From reading online, I’m a little concerned about running today’s gas in the Gravely, and ethanol free gas is hard to find. I purchased some of this: https://www.amazon.com/DRIVEN-Carb-Defender-Fuel-Additive/dp/B00G3DRNZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=61745179371&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2ITuBRDkARIsAMK9Q7PDB3QVi0QTJXtCc7BRxv-ec3M88ZjfJyYKqSY7Drm4VUdrJE92yKEaAnK-EALw_wcB&hvadid=274839110832&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9014439&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=79229154207856587&hvtargid=kwd-400329814074&hydadcr=12164_10197800&keywords=driven+carb+defender&qid=1572959691&sr=8-1

Any other recommendations? I plan on adding a small trickle charger to the battery. What about a magnetic oil heater? Is that a good idea too?
 

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The fuel additive sounds interesting. I should probably be using something like this myself. An oil heater might be a good idea too if it gets very cold where you are, and you're planning on having to use the tractor for plowing snow the next morning, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
It’s been awhile since posting, and I hope everyone is doing OK during the current difficulties we’re all facing. I did a little work on my 816 today—greased all the fittings, new mower blades, new belt, adjusted the PTO lever, adjusted the brake, checked the fluids, new plugs, etc. I took the gravely for a test drive and mowed my yard at home. It cut and ran pretty well. The motor seemed to backfire a little here and there, and when I shut the mower off after running for about 45 minutes there was smoke coming from the engine area. I couldn’t tell exactly where the smoke was coming from, but man that engine gets hot! Is that smoke and occasional backfiring anything to be overly concerned about?

On another note, I seem to recall a thread where someone recommended swapping the 6v coil for a 12v coil. I thought I had saved the thread, but I can’t find it now. Is this a good idea to do?
 

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The backfiring, and overheating is likely due to engine timing, and/or carburetor adjustment. Points not gapped correctly will result in the timing being off. Clean the points, and check to be sure that they are gapped at .020 thousandths. Then adjust the high, and low (run/idle) needles on the carburetor by running the engine, first at idle, turning the needle clockwise (close) until the engine begins to stall, then backing it out until the engine is idling at it's highest rpm., then bringing the engine up to running speed, and repeating same with the high (run) needle. These adjustments are preliminary, and may require additional fine tuning, but they should have you heading in the right direction. If it's still backfiring, the carburetor may need to be taken apart, and cleaned.



12 volt provides more spark, so it should be more efficient. Ignition point life is shorter though. Although Onan 6 volt coils are said to crack, and fail, I have been lucky with mine, so I haven't bothered changing over to 12 volt. I did replace the 6 volt coil with a 12 volt on my other 816 (the phantom, a work in progress), but only because the resistor was missing when I brought it home. I can't say anything either way yet about 12 volt, since I just got it running, and now I need to check it for a stuck valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Thanks for the tips. I will play with the carb and take a look at the points. If needed, any suggestion about where to purchase new points online?

As far as the 6v coiling cracking and failing, what happens when that occurs? Will the tractor be stuck in a field, or will it be able to limp home?
 

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boomers_influence, and Onanparts.com are both members here, and sell Onan parts (including points). You can locate them entering their sigs in the "members" section look up window, and send them a PM (click on "start conversation").

As for the old coils failing, when they do go, they go, period. Mine has yet to give me a problem over the many years that I have been using my 816.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Thanks. It will probably be several days before I can get to it due to work and another project that popped up, but I’ll post back what I discover.
 

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Yes, those are them. The T head on the right is the high speed (run) needle, and the screw head on the left is the low speed (idle) needle. Adjusting the low speed needle isn't bad using a long screw driver, but the T head is always "fun". There used to be a special tool which made this adjustment a lot easier, but they are long gone for the most part.
 

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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
I adjusted the idle speed screw and the mower runs better at idle now, whereas before it would stall out at full idle on the throttle. The high speed screw was originally slightly less than 1/4 turn short of being what appeared to be closed. I say “appeared” because any more than about 1/4 turn clockwise and I feared I was going to snap the T off the screw. At full throttle as I adjusted the screw fully clockwise by that almost 1/4 turn, I noticed no change in the sound of the engine. I then backed it off from its original setting by about 1/4 turn and noticed a very slight intermittent hesitation, so I moved it back to its original position as shown in the pic. I was afraid to back off the t screw any more to the point of stalling because I was afraid I might snap that T off and then be stuck.

I’ll take a look at the points when I’ve got more time. They sure aren’t in a super accessible location either.
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
I also have a little trouble shifting into gears 2 and 4 sometimes. When it does shift into those gears it goes real easy. The rod doesn’t appear to be binding. When I topped off the fluids on Sunday I used 5W-30, and I had to add about a quart.

Any suggestions on the difficulty getting into gears 2 and 4?
 
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